Hello all. I am currently rebuilding the top end on my recently purchased 06 Ec300. While attempting to take the power valve apart in order to clean and inspect it, I have hit a bit of a snag. I have followed the instructions on the front page for disassembly of the power valve and all has gone smoothly until step 8. I simply cannot get this thing out. I have been pulling on it for the last hour and a half and still no luck. Any advice on getting her out? I am new to mechanics and apologize if the solution to this problem is glaringly obvious as I am still learning.
Stuck R PV Assy (R)
- Thread starter Svensk
- Start date
thumperflipper
New member
did you try to soak in PB Blaster or SeaFoam Deep Creep or equivalent penetrating oil?
Could heat cylinder with torch and put ice on bearing
Here in the following video at 4:04 two screwdrivers are used to pry the PV bearing out evenly. You could thread a nut onto it for better purchase/bite. It shouldn't take a ton of force, you don't want to damage the bearing. Soak it overnight if you can
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQJs2qM3rT8
Let us know what works.
Anyone else with ideas?
Could heat cylinder with torch and put ice on bearing
Here in the following video at 4:04 two screwdrivers are used to pry the PV bearing out evenly. You could thread a nut onto it for better purchase/bite. It shouldn't take a ton of force, you don't want to damage the bearing. Soak it overnight if you can
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQJs2qM3rT8
Let us know what works.
Anyone else with ideas?
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thumperflipper
New member
sorry you did say R side. Obviously you are pulling on the BOLT that threads into the R exhaust valve. If you can get the L side exhaust valve, rods and flapper out, maybe you could tap on the inside of the R exhaust valve by putting a drift thru the hole for the L exhaust valve (from the L side)
Just an update for you all. I finally managed to get the right power valve assembly out. I soaked it in some more Deep Creep and let it sit for an entire day. Then using the method in the video posted by thumperflipper I was finally able to get it out.
Thank you all for your suggestions, your input and ideas were greatly appreciated!
Thank you all for your suggestions, your input and ideas were greatly appreciated!
I'm trying to get my right side exhaust valve out of my EC200.
The rod piece from the cases seems to block the right side exhaust valve bearing from being able to come out.
Looks like the only option is to unbolt the barrel so I can lift it up a bit and then push the bearing & right valve out when the rod is out of the way?
I was hoping I wouldn't have to
Can I push the bearing & right side valve into the exhaust and out the hole where the pipe goes instead?
Or is it easier to take off the whole right side clutch cover and un-bolt that rod piece in order to get the exhaust valve out?
The rod piece from the cases seems to block the right side exhaust valve bearing from being able to come out.
Looks like the only option is to unbolt the barrel so I can lift it up a bit and then push the bearing & right valve out when the rod is out of the way?
I was hoping I wouldn't have to
Can I push the bearing & right side valve into the exhaust and out the hole where the pipe goes instead?
Or is it easier to take off the whole right side clutch cover and un-bolt that rod piece in order to get the exhaust valve out?
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Jakobi
Super Moderator
Might as well slip the jug right off if you're that far in. Throw a new gasket under it. Decide if you want to change the rings or not based on what you measure. If the piston has some skirt wear I'd consider changing the whole slug out. Dress the transfers in the cylinder if they haven't been done.
If you can be bothered may be worth while checking the squish. I have always found setting the head up to be number 1 priority in getting these engines to run well.. in saying that it's a good hit in the pocket which you may not want to spend.
Measure up your big end side tolerance and compare to spec, and then make sure you have no up and down wobble in the crank.
They're a piss easy engine to work on. Nothing complicated or sophisticated at all. Very reliable though!
I'm sure I've managed to pull the PV out with the arm in place.. On a bigger cylinder though, which probably gives the clearance.
Cheers mate, reckon I will do just that.
At least then I can make a guesstimate on how many hours I can run before the next piston as previous owner only had it for about 18mnths and didn't do much to it.
Basically an "Unknown history" but ol' mate reckons the previous owner told him he replaced the piston once.
It's up to 93hrs.
Is it pretty much only TSP who does the head mods here in 'Straya?
What would that usually cost? $200-$300?
Any idea if GTS Engineering in Seville also set up the 2T heads? I've had them check & install my valves in the Yammy when I rebuilt that.
So much more parts involved taking apart the 4T
At least then I can make a guesstimate on how many hours I can run before the next piston as previous owner only had it for about 18mnths and didn't do much to it.
Basically an "Unknown history" but ol' mate reckons the previous owner told him he replaced the piston once.
It's up to 93hrs.
Is it pretty much only TSP who does the head mods here in 'Straya?
What would that usually cost? $200-$300?
Any idea if GTS Engineering in Seville also set up the 2T heads? I've had them check & install my valves in the Yammy when I rebuilt that.
So much more parts involved taking apart the 4T
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Jakobi
Super Moderator
Cheers mate, reckon I will do just that.
At least then I can make a guesstimate on how many hours I can run before the next piston as previous owner only had it for about 18mnths and didn't do much to it.
Basically an "Unknown history" but ol' mate reckons the previous owner told him he replaced the piston once.
It's up to 93hrs.
Is it pretty much only TSP who does the head mods here in 'Straya?
What would that usually cost? $200-$300?
Any idea if GTS Engineering in Seville also set up the 2T heads? I've had them check & install my valves in the Yammy when I rebuilt that.
So much more parts involved taking apart the 4T
Yeah. TSP current pricing is $250 plus postage. It's getting up there.
You could try and contact a local machining or engineering mob. Not sure what they would charge though to do up a cad and a single run through a CNC. Probably end up being a few bucks too, unless if you know someone.
Can pick up a forged Wossner from serco for $175. Pretty reasonable. https://www.serco.com.au/product-group/29578-wossner-gasgas-off-road-piston-kits/category/396-engine
