Transnission shift shaft.

[Trailrider]

Will try to make thiis short. Took a muddy ride with my new Hammerhead shift lever. It bent like a pretzel in mud. The real problem is the shift shaft appears angled rearward but still shifts and does not leak.
What's the consession, if it ain't broke don't fix or a complete tear down. Can the gear shaft be replaced without complete disassemble? Any suggestions, I'm 56 and don't ride much or I would buy a new one. Please no jokes, I recently had a stroke and this was going to be part of my exercise, walking ariound the neighborhood is not my thing.
Help,
Trailrider



2001 XC300

 

[Catarallus]

My english is not good but i will try it.

- First you have to dumping the cooling water of the engine.
- Then cut off the shift shaft near the engine case.
- Lay down the motorcycle on the left site
- Take the right ( big ) engine-cover apart.
- Then you can pull out the shift shaft trough the enginge case.

 

[jostby]

As long as it isn't leaking oil you can leave it. If it's binding or the looks of it being crooked bug you it really isn't hard to replace. Like Catarallus said, you have to cut off the splined end as close to the case as possible, a clean cut, no torching it off. The bend will keep it from coming out. That's why you have to cut it off.
Pull the right side cover and for the most part it just slides right out. I don't remember if you have to remove the internal kickstart ratcheting gears. If you do, keep them matched for easy assembly.

 

[stevethebrit]

Don't you have to just remove right-side cover and the clutch basket? The kick gears shouldn't be in the way. Have done the same job on an YZ, but never an EC, so I could be mistaken.

 

[Catarallus]

The kick gear's have not to be removed. By the clutch basket i'm not sure.

 

[slocalspode]

Trailrider wrote:
"The real problem is the shift shaft appears angled rearward but
still shifts and does not leak."

Does it look like this?

A buddy of mine dropped my GG250 on a trail ride and bent my shift
shaft too.
I sent the motor to Smackover Racing, back when they were still around,
they replaced the shaft without having to split the cases.
It has been working great ever since.
Jeff, so. cal.

 

[jostby]

Dang, that sucker was really tweaked!!

No you don't have to split the main case.
Yes, you do have to remove both right side clutch covers (large and small). And that would include the water pump cover and draining the coolant.

 

[gasser]

The clutch basket does not have to be removed.

 

[iancp5]

It's pretty easy if it isn't bent very much. Remove the side case opposite side to shift lever. You remove a couple of pieces, can't remember exactly and knock the shaft through with a suitable SOFT drift.

If it's bent a lot this will damage the holes in cases that it operates through so not so easy you will have to cut the splined, bent end off first close to the seal or maybe inside the seal. Has to be a judgement call. But if it's not leaking and you can still change gear ok leave it.

 

[Trailrider]

Shift shaft

SloCalSpode mine does not look anything like that. The splines are good, just a slight bend to the rear. It shifted and I rode it in with mangled shift lever.
I will try to get a pic or two, not very good at uploading pictures.
Time will tell, I picking up my shifters today, had him lenthen the stock one, may try that first.
Regards,
Jim

 

[iancp5]

SloCalSpode mine does not look anything like that. The splines are good, just a slight bend to the rear. It shifted and I rode it in with mangled shift lever.

Sounds like mine was. I just knocked it out and fitted a new one and new seal.

 

[GMP]

What I would do is cut it off close to flush with the seal, and clean up the burrs. Remove the primary cover and clutch, and if it doesn't slide out easy stop. Next I'd protect the surrounding area with rags and go to work with a dremel or die grinder, removing the welds and fork, and slide it through the other way out the countershaft side. May take awhile but I do not like the idea of forcing a bent steel shaft through holes in alloy cases.

 

[Trailrider]

Shift shaft

Hate to sound like an old man (I am) but it sounds like the shaft slides out and a new one goes on no proplem? I restore vintage Suzukis and that's
about what it is, aside from moving a few parts out of the way. The new shaft is about $175, if my bike runs alright I may forgo the shaft, it is a 10 year old bike. BTW I will go back the the stock shift lever, having it extended, size 13 feet.
Found a good welder, he has 8 Harleys from the 1960s on.
Anyway, thanks for the help,
Jim

 

[Cruiser]

I had to replace mine just a couple years ago,, was only $75,, just the bare shaft, the complete assemnbly with the springs and such was $120 or so.. $175 sounds high.. And yes,, old one slides out, new one in,, just have to cut off the bent part or it will jam going thru the case.. I took out two,, bent one and the weld one the fork end went on another,, two different bikes.. 10 years on a GG is nothing,, I have a 97 and its still a good bike.. see if you can roust up Jim Cook of Smackover fame,, he might have some old used parts taking up space..Good luck and have fun..

 

[Trailrider]

Shift shaft

OK guys, looks like I will be replacing the shift shaft. What other parts will I need when I call GoFasters on Tuesday? It's bent back at just too much of an angle for me. Yes I have Dremel and most of the usual tools.
Steve we've dealt before, my oldest was a 1998 6-days, have dwindled down from 3 to my one 300 now.
I have changed a shift pawl, water impeller (LTR) and done top ends on Gassers but that's about it until this freak occurance.Would like to get another 10 years out or her.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Trailrider Jim

 

[GMP]

If you've done a shift pawl or "scorpion", your almost there. You need new shaft assy, shaft seal, side cover gasket, and depending on if its been bent back once already the clutch basket lockwasher. Leave the sidecover together as a unit(waterpump and clutch cover) and you should not have to replace the gaskets.

Look things over and take your time, don't brutalize anything. If it won't come out from the clutch side it will be a lot more work grinding the claw off but at least you will not risk damaging the cases.