sachs forks ?

[Krisden]

realy what was the testing for them ?
I have been riding dirt bikes since since the late 70s and had a ball top bikes
(As per the tech at the time) but what is with these sachs forks realy are real riders even testing them ?
Im not a hater but the setup on these are not even close to where they should be!!
soft top hard middle and weak bottom stroke.
they are 20 years off the time and why would GG still want to use them?
Im off the bike for the 3rd time for a harsh deflection in to a bad place
Im looking at spending more $$$ just to get it close to usable and the dealer said he would try to get it right for me TRY ? !!!!!!!!!!

 

[rgranger]

You can take some comfort in the fact that the 45's are no better

 

[swazi_matt]

I just had twowheels revalve mine and he also did simmo747 (in your part of the world) midvalve. Due to other issues I have only had half an hour on the bike since then but they feel much better, could not get them to deflect - they used to do this all the time so know your pain

 

[Simmo737]

You can get them good, they need the mid valve modded and if you are doing east coast hills with rocks and roots ( wombat near Melbourne, zigzag or watagans etc near Sydney) you will need to take about 20 percent of the compression damping out ( two of the face size shims) and place a 14 to 20 mm crossover after the second face sized shim.

Two wheels has a mid valve kit he can post you, but you need to be able to get into the cartridge, which is not as easy as other oc forks ( plenty of info if you do a search, or if you know what you are doing you can get to the mv through the base valve opening in the cart, vv tricky.

You can just do the base valve and it will be HEAPS better, and that's not a hard job.

Dirt works in Melbourne can fix them too.

These forks seemed to have been made for woops, take them stock and find the deepest scariest woops you can and be amazed at how they just eat them.

Stock basevalve stack is
23.1 (5)
22.1 (3)
20.1 (2)
18.1
16.1
14.1
12.3
washer

I changed to

23.1 (2)
14.1
23.1
22.1 (3)
20.1 (2)
18.1
16.1
12.3
washer

 

[Simmo737]

Ps the big problem wih dealers saying "try to fix them" is that they have 7mm ID shims, which are peculiar to Sachs forks, not everyone can fabricate or source those shims, tuners of merit I dare say would turn down the valve shafts to take 8 mm shims, or stamp their own shims. Other than that they are well made and aren't that different to other oc forks. I changed to ohlins ttx inserts mainly as I thought it was a great mod to do instead of upgrading to a new bike, but it is far from needed as the forks can be fixed.

 

[Synergy-Seals]

realy what was the testing for them ?
I have been riding dirt bikes since since the late 70s and had a ball top bikes
(As per the tech at the time) but what is with these sachs forks realy are real riders even testing them ?
Im not a hater but the setup on these are not even close to where they should be!!
soft top hard middle and weak bottom stroke.
they are 20 years off the time and why would GG still want to use them?
Im off the bike for the 3rd time for a harsh deflection in to a bad place
Im looking at spending more $$$ just to get it close to usable and the dealer said he would try to get it right for me TRY ? !!!!!!!!!!

Bad base valve flow.....to small...flip the the valves more larger shims
Mv float to tall...shorten to. 9mm
upper damper rod floating bushing binds because of small od on housing and nylon washer in front of it....open both to 14mm.

So far these mods helped tremendously ...no more deflection...good bottom resistance.....pretty good mid stroke....seems to soak pretty well. N

Next I will work on hs rebound.

Rob

 

[Simmo737]

Suspension makes me laugh, two ways to do the same thing, though I would strongly suggest you do what synergy seals says as he's an actual expert and I'm an enthusiastic amateur.

 

[Krisden]

Thx guys didnt some asking around with some good tuners and its seems they need some work and new springs to counter my weight as im told under braking it compounds the problem making it even harsher.
It just alittle sad the bike that handles so well has the nasty habbit of wait till your not ready then trying to kick you off

 

[cchracer77]

Dave at stm here in U.S. did mine. Heavier springs, midvalve work, and some work to reduce sticking. Went from the worst thing I'd ever ridden, to one of the best.

 

[STM Suspension]

You're absolutely right in that the suspension, front and rear, could work a lot better for riding here in the US.

The Sachs is odd with 7 and 9 mm shims- but for sure with not much work we were able to get Chase's fork to work properly- although we did have to make a couple of tools to open the cart.

The 45 mm Marzocchi can also work really good- it just takes more work.

So, frustration at the way it comes- for sure. But they can work good.

FWIW, we just got our first ride report from our new AA Pro Enduro guy with the new '12. It's going to need some love too. We'll get it into the shop this week for development.

 

[Krisden]

Ive posted my forks and shock to chads off raod setups in Geelong after talking to some locals and chad him self. 2 days later he has called to say they are on the way back and questioned how i was able to ride the bike at all as the setting were all over the place front and back.
So maybe they arnt as bad as i think and the last owner realy messed up the clickers.
Im looking forward to riding it now.

 

[Synergy-Seals]

Suspension makes me laugh, two ways to do the same thing, though I would strongly suggest you do what synergy seals says as he's an actual expert and I'm an enthusiastic amateur.

Well....I am no expert...I do it for fun.....now you want to talk seals....that's a different story.
The sachs forks are very similar to wp but the engineering and design is terrible. They actually could really simplify the midvalve more and save on manufacturing costs.
The floating bushing is a great idea for possible binding issues but using that stupid nylon....yes nylon that swells with oil washer in the front of it makes no sense. I realize the top out spring sets against it but it is a terrible fit and the snap rings they chose are horrid to work with. Also behind the du bushing the bore is undersized at 13mmi id. I open it up to 14mm.
The damper rod should have been electro polished and then plated. Anodized aluminum and du bushings do not work with oil....period.

Simple changes to these forks would make a big difference



My two cents

Rob

 

[_Hammy]

Ive posted my forks and shock to chads off raod setups in Geelong after talking to some locals and chad him self. 2 days later he has called to say they are on the way back and questioned how i was able to ride the bike at all as the setting were all over the place front and back.
So maybe they arnt as bad as i think and the last owner realy messed up the clickers.
Im looking forward to riding it now.

Any update? How did they perform after Chad's work?