SpeedyManiac
New member
Hi guys,
I switched to Tire Balls this season and thought I'd let you know how they work. While at the races and riding I've had many people ask me about them, so hear it goes.
For my preparations for the ISDE, I've been working on doing fast tire changes, and minimizing the chances of getting a flat tire. Few riders at the ISDE run tubes; most use Bib Mousses and a few use Tire Balls. I did a lot of research on Bib Mousses and Tire Balls and ended up going with Tire Balls. Here's why:
-Mousses wear out fast (you can expect to have worn out mousses by the end of the ISDE). Tire Balls need to be lubricated (same as Mousses) but I can expect to get many seasons out of them.
-Mousses are a pain in the ass to install in a tire and change tires with. Yes, there's no risk of puncturing the Mousse, but it takes big tire irons and some muscle to get them changed fast. The Tire Balls are relatively easy to change in comparison. The balls are filled with air so there is some give.
-I talked with the Tire Ball company and their customer support is top notch, plus they offered to help me out.
Installation:
I ordered 6 sets (3 front, 3 rear) - 4 sets for the ISDE and 2 for my BC race bike. The cost was substantial, but it would have been the same to go with Bib Mousses and those wear out. Each set comes with a warranty card. I can't remember the details of the warranty - I'll post again later. The Tire Ball set came with: 30 or 40 balls (depending on Front or Rear Tire); Ball and Carcass lube; Bead Lube; Rim Tape; Inflation needle; Inflation Needle lube; Warranty card; Instructions. You can also get a bead clamp and valve stems.
The instructions were very clear and easy to follow. I removed the tire from my wheel, put new duct tape in the center of the rim (alternatively I could have used the strip they included with the balls, but I like duct tape), installed a valve stem (for seating the bead) and rimlock. NOTE: stock GasGas Rimlocks do not work with tire balls. Get some motion pro rimlocks and you're set.
Next, I lubed the tire carcass and balls and installed the balls in the tire (33 front, 27 rear was what fit in my bike). It can get a little tricky getting the last couple balls in the tire.
With the balls in the tire, I lubed up the bead and started to install the tire. I use 3 15 inch 'Michelin style' tire irons and 3 MSR Terry Cable irons. Getting the first bead on was no problem - I've seen a video of Jeff Fredette doing it completely by hand without tire irons. Next, I started at the rimlock, forcing the bead into the rim. Here is where a bead clamp or tire changing stand with bead breaker helps to hold the bead in place. I don't have either (yet - both are on the way) so I kneeled on the tire and tire irons (1 under each knee holding the bead in place) while I got the rest of the bead started. Getting the final part of the bead on the rim is pretty tough (big tire irons are a must unless you're huge - I'm 160lbs so I use 15" irons) but manageable. Using a bead clamp or tire stand helps. Once the tire is on the rim, I used an air compressor to seat the bead, then tightened the rimlock. For time, I can get a tire off the rim in about 45 seconds (sometimes less for ISDE rubber) and installation takes about 90 seconds, sometimes less.
NOTE: Doing front tires or ISDE tires is no problem without additional tools. Big knobby rear tires (I use Kenda Milvilles and Maxxis ITs) are tough, but I've still done them using only tire irons.
Riding Impressions:
The tire balls feel like a tube (there's still air in them) but there's a difference. I can run a lower tire pressure, get better traction and not worry about getting a flat tire! My bike handles way better with tire balls thanks to better traction. This really sold me on them.
Durability:
I pinched a tire ball in half with a tire iron. It didn't pop. That's impressive right there. The only way I can see one going flat is if I puncture it with a nail or similar pointy object. Under normal riding and racing conditions there's no way one will pop.
Conclusions:
I won't ride with tubes again. No, the tire balls aren't cheap, but they're cheaper than Bib Mousses, easier to install and don't give any quirky handling characteristics. For the serious rider, I think they're a no brainer. Check out www.tireballs.com for more info.
