Tranny Failure

[gasgasman]

Got the side cover off. Here are some photos. I see nothing wrong from this side. I can get the motor to turn over by turning the clutch basket. So, I guess I will be splitting the cases after I give the bike a bath.

Looks like the spring popped off the shift drum.

 

[Jacob 'Berg]

Looks like the spring popped off the shift drum.

The spring popped off the scorpion plate when I was futzing with the shifter, with the inside cover off. The problem is in the transmission somewhere. The bottom and top end cycle through fine after the clutch pack was removed, but the shifter and counter shaft are locked up tight.

 

[twowheels]

You're most of the way there. Keep track of which screws go in which holes when you split the cases and tap but do not pry them if needed to split.

 

[Jacob 'Berg]

Cylinder not looking so good. Probably due to an airboot fitment issue I was having. Can the cylinder be re-plated as is, or am I better off replacing it?

All that is left is to pull the jug, pull the motor out of the frame, and open the cases to see what is going on with the transmission.

 

[Zman]

you can replate the cylinder.

 

[Jacob 'Berg]

you can replate the cylinder.

Any recommendations for who to send it to?

 

[memphis2857]

These guys do a good job and customer service is great. http://www.powersealusa.com


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[pscook]

I don't see any issues with the plating; ie: no flaking or peeling. I see little dots, are those pinholes? I still see crosshatching, which means (to me) that it's still in decent shape. What issues are you seeing in person?

If you need to replate, other options to Powerseal are Langcourt (I had great experience, as have others), Millenium Technologies (not so great experience, as have others). and USChrome (no feedback, but have heard their name often enough).

 

[savage sausage]

damn that bruce jenner...sorry i mean caitlin it's the tranny's worst nightmare.

 

[Jacob 'Berg]

I don't see any issues with the plating; ie: no flaking or peeling. I see little dots, are those pinholes? I still see crosshatching, which means (to me) that it's still in decent shape. What issues are you seeing in person?

If you need to replate, other options to Powerseal are Langcourt (I had great experience, as have others), Millenium Technologies (not so great experience, as have others). and USChrome (no feedback, but have heard their name often enough).

The vertical striations are what concern me. They fill rough when I run my finger nail over them. I do not see any flaking, peeling, or pinholes. I could probably throw the new piston and rings and run it without issue....but I would rather be safe than sorry.

 

[GGRider01]

You've come this far, might as well get a replate. Have you split the cases yet?

 

[twowheels]

The vertical striations are what concern me. They fill rough when I run my finger nail over them. I do not see any flaking, peeling, or pinholes. I could probably throw the new piston and rings and run it without issue....but I would rather be safe than sorry.

Scotchbrite and cleaner and then see what they feel like. If you end up replating send a new piston along and you get a perfectly matched set.

 

[Zman]

The plating looks different around the port area. I recently saw a similar change in color on a 2003 300 where the plating wore through and it was down to the aluminum base metal. US Chrome does a good Job for replates.
http://www.usnicom.com/

If you are looking for more power you can have Ryan Callies port it before the replate. http://finishlineengines.com/ Ryan also works at US Chrome.

 

[Jacob 'Berg]

Primary and secondary gear #6 both toast. The secondary gear blew apart. Secondary shaft, one of the shift forks, and shifter fork shaft also knackered. Not sure how this happened, any insight?

 

[Jacob 'Berg]

My plan is to pick up a complete bottom end from a 2004 and swap the transmission into the 2011. At least then I will have some spare cases and crank for the 2011 or the 2005.

The only part # that does not match up is the secondary shaft. Any clue if this will work OK, or should I shell out the additional cash for a new 2011
shaft?

 

[Jacob 'Berg]

Anything else I should replace while I have her opened up?

Crank is tight. Needs a new crank seal, as there was some dirt inside the seal.

 

[twowheels]

While you're there you might as well put crank bearings in. Check the trans bearings too, and clean them very carefully if you decide you're going to keep them. Add a shift fork or two to your list and check the math.

I wouldn't trust the parts fiche () - give Mark a call to make sure you're getting the right pieces, part numbers be damned.

 

[gasmonkey]

Looks very familiar.Do a search for my thread ' ec250 implosion 'back in 2010.Was repaired with new bits and has been ok since.Hasn't had much use thou.
Once you get ya head around how everything works,it's not all that complicated really.

 

[Zman]

With all that metal running around in the trans I would change the trans bearings too. You can get most or all of them from the local bearing shop or industrial supply store. These numbers may help you but you should check them against what is in your engine. The two numbers on the right are grainger numbers.
Counter shaft bearing 6305C3 4ZXJ1
Countershaft Seal 30x40x7
Clutch bearing 6205Zc3E
Trans shafts 6203c3 4zxe8

 

[booth]

I just put my bike together and ran it yesterday.

Motor everything ran great, about 2 hours into the ride while climbing a massive dune, hit at 3/4 throttle wide open in 5th gear, half way up while changing to 4th, motor started laboring and bike slowed down.

Get down the hill and would not cycle through the gears smoothly.

Ride a bit further and engagement became smooth, but engaging 5th and 6th gear there is a "clicking" sound that happens, think I might also have transmission damage.....