2012 300EC no power above 1/4 throttle

I performed a compression test tonight.

The bike consistently delivered 140PSI, but I live at 6500 feet so with the correction factor of .826 for altitude would put me at almost exactly 170 at sea level.

I haven't done any squish measurements or mods to the bike so I'm inclined to say compression isn't bad.

When I pulled the tank off and went to remove the spark plug the act of brushing my hand against the wire going from the CDI to the coil popped it off it's spade. I put it back in place and removed it on purpose and it took quite a bit more force than just brushing against it to remove so I think I have the smoking gun.

I'm going to pop the carb off, clean it, and check the reeds since I'm 90% of the way there.

The Saga Continues :D
 
Unless if you know your gauge is accurate the figure means not much. My particular one also includes the volume of the adapter and plumbing which throws it way out. A fresh engine with 14:1 UCCR will be lucky to blow 150psi on my gauge when in reality it should be 180-200psi.
 
So what really matters is the particular gauges reading at new compared to later and what really matters is the relative change? Makes sense, and unfortunately I just bought the gauge today so I don't have an initial measurement to read off.

Right now I'm going to stick with the plan of checking the carb and reeds and see where that gets me. That connection to the coil was very suspect and I was fiddling in that area the last time I had ridden the bike before the problem occurred.

I'll be sure to update with my findings.

Just curious, what does UCCR stand for?
 
This vid?

http://youtu.be/4e_H_ogPWx8

It was sort of similar but I never tried revving it stationary like that. too worried about fragging something.

Like I said, with the way the pickup for the coil was attached I'm guessing it was that.

Since I had it apart though I tore into the carb and reed block. Reeds were in great shape and clean as could be.

The carb on the other hand was fairly gunked up. I suspect it has a lot to do with the intake boot on the air filter side not fitting very well due to the Lectron's length. Since I have a spare intake boot lying around I took a pair of sheers and a razor to the one on the bike. The goal was to clear space for a rib on the top of the Lectron I believe was causing the issue by pushing on the boot.

At this point I've been through pretty much every thing mechanical so I'm going to button it back up tonight and see how she runs tomorrow. I'm optimistic it was that electrical connection so we'll see.

If nothing else this has given me a good reason to go over everything and make sure it's in order for the long haul as I intend to keep this bike for quite some time. For the terrain I prefer to ride I don't think there is anything more suited.
 
VxZeroKnots said:
So what really matters is the particular gauges reading at new compared to later and what really matters is the relative change? Makes sense, and unfortunately I just bought the gauge today so I don't have an initial measurement to read off.
. . .
yeah and also oil that collects in a 2 stroke crankcase can get thrown up and distort the reading. I never bother with them now, I'd rather schedule & measure ring end gap.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
(F5) said:
yeah and also oil that collects in a 2 stroke crankcase can get thrown up and distort the reading. I never bother with them now, I'd rather schedule & measure ring end gap.
Click to expand...

That would explain why of the three tests I ran the first one was lowest.
 
More likely that is the coriolis effect and your relative position to the moon between the first and next test. You may find it increases as you start to approach, but I can't fully account for solar eclipses or bank holidays.

or you could just put your thumb over the hole & see if it blows it off:p
 
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