Sachs Suspension aftermarket options??

[swazi_matt]

What are the available aftermarket options for bikes fitted with Sachs forks and shocks?

So far all i can find is the Ohlins TTX inserts and shock, race tech seems to only list 2000 bikes

If i could find someone to revalve my stuff i would go that route, but i am having problems on that route so think it may be easier to just order something and plug it in.

Also where can i find out what the correct spring rates are for my weight (172 without kit - prob about 200-205 with full kit)

thanks

 

[GMP]

There is no such thing as a plug in solution. The optimum valving setup is going to be different for everyone no matter what the platform or cartridge type. It may give you more range and versilitity, but you can't expect it to be best for you even after dropping over $1K on it. For that $$, I'd demand perfection, which means custom valving anyway. JMO.

 

[tnttimber]

Factory Honda seals and wipers go right in and have a lot less sticktion, I think I got mine for a 2010 crf450. To me it made a huge difference in how plush the fork is.

 

[swazi_matt]

I agree thatthe ttx cartridge may need to be revalved, but there're a lot more people out there that know what to do with the ohlins. I keep getting told "we don't do sachs suspension"

Ihave also heard of guys fitting the whole front end of a CRf into the GG t clamp with shims to take them fom 47 to 48mm

TNT where do you get these factory seals from?

 

[GMP]

I would think the main reason for lack of revalve support is the bastard size 7mm shims. In the US, Les fixes this. Being that the Sachs 48mm appears to be the new standard GG fork in the world market, replacing the 45mm Zoke, it would not surprise me if some aftermarket taps become available to address this at a reasonable cost. We will get the new Zoke CC 48s, so not much of a market here.

 

[jeffs2200]

I am using a set of WP cc forks from a 2010 Husaberg FX450 on my 2011 300. I am happy with the Sachs shock.

Richard at House of Horsepower will also revalve the Sachs stuff.

 

[noobi]

Swazi, ever considered pulling the valves out of the forks and sending them to someone who can/will tune the sachs stuff? It would probably have to be a last resort, but probably than buying TTX inserts.

 

[GMP]

Did these replace the Sachs or Zokes? If Zokes what clamps are you using?

 

[jeffs2200]

I replaced the Sachs with the WP. The tubes on the WP have a little larger diameter at the bottom clamp but they still fit and work fine without binding.

You can see the forks in this pic.

 

[thumperrider1]

Even if a little big on the bottom clamp I bet a good machine shop could shave a tiny bit off. They have to be pretty good compared to the 45's.

 

[jeffs2200]

I have not ridden the 45's. I like the WP forks much more than my revalved Sachs.

I would really like to try a set of the new 48 cc Zokes.

I also have to run a KTM front wheel with the WP forks.

 

[swazi_matt]

I would think the main reason for lack of revalve support is the bastard size 7mm shims. In the US, Les fixes this. Being that the Sachs 48mm appears to be the new standard GG fork in the world market, replacing the 45mm Zoke, it would not surprise me if some aftermarket taps become available to address this at a reasonable cost. We will get the new Zoke CC 48s, so not much of a market here.

i HAVE EMAILED LES BEGGING FOR HIS ASSISTANCE, BUT TO SEND MY SUSPENSION TO HIM WOULD PROB COST ABOUT $300 IN SHIPPING COSTS ALONE, SO I HAVE ASKED HIM IF HE CAN DO SOME SORT OF KIT THAT I CAN THEN JUST FIT INTO MY FORKS HERE (OR GET A SUSPENSION EXPERT TO DO FOR ME)

Swazi, ever considered pulling the valves out of the forks and sending them to someone who can/will tune the sachs stuff? It would probably have to be a last resort, but probably than buying TTX inserts.

I AM TRYING HARD TO DO THIS, THERE IS A GOOD TUNER IN SOUTH AFRICA (USED TO WORK FOR WP IN AUSTRIA BEFORE MOVING BACK TO SA) BUT HE HAS REPLIED SAYING HE DOES NOT DO SACHS SUSPENSION

 

[GMP]

Talk to him about sending just your cartridges and base valves. Easy to R&R, and much lighter, smaller and cheaper to ship. Not sure if he would be receptive to that idea but its worth a shot.

 

[Synergy-Seals]

We have the sachs shock seals and 48mm fork seals.
we are the only manufacturer besides sachs making sachs shock seals. If you want oem you will have to buy the whole seal head kit which is not really necessary 90% of the time....and it costs $100. Our seal is only $13.50.

