Small changes I would like to see.

I can't see the fuel level unless I point a flashlight through the opposite side. I'll try again in the sunlight (my test was in the garage) but I don't think the idea is that it be that hard to see.

2 stroke pipes are bad over logs but at least the GG isn't any where near as low as the KTM pipe.
 
i have a hard time seeing the fuel through the right side of the tank, but the left side is really easy to see. and i use yamalube, so its nice and dark.
 
I see the fuel line fine on the 11, but it may be a bit less noticeable than my 08.
The new tank mold may be a bit thicker than the previous 2 piece design in order to tap for true shroud bolts instead of the sheet metal screws they used to use. Hard to tell even side by side as my 08 tank has yellowed slightly over 3 seasons. My mix may be darker than what you run. I run Spectro products.

Other than capacity, I'd like to see a liter more, the new mold is far better than the earlier generation tanks.

Roscoe
 
Well I'll be darned. My bike really is perfect.

I CAN see the fuel level after all. I looked on the left side and sure enough it can be seen. I didn't realize Rich had put so much gas in there. It was much higher than I expected and was basically behind the frame.
 
Bobt250 said:
I would have deserved it.

No smart asses here....................just a DUMB ass :p
Click to expand...

Bob......I'm sitting here chuckling over this whole thing!
I kept thinking....."How can he not see the fuel in that tank?"
I'm glad I'm not the only one who does things like that!
Clay
 
It's Rich Smith's fault. He damn near filled the thing up to the top before I picked it up. I expected to see some sloshing but it's hard to see that when it's almost full and you expect to see it near the bottom

I'm still a dumb ass though.

Hey Clay, could you ask EE about making a roost guard for the headlight?

Maybe there is one but Rich said he didn't know of one. The "other" guys have one. It's ugly though.

P2130042.jpg
 
Last edited:
Bobt250 said:
It's Rich Smith's fault. He damn near filled the thing up to the top before I picked it up. I expected to see some sloshing but it's hard to see that when it's almost full and you expect to see it near the bottom

I'm still a dumb ass though.

Hey Clay, could you ask EE about making a roost guard for the headlight?

Maybe there is one but Rich said he didn't know of one. The "other" guys have one. It's ugly though.

P2130042.jpg
Click to expand...

Good idea! Will do!
 
Bobt250 said:
It's Rich Smith's fault. He damn near filled the thing up to the top before I picked it up. I expected to see some sloshing but it's hard to see that when it's almost full and you expect to see it near the bottom

I'm still a dumb ass though.

Hey Clay, could you ask EE about making a roost guard for the headlight?

Maybe there is one but Rich said he didn't know of one. The "other" guys have one. It's ugly though.

P2130042.jpg
Click to expand...

spiderman, spiderman......
 
Hey Clay, here's a change for ya.

Rich told me that the kickstarters tend to kind of seize up and won't rotate out. Probably made worse since I won't be using it much. He suggested greasing it.

First off, the Torx bolt was an instant flashback to what people are saying here. Whatever.

I went to remove the bolt on top in order to pull off the kick lever to grease it and the head of the bolt broke off. Now that it's broken off I can see a liberal amount of red loctite down in there. Must be the red non-removable loctite.

Needless to say I'm NOT happy that my bike is broken before I've ridden it even once. I was super scared to even try to remove the bolt in the shaft but I had to try. It came out so now I'm going to be drilling and heating and trying to E-Z out a broken bolt on my as yet to be ridden bike.

Something to tell your Spanish friends.
 
All's well that ends well. I drilled out the broken bolt and after I heated it to soften the RED loctite an EZ out took the broken bolt out.

Now my kickstarter has anti-seize in the pivot AND bolts with 10mm heads holding it together and on the shaft with Blue loctite.

Better than new!
 
Bobt250 said:
Hey Clay, here's a change for ya.

Rich told me that the kickstarters tend to kind of seize up and won't rotate out. Probably made worse since I won't be using it much. He suggested greasing it.

First off, the Torx bolt was an instant flashback to what people are saying here. Whatever.

I went to remove the bolt on top in order to pull off the kick lever to grease it and the head of the bolt broke off. Now that it's broken off I can see a liberal amount of red loctite down in there. Must be the red non-removable loctite.

Needless to say I'm NOT happy that my bike is broken before I've ridden it even once. I was super scared to even try to remove the bolt in the shaft but I had to try. It came out so now I'm going to be drilling and heating and trying to E-Z out a broken bolt on my as yet to be ridden bike.

Something to tell your Spanish friends.
Click to expand...

Bob,
The bike didn't break. It did what it was supposed to do. The bolt was supposed to have loctite on it. Somebody broke it while working on it. :)
Clay
 
Bobt250 said:
Are you serious??

I tried to REMOVE a bolt and it broke.

I want you to tell me how to remove a bolt any different than turning it counterclockwise. You're blaming ME for turning a bolt counterclockwise to remove it and it broke because it was welded in there with the red loctite????

Tell me what to do different!

I understand the need for loctite and I used some to put it back together but I am aware that there are versions of red loctite that are for parts that are NOT meant to be removed.

EDIT: Oh I get it, you guys think I scarred up my axle by REMOVING the POS aluminum nut too.

EDIT: Clay says this

It did what it's supposed to do???

Since when are bolts supposed to break when you try to REMOVE them??

Where is that in the manual???
Click to expand...

Bob,
No I wasn't serious. I'm seldom serious. Didn't you see the smiley?

Clay
 
It should come out pretty easy with an E-Z out and some heat. A heat gun will do the trick. All the rotor bolts and front brake caliper bolts have loctite as well. These should all be heated when being removed as well. If the new axle nut is aluminum I would only wrench it with the box end of a wrench or a socket. Preferably a 6 sided socket as opposed to a 12 point one. I would think that a previous years axle nut would fit as long as thje axle is the same size.

All of your triple clamp bolts should get some anti seize as well as your bar clamp bolts. Along with your swing arm pivot bolt. A mix of anti-seize and some grease would be prudent for any fastener that is not removed very often. With the exception of the ones that require loctite. I typically use blue or pink as they are much easier to remove than the red.
 
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