Proper PV tension

[PEB]

I am on my third GG and have noticed that all three have had no preload on the pv. The pover valve is able to freely flop around for at least the first third of its travel. On my previous bikes I took the right side cover off and tensioned the rod with the adjustment so that there was a tiny bit of tension on the rod and thus the powervalve, it didn't seemed to change the power delivery just got rid of a tiny little top end rattle particularly at lower RPMs. Was I unwise to do so? Is there suposed to be a little slack in the system? My bike was serviced by a factory guru shortly before I bought it, is this not an inspection point?

Lastly do the newer bike come with a stud that protrudes from through the left powervalev bearing? My bike has one that will function as a nice little handle but it looks naked in there without a nut on it, I am quite confident there is not a nut missing it just looks odd without one.


Paul B

 

[GMP]

Paul,

On my '03 the low end improved a bit taking the slop out as you describe, as the PV started out slightly open. Never saw a drum valve with a long stud, all of mine have been flush.

 

[gasgasman]

My '07 has the treaded stud on the left side also.

I was thinking, you could put a nut on there with a counter weight to change the power valve timing.

 

[PEB]

Glen was your new one loose as well?

 

[GMP]

No, my '07 was adjusted correctly.

 

[AZRickD]

My '05 EC250 is a little bit flappy ("bootstraps" at low RPM when I'm cruising down forest roads a couple of gears too high).

I'll have to open it up and check it out.

 

[PEB]

Rick, there was an explanation of how to adjust it on the Talkingsmack board I think. It took me several trys to get it right both times I did it. Keep us posted on what you find on yours.

Paul

 

[GMP]

I first did it and made that post back in '03. Rick, its normal for the PV to rattle a bit especially in the conditions you describe. Remove the right side PV cover, the actuator plate should be in contact with the stop bolt head. If you try and move the actuator plate by hand, there should be just a tiny bit of preload holding it against the bolt.