Reed Spacers??

rpduc

New member
Hi all,
So my '05 MC 250 is finally sounding like a bottom end is in order and while tearing down I'm reminded that there is a reed spacer on my bike. I've seen numerous comments about removing that spacer so I tried it but the reed block will not fit without the spacer. It bottoms in there somewhere.

So I go check the parts list and sure enough the MC has a different reed block and requires the spacer. Parts fiche does not specify brand, but the one in my MC is a Boyesen. So I'm curious... Why the different reed block and spacer? I'm ignorant about how that would affect power delivery. I do know that at 58 yrs. I occasionally get more than a handful of out of that MC.
 
I never liked them on a 250, IMO seemed to make the bike more dull on the bottom, and rev slower through that range. Its all about case volume adjustment, so if there is a different RAD valve for the MC thats deeper, the end result should be similar to the EC without the spacer. I'd get a VForce and the associated manifold. With the cases apart you can do a real nice job of polishing the intake area where the reeds can contact.
 
Thanks Glenn,
Been awhile. Don't see the Hyper listed in your signature. Still got it?

I guess that's exactly how I'd describe the bottom on my 250.. dull or soft with a severe hit that occasionally puckers my..... In the right locale....
Course I haven't ridden a lot of stuff to compare it to either. Maybe I'm expecting too much from the 'ole girl. Or maybe the MC cdi is involved?

I think I found the right VForce reed cage part # V 305 A but I'm not finding any reference to any manifold anywhere. If this is supposedly a bolt on might the manifold be included? I imagine Gofasters has the scoop but their new website is a navigation nightmare IMHO.

Thanks for the info,
Ross
 
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Ross,

Its the manifold thats used with the VForce on all GG ECs '05+. Should be common now. If its dull on the bottom, might be compression loss, considering you say the lower end is shot. PV working properly, and adjusted correctly? MC CDI is good! More low end to mid. Rebuild it, VForce, get the squish right, JD Blue needle and it will pull hard off the bottom.

Hyper is gone since last August. Too much $$ to support being I rode the crap out of it and piled up miles. Fork sucked and couldn't be revalved(crimped cartridge), so only fix was a $1100 Ohlins kit which pissed me off. Due for clutch and tires too. Needed the cash to fund what I just got this week, set it up as I want, and support my kids riding. I miss it though, fun bike, tough act to follow. If one of the big four companies would make a big motard bike like that, thats cheap to buy and own, I'd be on it.
 
I had those same crappy Marzocchi's on my first Monster. I picked up a set of Showas off an older monster and had them reworked by GP Suspension. Hugely better but still no Ohlins... At least my S2r1K has adjustables... I still covet the Ohlins on my buddy's S4rs though...

I'm tempted to finance a brand spanking new dirt bike with a Duc sale but can't quite make that leap...

Yup I'll rebuild and do the RB head thing that I never got around to and see how it feels. Can always slap on the reeds.

Thanks for the info.
 
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