Seized 250?

eff

eff

Silver Level Site Supporter
A beautiful day of riding ended 10 miles too soon yesterday.

A little background, a rattle that started on my previous ride after I hit the pipe on a rock. It sound like the pipe guard was rattling. Last week I took the pipe off, replaced the flange gasket, replaced the pipe springs and reassembled. For the first 15 miles of the ride the bike ran great and no rattle. Then I crashed hard going over an opening in a rock wall, planning to do a little jump. Instead the bike went flat down and took me to the ground (I blame the slick leaves). After that the rattle was back. It was driving me nuts but I was convinced it was not a mechanical issue. I even kicked the pipe a one point and I could hear the rattle. I figured it was the pipe guard and pushed on. With 10 miles to go I stopped to help me friend with his bike and when I tried to start my bike it was locked up. ARGGGGG!

What would cause a perfectly running bike, yes it was running like a champ, to lock up after being shut down? I am stumped. The transmission side all seems good. It shifts not problem. It was not running lean and it had plenty of coolant. I guess I'll know more after I start tearing it down, but for now it's tearing me up inside. :(
 
Ed,

Its entirely possible that you are dealing with two unrelated issues. The pipe rattle, from my experience, comes mainly from the edge of the pipe flange vibrating and touching the spigot bolts, if the header is even slightly tweaked.

The fact that it shut down clean tells me it did not seize. I would at first guesss suspect some type of primary problem. It will be easy to find.
 
Thanks for the words of encouragement Glenn. I am thinking along the same lines.

Any suggestions on where to start? Since my top-end has two seasons on it now I was thinking it is time to do that too.
 
I'd pull the primary cover, any catostrophic failure or jam of the gear train should be evident. If it is not, then you could pull the clutch for a better look at the kickstarter gears, and try to turn the crank by the pinion or the flywheel. By now you should know whats up, good or bad.
 
Maybe something was damaged in the crash, from the starter possibly being impacted? Just a thought. I have some high res pics of my kicker gear job, I could send you if you need them for reference.
 
The bike feel on the shifter side. The tip broke off that too, but it shifted fine afterward.

I think you are onto something. I pulled the ignition cover and the flywheel would not turn. I put it in first and rocked it back and forth gently. After that I could get the flywheel to rotate back and fourth about a 1/8 turn. If I went too far it locked again (sounded like it clicked in). Definitely something on that primary side and maybe the kick start mechanism is jammed up.

Since my hip was killing me last night after sitting for over an hour on the ride home, I just parked the bike in the garage and my arse on the couch and watch the Giants squander a lead. I plan to wash it up on Wednesday and then I can pull the cover off and see what's going on in there. I'll post and update when I do.

Thanks Glenn as usual you have been great help.
 
Why? The bike shut down normally with the kill switch, locked up when he attempted to kick start it. My $$ is on the primary.
 
eff I have a spare set of kicker gear,idler gear and spring for your bike if thats what you need, let me know and Ill get them to you
 
my buddys ktm 300 did the same thing it was running fine, we all stopped for a break and when he went to restart it it was locked up .
 
mxdj2003 said:
my buddys ktm 300 did the same thing it was running fine, we all stopped for a break and when he went to restart it it was locked up .
Click to expand...

enough of the suspense, what was wrong with your buddies bike?

I had a bike seize once after I turned it off. I was young, dumb, and (you know the rest). I also had never checked the oil. It was a Yamaha 650 Special and I was on a road trip. Started running poor and I pulled over to check it out. Looked fine (I still hadn't checked the oil yet) then froze solid when I tried to restart. That's when I checked the oil! But it loosened up enough to restart after it cooled down and I drove it another 15 miles (rural area) before I could get to a store to buy oil! Rode it for another 2 years!
I don't think this is eff's case though.

Since we're all guessing, my wild-a** guess is main bearing, flywheel side. But I'm not betting any money!
 
One other possibility is a broken/ cracked ring. It would create an engine rattle somewhat different from a loose bolt or hardware rattle. Have pulled your top end yet? Even a look up the exhaust port might show something.
 
fury1 said:
eff I have a spare set of kicker gear,idler gear and spring for your bike if thats what you need, let me know and Ill get them to you
Click to expand...

Thanks Kevin. I'll let you know after I have a chance to get into it.
 
OK. GMP pointed right to the problem, but it was my buddy Shawn that said maybe the clutch basket broke. Sure enough when I pulled the clutch cover it was obvious, one of the fingers had broken off the basket.:mad:

I'm glad that I found the problem. but not happy to have to shell out the $ to fix it.
 
Ed,

Was the basket notched bad and failed because of this? If the fingers were beat up from the plates the alloy can be work hardened and more prone to cracking.

Here is a guy that used to modify baskets with steel inserts to eliminate notching wear. He is still listed, and I called a couple times but just get a machine. If you can get in touch with him, and he still does this work, get a used GG OEM basket and have it modified.

Stormin Norman Racing, RR#2, P.O. Box 471, Ruffsdale, PA 15679. 724-722-3630

He has no website.
 
Thanks Glenn.

I didn't pull the clutch yet but the broken piece looked as good as new. Little to no notching.
 
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