I switched to Tire Balls this season and thought I'd let you know how they work. While at the races and riding I've had many people ask me about them, so hear it goes.
For my preparations for the ISDE, I've been working on doing fast tire changes, and minimizing the chances of getting a flat tire. Few riders at the ISDE run tubes; most use Bib Mousses and a few use Tire Balls. I did a lot of research on Bib Mousses and Tire Balls and ended up going with Tire Balls. Here's why:
-Mousses wear out fast (you can expect to have worn out mousses by the end of the ISDE). Tire Balls need to be lubricated (same as Mousses) but I can expect to get many seasons out of them.
-Mousses are a pain in the ass to install in a tire and change tires with. Yes, there's no risk of puncturing the Mousse, but it takes big tire irons and some muscle to get them changed fast. The Tire Balls are relatively easy to change in comparison. The balls are filled with air so there is some give.
-I talked with the Tire Ball company and their customer support is top notch, plus they offered to help me out.
Installation:
I ordered 6 sets (3 front, 3 rear) - 4 sets for the ISDE and 2 for my BC race bike. The cost was substantial, but it would have been the same to go with Bib Mousses and those wear out. Each set comes with a warranty card. I can't remember the details of the warranty - I'll post again later. The Tire Ball set came with: 30 or 40 balls (depending on Front or Rear Tire); Ball and Carcass lube; Bead Lube; Rim Tape; Inflation needle; Inflation Needle lube; Warranty card; Instructions. You can also get a bead clamp and valve stems.
The instructions were very clear and easy to follow. I removed the tire from my wheel, put new duct tape in the center of the rim (alternatively I could have used the strip they included with the balls, but I like duct tape), installed a valve stem (for seating the bead) and rimlock. NOTE: stock GasGas Rimlocks do not work with tire balls. Get some motion pro rimlocks and you're set.
Next, I lubed the tire carcass and balls and installed the balls in the tire (33 front, 27 rear was what fit in my bike). It can get a little tricky getting the last couple balls in the tire.
With the balls in the tire, I lubed up the bead and started to install the tire. I use 3 15 inch 'Michelin style' tire irons and 3 MSR Terry Cable irons. Getting the first bead on was no problem - I've seen a video of Jeff Fredette doing it completely by hand without tire irons. Next, I started at the rimlock, forcing the bead into the rim. Here is where a bead clamp or tire changing stand with bead breaker helps to hold the bead in place. I don't have either (yet - both are on the way) so I kneeled on the tire and tire irons (1 under each knee holding the bead in place) while I got the rest of the bead started. Getting the final part of the bead on the rim is pretty tough (big tire irons are a must unless you're huge - I'm 160lbs so I use 15" irons) but manageable. Using a bead clamp or tire stand helps. Once the tire is on the rim, I used an air compressor to seat the bead, then tightened the rimlock. For time, I can get a tire off the rim in about 45 seconds (sometimes less for ISDE rubber) and installation takes about 90 seconds, sometimes less.
NOTE: Doing front tires or ISDE tires is no problem without additional tools. Big knobby rear tires (I use Kenda Milvilles and Maxxis ITs) are tough, but I've still done them using only tire irons.
Riding Impressions:
The tire balls feel like a tube (there's still air in them) but there's a difference. I can run a lower tire pressure, get better traction and not worry about getting a flat tire! My bike handles way better with tire balls thanks to better traction. This really sold me on them.
Durability:
I pinched a tire ball in half with a tire iron. It didn't pop. That's impressive right there. The only way I can see one going flat is if I puncture it with a nail or similar pointy object. Under normal riding and racing conditions there's no way one will pop.
Conclusions:
I won't ride with tubes again. No, the tire balls aren't cheap, but they're cheaper than Bib Mousses, easier to install and don't give any quirky handling characteristics. For the serious rider, I think they're a no brainer. Check out www.tireballs.com for more info.
