The rpms stick and sometimes climb when the throttle is shut off, i'm pretty sure its not the cable or anything to obvious. The strange thing is if you tap the killswitch it kills of the extra rpm's and returns to normal until you open the throttle again. Sound familiar to anyone, anything I should look for first perhaps ?
throttle sticking, not cable ?
- Thread starter wakeymatt
- Start date
olderandyzer
New member
I just got a used Gas Gas FSE 450. It did that same thing to me once. My bike when I got it had around 410 miles and it is a 2003. It wasn't the cable just like yours. As fast as it happened, it stopped. I have 950 miles on it now, and it has never happened again. That was about 400 miles ago.
Maybe the throttle is sticking at the fuel injection area, like the area that the carb would be?
It sometimes just shuts off for no apparent reason. Acts like the gas is shut off. It then fires right up after I pull off. It is getting less frequent now that I have put time on it, but I don't know what is up with it.
I still like the bike as a road/trail bike.
adv rider
Platinum Level Site Supporter
trhottle sticking
Sounds to me like your bike is running lean, check for an air leak. Try richening up your fuel screw and see what happens- then go lean and see how it affects it. Also spray some penetrating oil{or similar} around your intake area to see if the rpm changes.
Also do you have enough cable freeplay?
Sounds to me like your bike is running lean, check for an air leak. Try richening up your fuel screw and see what happens- then go lean and see how it affects it. Also spray some penetrating oil{or similar} around your intake area to see if the rpm changes.
Also do you have enough cable freeplay?
Last edited:
olderandyzer
New member
Thanks.
No I don't think it is an air leak. The guy I bought it off of had a bunch of particles in the injectors or something. Had to wait another week to get it, as I told him I wasn't buying if it didn't run. He got it to run
Might be what it is then. Most of it probably has moved on through, but I want to check this out.
I can't figure out how to take those gas lines out or off so I can fully remove the tank and clean it. I tried the first week I brought it home, about 2 months ago, but gave up on those pesky clips.
Oh and yes, my bike starts right up. The original owner bought a new battery. Don't know if it is the same size or not, but man, it will crank for 15 minutes. How do I know this? The next day after I brought it home I could not start it (that is when I wanted to take the tank off and clean it) I called the owner, and he told me to hit the red button a couple of times and it will start. IT DID!!
olderandyzer
New member
I'll post the size of the battery tomorrow or the next day.......
olderandyzer
New member
The more I ride this bike, the more I like it! It isn't one of my YZ's, but it still is sweet to ride. I wish there was more info on the bike for sure.....
Did I mention that it is ROAD LEGAL???!!! My Yz's can't do that!!!
Did I mention that it is ROAD LEGAL???!!! My Yz's can't do that!!!
olderandyzer
New member
olderandyzer
New member
Cheers for that fella,
The battery specs are for your one -
YTX5L-BS
Length 114mm, Height 105mm, Width 70mm
CCA (cold cranking amps-approx):
55 cca
Amp/hour rating (approx):
4 amps/hr
Voltage:
12 volts
GASGAS recommended (has .1amps/hr more and double the CCA so in theory should be much better however mine fails miserably) -
YTZ7S-BS
Voltage: 12 Volts
Capacity: 7 Ah
CCA: 110 A
Length: 113 mm
Width: 70 mm
Height inc. terms: 105 mm
My girlfriends Ford KA car battery (the only thing i've found that wills tart the bike from cold) -
Voltage: 12 Volts
Capacity: 45 Ah
CCA: 380 A
Length: 210 mm
Width: 175 mm
Height inc. terms: 175 mm
Now here's what the manuel says -
what the manuel says -
The operating instructions for the battery are as follows:
1. Check the battery tension while the circuit is open.
2. In case the battery?s tension is below 12.60 V, or if the storage period has exceeded 6 months,the battery has to be recharged following the instructions in paragraph. In case the tension is above 12.60 V, the battery can be installed on the vehicle without having to recharge it.
3.1. Charge mode with constant tension. - Constant tension = 14.40 - 14.70V - Initial charging power = 0.1 - 0.5 Cn - Charge duration = 6 hours minimum / 24 hours maximum.
3.2. Charge mode with constant power. - Maximum charge power = 0.1 Cn.
Going to do some tests with a multi meter tonight to see if I can get some real readings from starting of the car battery.
The battery specs are for your one -
YTX5L-BS
Length 114mm, Height 105mm, Width 70mm
CCA (cold cranking amps-approx):
55 cca
Amp/hour rating (approx):
4 amps/hr
Voltage:
12 volts
GASGAS recommended (has .1amps/hr more and double the CCA so in theory should be much better however mine fails miserably) -
YTZ7S-BS
Voltage: 12 Volts
Capacity: 7 Ah
CCA: 110 A
Length: 113 mm
Width: 70 mm
Height inc. terms: 105 mm
My girlfriends Ford KA car battery (the only thing i've found that wills tart the bike from cold) -
Voltage: 12 Volts
Capacity: 45 Ah
CCA: 380 A
Length: 210 mm
Width: 175 mm
Height inc. terms: 175 mm
Now here's what the manuel says -
what the manuel says -
The operating instructions for the battery are as follows:
1. Check the battery tension while the circuit is open.
2. In case the battery?s tension is below 12.60 V, or if the storage period has exceeded 6 months,the battery has to be recharged following the instructions in paragraph. In case the tension is above 12.60 V, the battery can be installed on the vehicle without having to recharge it.
3.1. Charge mode with constant tension. - Constant tension = 14.40 - 14.70V - Initial charging power = 0.1 - 0.5 Cn - Charge duration = 6 hours minimum / 24 hours maximum.
3.2. Charge mode with constant power. - Maximum charge power = 0.1 Cn.
Going to do some tests with a multi meter tonight to see if I can get some real readings from starting of the car battery.
