Stuck bolt, bent allen key, 2013 XC300 front brake rebuild.

BLD

BLD

New member
Anyone have any tips to remove the small bolt pictured below. Went to split the calipers to rebuild the front brake and install new pads, and after a week of spraying penetrating oil, the only thing that moves is the allen wrench as it bends...

What should I use? Heat or an impact? I tried a pin torch (gas soldering iron), but no luck... Thanks!
 

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Pad pin bolt

Needle nose vise grips may help by gripping the pin,or cutting the pads out, in order to get a larger vise grip inside. a higher quality allen key will help too.
 
I ended up replacing the whole caliper on my 13 after I did the same. I drilled the head of the allen out and was able to remove the pin but at the same time damaged the threads a bit and wasn't happy with the result. Not a lot of room to open it up and drop a helicoil in either. I'm pretty sure I threw it in the bin as they are a dime a dozen.

I rounded it out using a quality socket and a old impact that you whack with a hammer. It was jammed and I wasn't patient enough.

Some heat will help, as will continuing with the oil. A bit of shocking can help allow the oil to penetrate, otherwise I would do as above. Cut the pads off the pin, and then use the full length of the pin to grab and turn. Even if you need to grind a flat side on it to get a good grip. You should be able to get it out without damage to the caliper.
 
Wow, that is crazy! I got lucky by treading lightly with my impact. I put it on the lowest torque setting and went very slow with a 5mm bit. I guess some of the penetrating oil helped because it finally broke free wothout any issue. Bleeding the brakes now after replacing the pistons and seals, and a thourough clean up. Almost there, and the new pads do not drag on the disc anymore! Now to spend an hour in the manual finding my torque settings lol.
 
If this is the pin that holde the pads, I have had success with the following prochedure :

Cut off the pin with a hacksaw two different places. Knock out the part without threads with a suitable drift. Pick out the pads. Now, you have access to the threaded part of the pin from both ends and can use vice grip pliers or allen key or both, in combination with heat and penetrating oil.
In my case it was very easy to get the threaded part out when the other end of the pin was knocked out.
 
To prevent it happening again, apply a thin smear of copper grease to the threads (also known as anti seize compound) then wipe away any excess after fitting.

Copper Grease.jpg
 
Last edited:
Anders said:
And not only to the threads. The other end is also prone to seizing
Click to expand...

Yes, good idea.

It's great stuff, I use it all the time on my bikes and car, even my lawn mower! It's so nice when you come to removing anything.

*Protects metal against corrosion, heat and water
*Withstands temperatures of -40C to +1150C
*Does not wash or burn off in normal use
*Suitable for use on wheel nuts & bolts, exhaust brackets, flanges & studs, etc.
 
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