Tubless options

lankydoug

New member
Besides the Tubliss set up why not run a tubeless rim like the trials bikes have or seal a regular rim and use rim locks or screws to secure the bead? Drag cars use screws and only about 5 psi with tubeless slicks to secure tires with over 1000 HP applied at the starting line. It seems that the weight savings and not having to deal with the tubliss system would be worth it in the long run. Has anyone tried this?
 
Before I did the Tubliss system I considered lacing trials wheels to my hubs. The spoke layout is not the same. It would be nice though.
 
Before I did the Tubliss system I considered lacing trials wheels to my hubs. The spoke layout is not the same. It would be nice though.

It seems to me there would be a market for tubeless enduro/mx rims considering the advantages. A lot of money gets spent on a lot less effective products.
 
I was thinking about picking up a used wheel and hub set, sealing up the spokes and laying out and drilling it for wheel screws. As long as the rims are thick enough at the bead I don't see why it wouldn't work.
 
Trials rims are also way too light duty for use on a woods bike.

In theory your idea would work, but every time you tightened a spoke you would compromise the seal. Also, when the wheel hits an obstacle, forces that want to move the bead from the rim may eaisly tear it away from small self tapping screws, cars have no such issue to deal with. Any rim damage like a small dent, especially where the lip is bent back away from the bead would mean instant flat. Finally, tire changes would be a nightmare. Have you tried the Tubliss system?
 
I was talking to the Husaberg engineer at the Texas National Enduro and he said guys in Europe are siliconing the area around the spokes on the inside of the rim and using a car type valve stem.
 
It seems to me there would be a market for tubeless enduro/mx rims considering the advantages. A lot of money gets spent on a lot less effective products.


I have often said that the Tubliss system is the best modification I have ever added to a dirt bike. In fact if I had to choose between handguards and Tubliss, I choose Tubliss.
 
The tubliss also becomes a beadlock, similar to what is used in some of the off road jeep rockcrawler wheels. The concept is sound and not just to seal the tire,, but to lock it onto the bead all the way around the rim..great concept.. just wish I was the one who brought it to market..
 
At first I thought it was another money wasting gimmick, but it is a pretty awesome product.
After a friend had one on his bike for about 6 months without any problems...I knew I had to try it.
Here's what I think are the plusses.
1. It keeps water out of the inner wheel...which has been a real issue and was starting to etch the inner rim.
2. Bead-lock, I have been as low as 4psi and that in it's self was key in getting thru some tricky sections.
3. Easy to change...once you have done it a couple of times it's so much easier than a UHD tube and 2 rim locks.
So far...no down side in 6 months.
 
I plan on trying the tubliss set up with a MT 43. I'm thinking of going from a 48 to a 51 tooth rear sprocket while I have the wheel off. I'm trying to make my bike more like a tractor to get through the leaf covered sharp rocks in Arkansas where I have been riding lately. I've been creeping up on the set up that I'm looking for and this should get me there.
 
It seems to me there would be a market for tubeless enduro/mx rims considering the advantages. A lot of money gets spent on a lot less effective products.

I think I'm right in saying the Kawasaki Works MX team developed a tubeless system in the '80's. It wasn't succesful, but I can't remember why :o I will ask someone who will know and report back. The specially made tyres had a taller bead and a slightly smaller i/d than conventional tyres.
 
+3 on moto9's comments. I run 9 PSI up front in the technical rocks, a bit more if its faster with some rocks and less if its smoother. In all cases the M59 sticks like glue. Six weeks in a row of rock bashing rides and no problems. One less extreme day out with Cruiser on some better dirt was awesome too. Rim is fine, has a few black marks now but less than you get with a tube. VERY pleased, I'm done with tubes.
 
Too many riders love the tubliss system for me to not give it a try. No matter the tire it should work better by being able to run less air pressure when desired. Reliability seems to not be a problem for those who install it correctly and use a little slime.
 
I plan on trying the tubliss set up with a MT 43. I'm thinking of going from a 48 to a 51 tooth rear sprocket while I have the wheel off

This is the set up I currently am running. With the Tubliss I can run my MT43 down to 6-7 lbs. without fear. This time of year in Oregon, things can start to get very slick. With the MT43 at the low pressure, I can climb crazy slick steep stuff without slipping a tire. Very beneficial IMO.

BTW, I am running 13/52 on my KTM300. This gearing along with a FWW and Gnarly pipe allows me to climb very techinical terrain without a problem. It is even a little better than my EC250 with the MT43.
 
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