Scotts damper service?

[wence]

I was just thinking that I would change the oil in my scotts damper and was wondering if anyone has attempted this?
As far as I know you use fork oil? Just wondering what weight?,how much?, etc.
Is there anything else I should be doing while it is apart?
For that matter , is there anywhere that shows how to pull it apart and what to watch out for?
Thanks in advance,
Mark

 

[einsteingarage]

you can download the manual/howto right on the scotts site

 

[gasgasman]

I've done mine a couple times.

I used 2.5W fork fluid.

http://www.scottsperformance.com/litrack/259.pdf

 

[wence]

Thanks for the replies everyone, I should have checked there first I guess.
By the way was there a noticeable difference after the oil change?
Cheers Mark

 

[eff]

Yes. I just did mine this past season. I noticed a huge difference when not riding (i.e. just turning the bars), but just like when I first put it on my bike I didn't notice it at all when riding.

 

[GMP]

Mine is over ten yrs old and I've rebuilt it several times with new o-rings, etc. Oil change is easy. When they get older, the anodizing wears off the inside bottom surface where the wiper moves. This causes the oil to foul faster, so more frequent oil changes on an older unit.

 

[wence]

Glenn,
Was it yours that was a road bike type scotts or was that someone else.
If it was you , did you notice whether the weight of oil was thicker or not?
Cheers Mark

 

[GMP]

No, mine was bought as a kit in '98 for my KTM200, and been on every bike since. I do run heavier oil (5W) because mine is worn and lost some low speed damping. I had to crank the adjuster up more as it got older. It still works OK, but I can't seem to keep o-rings in the top cover long before it leaks, shaft is likely worn. After twelve years I guess I can't complain.

 

[wence]

Ok, I bought a road bike one a year or so ago , secondhand .
I was talking to someone on here that had the same on their bike and liked it as it damped in and out instead of just one way.
Sounds like they are a pretty robust sort of unit if yours is 12 years old and still working.
Cheers Mark

 

[gasgasman]

They are tough.
Mine started off life on my 1989 RMX250.

 

[wence]

Still going by the sounds of it?
How many times have you had to replace seals , orings etc?
What do you guys use to get the oil into the unit?, the website shows a small oil bottle...
Cheers Mark

 

[gasgasman]

It's been rebuilt by Scotts several times. They replaced all the seals and the control valves too.
The pivot arm was cracked at one point and had to be replaced.

I use a syringe to pump the new oil into it.
You don't want to use too heavy of an oil as it won't flow through the small passages as easily.

 

[wence]

Top idea with the syringe, I will have to use that idea.
My damper ,being a road bike type, has heavier oil in it I reckon which is why I am looking to renew the oil and inspect.
Thanks so much for your help everyone,
Cheers Mark

 

[GMP]

I use a small plastic bottle like that shown. The rounded end of the spout seals against the o-ring in the fill hole and allows good pressure when filling. Always leave a very small air gap under the screw to allow for expansion. I fill and bleed mine so the oil is flush with the case, then insert a small hex key to displace a couple drops of oil.

I've broken the pin in the shaft and a couple towers on the bike from severe rock hits that tripped the high speed ckt. I run my low speed loose for max high speed response, unless I'm in a sand run. My biggest problem is the top o-ring, lower lasts fine. Dirt tends to collect in the little well of the cover on the top of the shaft, I suspect this has a lot to do with it. A piece of tape over this would ber a tgood idea.

Does the street version have a high speed ckt as well? To me thats what sets the Scotts apart, as it has saved me from disaster many tmes over the years.

 

[wence]

Yes Glenn , it does and mine too is set very low so as to not lose the quick turning.
I bought the damper to help with high speed deflections.
It has definitely saved me at least once already.
The only differences between the two are that the road type has the damping you are talking about on both the in and out (with relation to the steering), whereas the dirt one only dampens one way.
Depending on what you like , it is either just as good or bad.
I personally love it.
Cheers Mark

 

[swazi_matt]

I am planning on doing an oil change on my scotts, two questions though;
1 do you need the bullet tool if u only changing oil - figure u only need it if u remove the top plate and don't just rotate it

2 scotts say u need to have an air bubble in it to avoid fade, how much of a bubble?

 

[gasgasman]

The bullet tool is only used when replacing the pivot seal. If it is not leaking, no need to replace it.

See GMP's post above, on how to adjust the fluid level.

 

[swazi_matt]

Thanks.

Any of you using the scotts with your bars in the front mount holes? The top clamp I have will only alow the bars to ne mounted in the back holes?

 

[gasgasman]

As with any damper, the pivot shaft need to be directly centered with the steering stem.

 

[swazi_matt]

Ok you just answered my query to scotts, now I need to find out if they make a top mount that caters for the bars in the front holes, because I did not enjoy having them in the back holes