Shifter woes...why am I the only with these fitment issues?

Koko

New member
So I ordered one of the cheaper levers from Niche Cycle and when I mouted it up, it hit my ignition cover. So I returned it, then ordered a TMV shifter.

Off comes the stocker one goes the TMV...same issue. It's because both shifters are longer than stock. They have the same bend, but their length screws things up. The added length would be welcomed with my size 13 shoes.

Sorry for the bad pics. For some reason my pegs look bent. They're not. It's just the odd picture angle with my junky cell phone camera.

Stock
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TMV
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Your ignition cover seems to stick out awfully far. I think that is the problem. Do you have some sort of large flywheel or weight? The niche shifter fit my 2011 perfectly.
 
I use mine without the circlip fitted and tightend on the slinned shaft to give clearance at the toe end.Just check that bolt now and then for tightness.
 
I was worried about decreasing it's strength if I do that. But that would easy enough with some heat and my vise.
 
I cut mine & got it welded, cover looks exactly like mine.

Using it without the circlip is inviting lose. Trust me its no fun walking back 1 mile trying to remember when you last changed gear in single track & still not finding it & having to finish the loop stuck in 3rd (luckily not say 5th).

I tie wired a loose loop of wire to the lever & back to the frame so if it does jump off it doesn't go far. Bolt doesn't retain like a jap bike.
 
there are at least 3 different stock shifter levers for the gg. they must have patterned it after the longest one. if you use the longest one (like these aftermarket ones..), when you have a left side get off, the shifter will bend and not clear the stator anymore. and you won't be able to shift up. you will need to modify the aftermarket ones by either shortening, or grinding the back side, or mounting downward - either way imho they're all junk, and bend quite easily.. i will mount the suzuki one today and take some pics. i have a few variations (different gg #'s) i can mount/take pics of to show which ones may work for you.

also, you gotta use the circlip! i have to tighten the shifter before every race - the splines of the shifter are probably too fine and just a little wear/one time of using it loose, and it'll continually loosen forever. not to mention the aftermarket ones sometimes have the bolt on the top, and sometimes on the bottom, so accessing the pinch bolt can be tough. and there's no clearance to use a longer bolt and a nut (maybe a jam nut will fit and allow the shifter to operate without hitting the frame - gotta check)
 
Thanks Stainless. Truly appreciate your help. I'm looking forward to the pics of the shifters along with the RMZ one. If there's one that fits better, I have no problem returning this one to get one that fits without major modification.

I appreciate the feedback everyone!
 
shifter 1 me120336026

ok, so i have 3 different shifters. the longest one is gg# me120336026 it is 130mm from the front of my pegs (superstock) to the inside of the tip.

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shifter 2 ME25936026

the second one is GG # ME25936026 it is the shortest one i have, measuring 110mm from the front of my pegs (superstock) to the inside of the tip.


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shifter 3 - mystery shifter

the third one is a mystery. it's aftermarket, and i've modded it a bit at the tip, it has a way different bend, very offset from the pinch (pic 2 shows the offset). i'm sorry i don't know manufacturer. maybe you can tell by looking at it. it measures 115mm from the front of my pegs (superstock) to the inside of the tip.


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here's a pic of all 3 together. the top is the longest, the bottom the shortest. the middle one is aftermarket. notice the pinch goes through opposite of stock.

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a disclaimer - i shift up different than a lot of people - i do not pull up from under a shifter, with it resting on the top of my boot and my foot on the peg..
i have a tendency to shift up with the side of my boot. with the shifter catching the inside edge of my boot. many times with my foot off the peg. many times not flexing my ankle to shift, i also wear size 9 boots, so what works for me is probably not gonna work for everyone else. i think this technique derives from my riding so many different bikes, many vintage with very poorly designed shift levers... either way probably a bad habit but works for me. i am really hard on levers since i have a tendency to push them inwards also...

shifter #me120336026 is too long for me - i think it would work for almost everyone else though.. i prefer a short style shifter since i don't get my boot all the way under it. and if it bends inwards, it's not gonna foul the stator cover.
 
This shifter stuff is getting old. I've fixed a bunch of them and wore them out all over again. I have a Hammerhead with a special bolt I made for easier R&R, but thats now wearing out too plus it gets loose too easy. Problem with QUALITY aftermarket parts made here is the special tooling for the splines is not worth it for a limited market this point.

Best shifter for tough off road use is an all steel shifter. I'm pretty sure the steel shifter on my wife's Pampera would work if heated and reshaped, but I only have one. If its the same as the older trials bike (pre Pro models) it should be available through Rising Sun.
 
This shifter stuff is getting old.
no doubt about that. i was really excited to use the suzuki one, it looks really well constructed (aluminum though..).

a steel shifter would be great, if there was one. let us know if the pampera one splines fit.
 
The Pampera splines DO fit, its the bend thats all wrong. Question is when it is reshaped to fit the EC will it be long enough?

I have an IMS steel shifter on my 10 yr olds KLX110. That kid crashes the hell out of that bike! Has bent everything on it. If he bends the shifter I just grab it and bend it back, and the tip pivot is as tight as new. I was thinking of taking an old GG shifter and machining off the clamp area into a nice square section, to form an adapter. Then weld a steel box section to an IMS shifter of the appropriate bend, with a bolt through everything to clamp it tight. Make up a spare if it works, and the adapter part should never break.
 
Thank you for the update and pictures Stainless!


The Pampera splines DO fit, its the bend thats all wrong. Question is when it is reshaped to fit the EC will it be long enough?

I have an IMS steel shifter on my 10 yr olds KLX110. That kid crashes the hell out of that bike! Has bent everything on it. If he bends the shifter I just grab it and bend it back, and the tip pivot is as tight as new. I was thinking of taking an old GG shifter and machining off the clamp area into a nice square section, to form an adapter. Then weld a steel box section to an IMS shifter of the appropriate bend, with a bolt through everything to clamp it tight. Make up a spare if it works, and the adapter part should never break.


Love this idea. I wish I knew how to weld. Some day I'll take classes and buy myself the equipment. Probably when I retire. HA
 
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