I just got done installing the Scott's sub-mounted steering stabilizer with BRP triple kit on my 2011 EC 300. All seemed good until I sat on the bike and moved the bars left and right a few times, which caused the steering frame bracket to slip and move a bit. I tried loosening and re-positioning the bracket a few times to no avail. I forgot to mention, I cleaned the steering tube frame and the inside of the bracket with contact cleaner, so grease or oil on it isn't the culprit. Any suggestions? I'm considering removing the paint on the part of the steering tube frame that the bracket mounts, and maybe roughing it up a bit with coarse sandpaper, and might even go as far as some sort of glue/epoxy. I have heard of people spot welding it on, but thats a last resort.
Scott's stabilizer trouble
- Thread starter r00zter
- Start date
rgranger
Gold Level Site Supporter
I am sorry, but to many bikes have gone though my head, one of them had a bit of a sloppy weld and was not allowing the collar to seat well at the very top front, I think. Dremel and a grinding wheel took care of it. check around the neck for somethign silimar - always take advantage of any crises to buy a new tool.
The neck appears very even and smooth with no blemishes as far as i can tell. The paint just seems like an awfully slick surface to try and get the bracket to clamp to without slippage. I'm pretty sure that removing the paint would give a much better surface to secure the bracket too, but that will expose that part of the frame to rust which I don't like. I think I might try some Gorilla glue, but I am trying to figure out how I would get the bracket back off if I did that. Maybe heating would do it? Idk, I'm not familiar with the product even though I have a new bottle of it here.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Try some loctite or maybe some liquid gasket. You could probably try a paper gasket if you could cut it to size.
I'd be determining just how easy it is to slide. Like other have said, double check where the bolt clamps the collar. If these 2 surfaces are coming together before the collar is fully tensioned it will slip. Then do i tup with just the collar and see if you can get it to turn by giving it a whack with the rubber mallet etc. If it doesn't then have a look to see that everything else is in order. I had some grit caught in mine where the lug from the collar went into the groove on the damper and was binding and making the lot click and transfer extra forces.
Does it slip with the damper on low resistance? or only on high? Is it when you play with it in the shed, or only when you ride?
I'd be determining just how easy it is to slide. Like other have said, double check where the bolt clamps the collar. If these 2 surfaces are coming together before the collar is fully tensioned it will slip. Then do i tup with just the collar and see if you can get it to turn by giving it a whack with the rubber mallet etc. If it doesn't then have a look to see that everything else is in order. I had some grit caught in mine where the lug from the collar went into the groove on the damper and was binding and making the lot click and transfer extra forces.
Does it slip with the damper on low resistance? or only on high? Is it when you play with it in the shed, or only when you ride?
It is brand new and still on stock setting. After I completed the install, and everything was tight, I just sat on the stand and quickly turned the bars left and right a few times which eventually caused the frame bracket to move side to side slightly as well. There is still about 1/8th of an inch gap between where the bolt clamps the bracket together after tightening to the specified torque....or a little tighter. It just seems like the slick, smooth inside of the bracket doesn't hold very well under force to the slick, smooth painted surface of the steering column frame. Seems like it should have a couple of setting screws in it to grab the frame a little better or something. I don't know how I'm ever going to get it on tight enough to withstand the force of a handlebar whacking a tree if I am able to shake it loose on the stand. Of course I will be calling Scott's tomorrow about it. Thanks for the input...anymore is also welcome.
GMP
Active member
The Scotts towers suck IMO from a design standpoint. The tower centers are too close to steering head center (to allow the use of the standard Scotts arm). This means a lot of force on the tower, and a thin weldment fixing it to the clamp ring. This causes slippage, flex, and even bending in normal use. This is especially bad when the high speed circuit kicks in and basically locks the damper. I've bent two and broken one Scotts tower before modifying one with a larger dia post that is +10mm farther out and matches the Scotts +10mm arm. I've been talking to the guys at Fastway, and they have a very nice, solid, tower in the works for the 62mm neck of all the GGs except the '10/'11 B frame bikes. For these bikes you can use their KTM tower as the necks are both 59mm. This is the best solution, but may require a longer Scotts arm(thats good). To get by with the Scotts tower, remove the paint on the steering neck. Drill and tap two M5 holes 180 deg apart, 90 deg from the tower post. First install, align, and tighten the main clamp, then tighten the setscrews.
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Yeah...I was thinking it would lead to some drilling and tapping. Just curious..why would I need to remove the paint if I am putting in set screws? Do I just have the bracket drilled and tapped? Should I drill into the steering head column itself a small amount for set screws to grab? I have never done anything like this before.....I'm guessing I'll have to get a machine shop to do this stuff. Sorry for all the questions. Thanks again for all the input.
GMP
Active member
You can get by without removing the paint if you use the setscrews, I've done it both ways. What will happen eventually is that the tower post will bend and twist at the weldment instead of slipping. I make good use of the high speed ckt here with all the rocks so I'm rough on towers. It WILL happen. You don't have to go to a shop, just get an M5 tap drill and M5 tap set, and do it by hand in a vise. Clamp is thin so its easy and fast. This stuff and setscrews can be had at Mcmaster.com.
wence
Bronze Level Site Supporter
Glenn,
Just wondering if you have ever had the scotts seem to make turning harder even though the base setting is all the way out?
I had the scotts working well and then serviced it... still great. After a while it seemed to create drag on the bars and make the bars heavy to turn. Not drastically heavy but enough to annoy me( I like light steering-no drag).
I took it off and the steering was normal again.
I checked oil etc and all seems good.
I now have the 12 and was thinking of putting it on that but want to ensure it is not going to be like it was on the 07 when it came off.
The 12 doesn't need it but I like to have it on just incase of high speed deflections etc.
Cheers Mark
Just wondering if you have ever had the scotts seem to make turning harder even though the base setting is all the way out?
I had the scotts working well and then serviced it... still great. After a while it seemed to create drag on the bars and make the bars heavy to turn. Not drastically heavy but enough to annoy me( I like light steering-no drag).
I took it off and the steering was normal again.
I checked oil etc and all seems good.
I now have the 12 and was thinking of putting it on that but want to ensure it is not going to be like it was on the 07 when it came off.
The 12 doesn't need it but I like to have it on just incase of high speed deflections etc.
Cheers Mark
GMP
Active member
There will always be a slight drag, but its not noticeable riding, just on the stand when moving the bars. I would double check to make sure you have the right mount and the damper is truly centered over the steering stem. Side load on the damper axis is bad. There are no bearings, the axis with the vane just rides in "X" rings. I just got another newer one to go on my '12, my original Scotts is 14 yrs old and has a lot of internal wear. Can't get all the parts as its one of the original Ohlins units made in Sweden. Still works pretty good with heavier oil to compensate. I would not ride without my damper any more than my knee brace or helmet, on any bike despite its stability.
