Time to pimp the Gasser

[Skidad]

Just sold my 04 KTM SXC dual sport bike this afternoon to one very lucky guy. Totally sano bike with just 1,675 miles on it and loaded with extras.

Anyway, that cancels out all the money I spent on my new Gasser (thank god) with a good chunk left over to buy some goodies for the new scoot and I have even more stuff to sell on KTM Talk that didn't go with the bike.

First thing up...some bike armor. Skid plate, rad. guards, pipe guard and rear disk guard to help survive in New England.

What radiator guards are you guys using on the 07/08 bikes?


Skidad

 

[SpeedyManiac]

Here's my recommendations:

Skid plate - hyde combo unit or mecasystem

Pipe guard - hyde or LTR or get a custom cage. Eline is garbage.

Rear disk guard - scotts.

Rad guards - Force Accessories. Hands down the best guard on the market.

Other goodies I recommend:
-LTR PV cover
-LTR impeller
-08 seat (way better than the 07)
-scotts steering damper (I have a BRP mount but am making something lower as it's too high)
-BRP top triple clamp (better pinch bolt location)
-Fasstco Flexx bars (best bars on the market, hands down)
-Cycra Probend barkbusters

That's about it. Stock, the bikes are great. Get the armour first, then a few goodies to make it fit better.

Have fun!

 

[coolum74]

Defietly Force Radiator Guards... not just because there made here in Australia.

 

[Brian VT]

See you at the Rocky Mtn. Enduro ? (no plate req'd.)

 

[2 strokes 4 life]

Proper gearing for your use. I find the stock 13:48 to be to tall. Just put on a 50 tooth rear and it made a good difference. Plus its a cheaper mod. But +1 on the armour.

 

[Skidad]

Good info so far

Does anyone sell the Force stuff in the States?? Steve, Mark you listening?

Came with the 08 seat so that's good

Not to sure about the Hyde thing. The Meca plate is beautiful though (buddy had one shipped over for his KTM 250).

Scotts looks to be the one for the rear disk guard

The LTR stuff can wait a bit but is on the list now.

Looks like e-line is the only one who makes a carbon fiber guard for the real GG pipe (the bike has this). I will call LTR however and check with him...I called P3 http://pirieperfprod.com/ and although they don't have a guard for the OEM GG pipe if I send them the pipe they will use it to make the mold for a guard...for free. Gets better. He had a brand new FMF Gnarly that he bought just to make a mold for the 07/08 bikes and sold it to me for $175. I think that's a great deal for a brand new Gnarly and you can never have to many pipes if you live in the rocks up here.

Gearing...excellent point. What kind of gearing are you guys with the 300's running for tight rocky, rooty New England type trails? It came with a nice Iron Man sprocket but I think in the stock size. I'll bet I have to gear it down a little for my terrain.

Keep em coming


Skidad

 

[Brian VT]

I have a CF pipe guard but I'd prefer the Hyde. The main problem I have with pipes is bending them into the frame, not dents. Even better than the Hyde would be a cage like I've seen on some Aussie's bikes.
I've been happy with the 13:48. I think a 50 would make 1st gear too much of a creeper and I'd rarely use it. Plus, the road sections are buzzy enough with the 48.

 

[2 strokes 4 life]

Just tried the 50 tooth on my bike and i like it. Pulls the gears much nicer now and first is now good for creeping. First with stock is too tall for the stuff i ride here.

 

[skid jackson]

I've run 12/52 12/50 12/48 13/52

12/52 was way too short

12/50 wasn't too bad but still a bit short, made the bike a bit snappy

12/48 and 13/52 are both 4 to 1 ratio. I think this is my prefered gearing. 13/52 is what is on the bike now. If you want to save a few bucks just buy the 12 for the front and run the 48 that came with the bike.

I ride lots of tight and technical stuff, 46 yr old c rider. Mostly use 1st and 2nd gear with 4 to 1 in the tight stuff.

 

[BILLYBURNS]

I THINK THAT GO-FASTER'S HAS THE MECA SYSTEM STUFF IN STOCK. i HAVE HEARD THAT IT IS EXPENSIVE BUT I SAW IT AT THE ISDE ON THE SLOVAKIAN BIKES AND IT IS SUPER NICE! IF IT WERE ME I WOULD BUY AS MUCH MECA SYSTEM STUFF AS I COULD. I 2ND THE FORCE RADIATOR GUARDS, THE BRP UPPER TRIPLE CLAMP AND THE FASST CO BARS. FACTORY CONNECTION HAS THE NEW ENGLAND SETUP FOR SUSPENSION. PM ME AND I WILL HELP YOU OUT WITH THAT PART IF YOU'D LIKE.

BILLY

 

[Brian VT]

I dunno. It's pretty tight and nasty around here and even with 13:48 I rarely use 1st gear. The 300 will pull 2nd gear, even uphill, from almost a dead stop with just a touch of clutch so I don't see the point in giving up the broader range. To each his own, but I don't like wheelie machines when I'm trying to get through the woods. Maybe the 50+ rear gets you on the pipe faster ? I don't ride on the pipe much so maybe that's why the 48 works well for me.
I ride it like a 3-stroke.