Keep it pinned....Rob

 

[swazi_matt]

We have the sachs shock seals and 48mm fork seals.
we are the only manufacturer besides sachs making sachs shock seals. If you want oem you will have to buy the whole seal head kit which is not really necessary 90% of the time....and it costs $100. Our seal is only $13.50.

Keep it pinned....Rob

Do you also do their shims? Think there is a gap in the market for those

 

[Synergy-Seals]

Those are a larger id....right?

 

[Simmo737]

7mm I.D instead of 6 or 8 mm, they are used in all Sachs forks including those used on BMW road bikes (like the s1000r). You cannot buy them anyware. If you've got a cnc water cutter and can find .1 mm and .15 mm high tensile spring steel sheets, you will make yourself a market instantly, and be able to sell shim kits for other size I.D, shims do wear out, lose there shape etc

 

[Synergy-Seals]

I can have some made. I will look into it.

I did take apart the sachs forks and could not believe what terrible engineering was done. They use circlip rings to hold the bushings in place and they are a pain to get out. I will be replacing all of them with retainer rings with holes to grab onto.
also the bottoming come was set with alot of red loctite which I had to heat up to break loose. This is not necessary at all. Next was the mv spindle which was set with green loctite in which I had to get really hot to break loose....it was smoking and the spindle was turning brown....sst does this when hot.
Well inside the bottoming cone is a floating bushing which is a great idea....but it is very sticky for a couple reasons. First they aerial using a teflon du bushing pressed into the floating housing. The housing has an print on the o.d. which helps it float around.
Second the damper rod is aluminum which does not perform well with the teflon du bushing.
Third. The bottom cones 12mm clearance hole is too small and the damper rod...when floating....has the possibility to bind aluminum to aluminum.
when you slide the bottom cone on the damper rod...it is very sticky.

I will be manufacturing a new bushing that replaces the entire two piecestrokes floating bushing setup with a one piece.

The float setup is pretty tall and the flex of the shim plate is not enough.
Also it looks as it someone drilled bleed holes on echo side of the mv rebound side of the piston. This is not good and not necessary.

So over all...I am not impressed and will be making new components and replacing the circlips with retaining rings.
I can and will make these forks like butter. And sponge soakable in slow motion. And dampen perfect in faster throttle pinned sections.

Rob

 

[mikemoto]

I just installed TTX kit in my 2011, just back back from my first ride, they work so good I didn't even mess with the clickers. Tight single track, no rocks but a lot of tree stumps. The bumps just disappear. Then I went to a small woods track with giant woops and they just suck them up. Money well spent. Now I want the shock.

 

[twowheels]

I can have some made. I will look into it.

I did take apart the sachs forks and could not believe what terrible engineering was done. They use circlip rings to hold the bushings in place and they are a pain to get out. I will be replacing all of them with retainer rings with holes to grab onto.
also the bottoming come was set with alot of red loctite which I had to heat up to break loose. This is not necessary at all. Next was the mv spindle which was set with green loctite in which I had to get really hot to break loose....it was smoking and the spindle was turning brown....sst does this when hot.
Well inside the bottoming cone is a floating bushing which is a great idea....but it is very sticky for a couple reasons. First they aerial using a teflon du bushing pressed into the floating housing. The housing has an print on the o.d. which helps it float around.
Second the damper rod is aluminum which does not perform well with the teflon du bushing.
Third. The bottom cones 12mm clearance hole is too small and the damper rod...when floating....has the possibility to bind aluminum to aluminum.
when you slide the bottom cone on the damper rod...it is very sticky.

I will be manufacturing a new bushing that replaces the entire two piecestrokes floating bushing setup with a one piece.

The float setup is pretty tall and the flex of the shim plate is not enough.
Also it looks as it someone drilled bleed holes on echo side of the mv rebound side of the piston. This is not good and not necessary.

So over all...I am not impressed and will be making new components and replacing the circlips with retaining rings.
I can and will make these forks like butter. And sponge soakable in slow motion. And dampen perfect in faster throttle pinned sections.

Rob

Circlips? Loctite? The horror of it all

The Sachs forks are better than you make them out to be with some rather straight-forward mods. Once you get past the assembly techniques and non-traditional component sizing, I've found them to be decent units. Low friction, good control, no leaks - they're not CC, but they can work pretty well.

Good news on the components though - having another source is always a good thing.