Removal of e-start from 2014 XC300

[CombatYoga]

My e-start has sh*t the bed for the 3rd and final time. I haven't opened
it up yet to see what failed yet, but I'm over it.

I actually got my best starts when I kick the bike, including the holeshot at the Ironman GNCC! So not a huge loss - now I want to remove the weight.

I assume there is a non e-start version of my bike that has a powervalve cover that does not have those 2 tall standoffs that the electric starter motor attaches to?
The other thing I need is a non-estart ignition cover for the left side of the motor.
Does the ring gear under the ignition cover serve any balancing purpose, or could I remove it as well?
Anything else I'm missing? Ah yes, the switch on the bars - gone!

Will be a nice weight savings.

Any other considerations?

Thanks!

 

[Jakobi]

Non e-start cover is a nice plastic jobbie. More weight savings. Throw a new gasket in of course.

Remove the battery. How far you go with the loom is up to you. Might find the bike breaths a bit better with some volume back in the airbox as well.

PV cover can be replaced easily. Changed from a finned grey version pre 14 to a black cover. Either will fit, or you could also go aftermarket with larger volume now that the starter motor won't be in the way.

 

[CombatYoga]

What about the ring gear?

Non e-start cover is a nice plastic jobbie. More weight savings. Throw a new gasket in of course.

Remove the battery. How far you go with the loom is up to you. Might find the bike breaths a bit better with some volume back in the airbox as well.

PV cover can be replaced easily. Changed from a finned grey version pre 14 to a black cover. Either will fit, or you could also go aftermarket with larger volume now that the starter motor won't be in the way.

Hey Jakobi - thanks a lot - the aftermarket powervalve cover is a good idea.
I didn't realize I can remove the battery. I'm not that strong on the electrical side. I just got done removing my key assembly, and I had to connect the two power wires together. I guess that confuses me somewhat given that the battery would be gone. I already removed my headlight and disconnected the taillight, so I don't use the battery for anything.

Should I leave the ring gear on the bike (the large circular gear with teeth under the ignition cover that the bendix attaches to to start the bike), or can
I also remove it?

 

[shang]

I can't answer for sure on the ring gear, but I would guess you can remove it.

The battery isn't necessary. You can remove it, the ground wire that runs to the starter, the starter solenoid that is also in the Airbox, and the power wire that runs from the solenoid to the starter. Beyond that, I doubt it would be worth digging further into the harness for more weight savings. But it's pretty easy to track the starter/battery wires down with the tank removed.

I'd be curious to hear how much the whole assembly weighs when you are done.

 

[CombatYoga]

Great idea - I will set everything aside and weigh it when I'm done.
I'll also weigh the replacement pieces (new powervalve cover, ignition cover) to get a net difference.

Thanks for the info Shang.

 

[CombatYoga]

I stripped all of the e-start gear off the bike yesterday as I was reassembling the head.

The total weight of the electric starter motor and its cover, the powervalve cover with standoffs, bendix, ignition cover, ring gear, battery and box, and the wires that run to the starter motor all weigh 7 lbs, 11 oz.

I put a Checkpoint Racing aluminum powervalve cover on as well as a standard ignition cover. Both of these weigh substantially less than the e-start versions.

It sounds like I can remove the solenoid and a bit more wiring.

Net weight savings is probably right at 7 lbs.

I wonder if the ring gear has any sort of flywheel affect, and if I will feel it when riding now that I've removed it?

 

[Neil E.]

Not much effect. It is not at the full diameter, nor is it particularily heavy.

 

[nestz]

I stripped all of the e-start gear off the bike yesterday as I was reassembling the head.

The total weight of the electric starter motor and its cover, the powervalve cover with standoffs, bendix, ignition cover, ring gear, battery and box, and the wires that run to the starter motor all weigh 7 lbs, 11 oz.

I put a Checkpoint Racing aluminum powervalve cover on as well as a standard ignition cover. Both of these weigh substantially less than the e-start versions.

It sounds like I can remove the solenoid and a bit more wiring.

Net weight savings is probably right at 7 lbs.

I wonder if the ring gear has any sort of flywheel affect, and if I will feel it when riding now that I've removed it?

CombatYoga , my starter also destroyed itself and I'm thinking about stripping it all off as you have done.

Mine is a 2014 XC300r as well but I'm wondering how you managed to remove the battery? I've been told the 2014's CDI requires DC battery power to function. Did your bike still start with kickstart once you removed battery? Or did you have to make some further mods/changes to make it work?

Also did you notice any difference from removing the starter gear ring from the Flywheel?

 

[CombatYoga]

Battery definitely not needed

CombatYoga , my starter also destroyed itself and I'm thinking about stripping it all off as you have done.

Mine is a 2014 XC300r as well but I'm wondering how you managed to remove the battery? I've been told the 2014's CDI requires DC battery power to function. Did your bike still start with kickstart once you removed battery? Or did you have to make some further mods/changes to make it work?

Also did you notice any difference from removing the starter gear ring from the Flywheel?

I don't think that is true about the CDI. My bike has run fine since I removed the battery. I followed Shang's advice above - battery, solenoid, obvious wiring.

 

[Neil E.]

Interesting that it works. The estart bike is shown as having the CDI powered by the battery (the single stator winding is not connected).

The kickstart bike has the single winding connected to the CDI with what looks to be a capacitor added to the circuit (no battery). This must work like the older bikes and maybe the capacitor isn't essential.

I guess it's a "try it and see if it works" situation (estart removal).

 

[CombatYoga]

It works!
Or at least it has since January. I'm now having CDI issues...not related to removal of the battery. ;-)

 

[nestz]

Interesting that it works. The estart bike is shown as having the CDI powered by the battery (the single stator winding is not connected).

The kickstart bike has the single winding connected to the CDI with what looks to be a capacitor added to the circuit (no battery). This must work like the older bikes and maybe the capacitor isn't essential.

I guess it's a "try it and see if it works" situation (estart removal).

Rather than removing everything to test it if it works, I just disconnected the positive terminal on the battery, turned the key to 'on' position, and tried kickstarting it. It didn't start but I'm wondering if there something else I would need to connect or disconnect to test properly?

 

[VilluEST]

I have a 2014 EC250R which came with starter from factory but it has been removed now. Works fine and starts from the first kick, although you have to kick it a bit sharper than with battery (lazy push down won't start it). CDI wiring has not been changed, only ignition key wires are soldered together.

 

[nestz]

It works!
Or at least it has since January. I'm now having CDI issues...not related to removal of the battery. ;-)

Thanks CombatYogo. Perhaps your CDI issues are related? Because Neil is right, the non e-starts have a capacitor / condensor (part # EE40300GG-CAB-1), aren't the purpose of these to absorb voltage spikes?