 

[PEB]

Get the HYde combo. What good is a fancy skid plate if your pipe is all wadded up. I just swapped the Hyde combo to my 07 and the pipe on the 02 looked the same as when I put the Hyde on. I did reiforce the bottom of the hyde with a homemade HDPE glide plate. Take this time to wrap your handlebars with teflon tape under the perches which lets them rotate rather than snap. Handguards probably go without saying. I have high hopes for the FLexbars on the new bike, though at this point I can't recomend them as I only rode the bike for less than 10 min. For gearing I have settled on 13/49 which forces me to ride a bit faster in the lock to lock twisties here in WA.

I plan on building radiator guards with LTR type braces on the front coneccted to a beefey side plate that triagulates back to the frame not the engine mount. I'll post some pics when I am done. For now I will run the LTR braces on the front and rely on the previous owners reiforced 04 radiators that he left on the bike( Thanks Brian I love all the little things you did to this bike)

Paul B

 

[2 strokes 4 life]

Yeah i do like to get on the pipe quicker. Of course i bet the 300 pulls the gearing better down low than the 250. But i ride a 250 for the revs anyways. So mabe keep the 13:48.

 

[SpeedyManiac]

I run 13/50 on my 250, 13/52 on my 200. My ISDE bike had 13/48. For tight woods, I like 13/50 as it is manageable on the roads and has great pick up in the woods. Then again I like to control the bike with the throttle/clutch and like having instant power (tried the 200 and 400 cams in the G2 throttle and hated them).

It's worth the trouble of getting Force guards from Australia. Best rad protection available.

 

[eff]

I'm running 13/52 on my bike and love it. 13/48 didn't work at all and was very tough in the tight slow stuff. In between, I ran 13/50 and still have the 50t in my garage and have been thinking of putting it on and giving it a try again.

The 52t is hard on long road sections at 45+ mph, but those are few and far between.

 

[2 strokes 4 life]

I hit a few longer fire roads on my trails thats why i opted for the 50 tooth vs. the 52.

 

[Berkyboy]

We do have some of the Mecca stuff in stock but it is limited and at this point expensive.

Opinions on proper gearing for 250/300s varies but I would recommed a 13t/49t for a good starting point. We have started getting in Renthal sprockets recently (priced both for retail and for dealer) in 12t, 13t and 14t. We have 12t and 13t in DirtTricks, Talon (OEM GasGas) and Rebel Gears.

We also have in stock in 47t-52t rear in a variety of brands including GasGas OEM, Renthal, Dirt Tricks, Moose and Rebel Gears.

13t/51-52-53 is usually reserved for 200s but then again it depends on what your looking for.

Personally I would recommend riding the bike and get a feeling if what you have is working for you.

If your racing enduro a lot and they use 24 mph speed average then I would try to have the meat of second gear, where the throttle is most responsive, right at 18-20 mph. Just my opinion.

 

[GMP]

Another for 13/52 on a 250, but would be way too low on a 300 with that off idle torque. In the NJ stick farms, at little more than walking speed, I like to avoid the downshift to 1st and just use the clutch. Also works well on the steep trials like climbs we have locally. My '07 seems to rev out higher than my previous two GG250s so top speed is not a problem and not a priority anyway. I had no problem hanging with my friend on a KTM520 at the Hancock DS last year, staying reasonably close to the speed limit. If I got a 300 I'd probably start with 13/50.

 

[skid jackson]

I've run 12/52 12/50 12/48 13/52

13/52 is what is on the bike now.

hmmm not any more .... I thought I had run this combo before but now I'm thinking it was 13/50. I concure with gmp too snappy in the tight stuff. pretty good in the quad track stuff though.

Knowing that brian Vt most likely rides similar terrain, and seeing as how I don't have a 50, I put the stock 48 back on. It's been a few years since I've run it. got a feeling it will be the opposite of 13/52 and be too tall for the tight stuff. I'll order a 50 for back up!! I'm on a 300 btw

 

[Skidad]

Sounds like it will be a 49 or 50 tooth. I briefly had a chance to finally ride it for about 20 minutes and I feel the stock 48 will be to tall. To bad because it's an Iron Man sprocket in perfect shape. It will be for sale or trade (along with the older model headlight) when I get some other sprockets to try.

If anyone has a used 49 or 50 tooth sprocket that might have enough life left in them for testing let me know.


Oh, the bike Again only 20 minutes but really cool. I have not done a thing to it yet but was immediately comfortable sitting or standing (felt very similar to my modified 97 250 KTM but lighter), light effortless steering, power is great as you know and lights the rear wheel easily. Revs quicker than my 250 but I kinda like that and jetting doesn't seem to bad. Has Michelin S12 f/b, not sure how those are in the rocks but will use them up. Rear suspension sag is wrong (and PO was same size as me) and I have no clue about clicker settings because he hasn't sent me any manuals. Front forks are leaking and will need to be fixed, the compression screws were all the way turned in. When I turned one of them out the big hex nut around it also turned. Oh, the rear brake was like a toggle switch. Is this normal for these bikes? It does have new pads but jeez it just locked almost instantly. Pedal does need to be lowered for my 6' height and from the looks of it the adjuster screw will need to be shortened to allow this. Front brake was very nice and the hydro clutch is awesome. The headlight it came with after doing some research appears to have come from an early 2000 year model I really want the correct light for the 07 and will see what the PO can do for me since his dad is a GG dealer in PA). I have tons of ideas and lots of questions. This is going to be fun for sure.


Skidad