Questions re 2011 GG 300

[n_green]

Pulled the clutch tonight to modify the basket etc. Couple of questions regarding values since the only information I can find is the spreadsheet on this site and the 2006 workshop manual...

First of all I've measured my clutch springs and they range from 43.70mm to 43.95mm. The workshop manual says the minimum length is 45.7mm and the limit is 44mm. Does this mean I need to replace these springs?

Secondly re-tightening the main clutch basket nut. The workshop manual says 40nm with loctite. The spreadsheet on this site says 60nm. In the 2011 manual I see a listing in the torque table "Primary nut - 40nm". Which one is correct?

Same question re flywheel nut. Workshop manual says 40nm with loctite. Spreadsheet says 70nm. 2011 manual torque table - "E-start sprocket screws - 60nm". As I have the E-start which one of these torque specs is correct if any?

(Side note, pulled the flywheel and stator to look at the condition of the crank seal. Wow there is a lot of gunk gets in behind there. Convinced me to seal up the 2 drain holes and convert to a wet mod, having all that grit and sand in there can't be good for the seal...)

Thanks.

 

[GMP]

That spreadsheet was done over twelve years ago. Some of the values in the GG owners manual then were wrong, and there was no shop manual. The values in the sheet are from industrial standards or other bikes with similar fasteners. If the values in the newer manuals are more conservative and specify loctite, please use those. The copy of the sheet on this site is old and I have an updated version. It should really be updated again with values tabulated from the shop manual. Sorry for the confusion.

As far as the springs I don't remember what mine were last time out, but I have never seen GG springs sack out and need replacement. If it doesn't slip I'd just use them.

For the ignition, fill the drain in the cover with epoxy, and lap cover completely flat on a glass plate when cured. If your motor has the M6 hole that goes to the ignition compartment plug that with a short cut down bolt and loctite. Bond two gaskets together and to the case with RTV, as well as the harness plugs, and use a light coating of grease on the cover for easy R&R. This is of course after cleaning everything up well. When R&R the cover, use a coating of grease and just snug the bolts, it will remaing clean and dry inside. JMO, but I wouldn't do any kind of oil fill "wet mod", reason being your not sure if the stator winding insulation coating is compatable with oil over the long term. It was designed as a dry system, and it has been known to be attacked by WD40. If I had an estart I'd do as described and use moly paste on the ring gear and pinion. If the KTM guys have done the wet mod and it holds up then go for it, I just don't know of any experience.

 

[n_green]

Flywheel nut

How the hell do I torque up the flywheel nut? The estart gear is riveted to the flywheel and there is nowhere to lock the flywheel while I tighten the nut to its torque. A rattle gun would work but won't exactly be accurate. Anyone got any suggestions?

 

[Jakobi]

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/44/-/256/731/-/6067/Steahly-Engine-Lock-Up-Tool

I've heard of people using starter cable fed down the spark plug hole to lock it up too. You could use something clutch side to hold the system. Put the bike in gear, strap the brake down and lock it up that way. Use a strap like oil filter remover thingo to hold the flywheel while you torque it up.

 

[desertgasser300]

I drop a piece of braided rope down the cylinder thru the spark plug hole. Has worked well for years. I always make sure i'm not feeding it out thru the pipe though.

 

[n_green]

Thanks for the replies. Looks like the nut stays loose until I get my head back