static timing 2k-2

[stainlesscycle]

where are the marks for timing? i see the dynamic timing mark on the flywheel, and perhaps a timing mark on case at 10o'clock plate mount hole? is there one on plate? what is stock timing 1.5btdc? how far can i push timing on 93 octane fuel safely? it's not pinging now, and i've bumped it up a degree or 2 (haven't stuck the inidicator in yet, there are no reference points...............)

 

[GMP]

Use search, I have described this in detail.

 

[stainlesscycle]

i found the reference to m5 capscrew with washer. so i'm assuming when it's up against that, it's at stock timing. stock timing is 1.5mm btdc? how far can i advance it safely from there? a degree or 2? i'm also assuming that 1mm of plate rotation is about 1 degree (i gotta measure plate diameter and do the math..)... should i just mark case/plate when plate is against capscrew as stock timing?

i've looked at the users manuals for 03 and 05 with 2k3 ignitions, and it's saying 1mm btdc is stock timing. it also appears the 250/300 case has marks for potential advance/retard. how far apart are these marks? - i can't find them on the 200 bottom end....

 

[GMP]

Honestly I have never verified the timing with a degree wheel. On my '07 the timing is stock like this. On my '03 I advanced it 1 deg BTDC. Since
the dia of the stator plate is close to 360, you can use 1mm marks on the OD of the plate for reference.

 

[stainlesscycle]

i've tried timing at 1mm advanced (at plate) and 2mm (at plate) haven't checked with dial indicator, but both significantly improved performance.... i set it back to 1mm advanced, just for safety sake. it didn't ping under load at 2mm, but i see no reason to push my luck........

 

[svt2224]

Greg,
If you get a chance could you snap a picture of the location of your ignition. I have never really been quite sure that I have it timed correctly.
Thanks
Jason

 

[stainlesscycle]

first pic shows location of m5 screw/washer. plate in pic is advanced 1mm from washer.. it has really improved performance....if plate rests against washer that is stock timing via GMP method. the right way is with a dial indicator of course, but i'm lazy.

P.S. PLAY WITH TIMING AT YOUR OWN RISK. IF IT'S PINGING IT WILL PROBABLY NOT LAST LONG...........i blew up a rd400f getting a bit too advance happy.. but it ran amazing for about 2 miles before piston meltdown.... if plug shows any signs of metal dusting you're way too far advanced.. if it heat siezes, then releases, it's detonating and destroying the front side of your piston....................

 

[svt2224]

Well crap, that pic explains alot. I just finished putting a new topend in my bike because the ex. side of the ring was absent. I had my timing set with the m5 screw but was using a larger m5 washer, I probably had 2 more mm. of timinig than you. It lasted almost two yrs., but I ran 100 octane which might have slowed its death. Thanks alot for the pics you just saved me 200.00 more.

Jason

 

[stainlesscycle]

if you weren't running 100 octane you would have melted the whole exhaust side of your piston relatively quickly. i'm assuming it chunked the ring and the ring land on the exhaust side?

o.d. of washer i am using is 10mm

 

[svt2224]

Oddly enough the piston looked good, the ring however was ground down to nothing (1/4" end gap). I had just assumed that I had ran dirt through the thing since I had a filter that had started to come apart at the seams. I rarely ever run on the pipe mostly tighter low speed stuff that may have also saved me.

 

[hannesd]

this is where mine is at right now, if i set it at STD position,it wouldn't idle as it should as if there was hardly any compression.
i tried even more clockwise (allmost fully clockwise) and the power was amazing, instant power,no hessitation from idle at all!!
but there seemed to be some sort of 'strange' noise from the airbox (so it sounded) but not well noticeable.
so set it back to where it is now an still have yet to test it at WOT.
seems like it's set at halfway the slots.
any thoughts about this?
i ride 95-98 octane fuel + 50:1 oil.

 

[hannesd]

any thoughts on my timiong setting, how much more can i go clockwise?
can it be measured in the slots?, like halfway or even more?

 

[stainlesscycle]

where you're at is about the most i'd advance it and feel comfortable. if it makes any kinda funny noises, when hot and at wot, back it off a bit. if it's really hard to start, you're too far advanced also...

 

[stainlesscycle]

i'd assume there's a timing mark on the case somewhere, never checked - the flywheel has marks, and surely the factory sets them in and dynamic times them somehow....

 

[hannesd]

it's never hard to start, wherever i set it.
can i test it further clockwise and come to the point where i just hear it pinging,without damage or do i get instant damage at first sound of pinging?
i did set it more and the power was awsome off idle and mid range, but i didn't ride it WOT. i liked the instant power, seemed better to wheelie, more predictable

 

[hannesd]

i'd assume there's a timing mark on the case somewhere, never checked - the flywheel has marks, and surely the factory sets them in and dynamic times them somehow....

i'll see where i can match them...just to be curious

 

[stainlesscycle]

it's never hard to start, wherever i set it.
can i test it further clockwise and come to the point where i just hear it pinging,without damage or do i get instant damage at first sound of pinging?
i did set it more and the power was awsome off idle and mid range, but i didn't ride it WOT. i liked the instant power, seemed better to wheelie, more predictable

when advancing timing, you're always pushing your luck.

most likely not instant damage, depends on how far you are pushing it. you can get quite advanced with race gas, and have no issues (you will need to rejet, and always use it. i pushed my 200 way past where you're at, but i was running 110 octane, and slightly rich jetting...


yep, advancing timing will really liven up the motor, but it will shorten your piston lifespan. even if you don't hear it ping, keep an eye on the plug, if you see ANY metallic flakes on electrode (with magnifying glass) you are eroding the piston.