Silencer ??s

Fred1956

New member
I decided to pack the silencer on my '06 EC250, my first FMF Turbine core II BTW, and when I got it apart it was soaking wet with oil. Now I expected as much as I've noticed the 'spooge level' increasing lately, even as much as I'm starting to get oil flecks on the back of my chest protector. I know if I could ride faster that wouldn't happen but I prefer to think of it as I'm sucking a vacuum and it can't get away.
Anyway after the first 10" into the case of the silencer I can see the 'turbine core' and some packing around that. Do I need to dig that out? It seems to be a bit tight and if I don't have to drill rivets I won't.
As for the "spooge' issue I'm running Silkolene Pro2X full synthetic (at 44:1), mostly because I run it in my trials bike (80:1) and didn't want to keep 2 brands of oil around, and this is some oiling stuff ! Not to get into another 'oil thread' but I'm going to have to switch to something else. I like the oil film but it also smokes to beat the band.
One more thing, oversize PV Cover, the one that GoFasters sells now has a threaded vent hole in the bottom, does it need to be plugged? I still have the original vent in the cylinder also, is two vents overkill? It doesn't seem to affect performance but I do get that oil film out of it at the lower RPMs.

Thanks
 
I drilled all the rivets and disassembled the whole thing. Burned it clean with a propane torch, reassembled with pop rivets and packed. All spark arresters trap oil mist in the exhaust that blows out with a standard silencer. It collects on the back of the "bullet" and drips back into the packing. For the same amount of hours a TC2 packing will be more oil soaked. All of the modern high flashpoint oils make this even worse. I only run the FMF TC2 when I have too, preferring the stock silencer.

Just jet and mix for a good running bike with good engine life, not a clean exhaust.

I have the cover plugged and the OEM drain open, as its lower in the system. The cover will not trap a lot of oil unless the drain is closed off.
 
...I run it in my trials bike (80:1)

to kinda side step your original post....
on a gasgas trials bike, in the owners manual it states 1.5%.
i see this as 100/1.5 = 66:1 [like my ec300 states 2% which is 100/2 = 50:1]
i read about running the bikes at 80:1[1.25%] or even 100:1[1%]
can you help my little brain grasp this difference?

i have noticed a lot of spooge difference when going from 50:1 to 45:1 on the ec300 also.
 
to kinda side step your original post....
on a gasgas trials bike, in the owners manual it states 1.5%.
i see this as 100/1.5 = 66:1 [like my ec300 states 2% which is 100/2 = 50:1]
i read about running the bikes at 80:1[1.25%] or even 100:1[1%]
can you help my little brain grasp this difference?

i have noticed a lot of spooge difference when going from 50:1 to 45:1 on the ec300 also.
I'm sure there is someone more versed than me but....I think it goes to what GMP said about the high flash point of new generation oils, as in they don't burn off, therefore they provide better lubrication, as I witnessed with my 2 GGs. I have no spooge issues with my trials bike at 80:1 but lots of it on my woods bike at 44:1 (more oil). I could probably go to 50:1 on the woods bike but....old habits die hard and the extra & sustained rpm make me do the richer oil mix. I KNOW for sure that there is good lubrication going on at 44:1 because I can see it Make sense?
 
I run Amsoil at 36:1. Yeah, it spooges some with the TC2 in the slow going but not much with the silencer. Jetting is spot on. More oil equals better ring sealing and heat transfer from the piston. At 80 hrs my OEM piston still had half the coating still on it. I couldn't care less about spooge.
 
Spooge is very easy to clean off with wd40. I tried to run Amsoil Saber (recommended ratio 100/1) at 75/1 and it didn't work out because the flash point was too high for the way I lug my 300. Amsoil Interceptor or Dominator is fine at 44/1. Maxima K2 and Champion Waterpumper also work very well at 44/1.
 
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