TUBliss gen2
- Thread starter Stamper
- Start date
hadfield4wd
New member
I run both. I have Gen2’s on my sons bike and nitro mousse on my bike.
I have only about 5 rides on the mousse so far.
You can change pressure on the Gen2’s and run really low, however I have a total of 2 plugs in the rear tire and 1 in the front. While the repair is simple and faster than changing a tube I went with the mousse to eliminate needing to stop at all.
Initially the mousse is much firmer.
Also I’m not running identical tires yet either. Next set of tires for my sons bike will be the same as mine. I’ll be able to give a full review then.
I have the Tubliss Gen 2. Noticeably more expensive than Gen 1, but has thicker material on the inner tube. Everthing else looks the same.
My Gen 1 front inner tube failed where the high pressure valve stem is located. The valve stem is above the inside of the rim due to the valve stem nut thickness. This nut is essential since the stem is a constant diameter. The nut prevents the stem from extruding out the rim hole when pressurized.
The height difference stretches the inner tube more when it expands under pressure. The same failure point was evident in the rear Gen 1 tube, it just had not failed yet. The extra thickness of the Gen 2 tube should reduce this tendency. I also machined the stem nut to better fit the rim to reduce the height difference and improve the situation.
The Tubliss works well; however you need to check the high pressure side every few weeks. It bleeds down gradually; mine goes from 100psi to 80psi in 3-4 weeks. On the low pressure side I run 12psi front and 8psi rear. The low pressure does not vary.
I have no experience with a mousse. The mousse is likely a simpler system and might be less effort overall.
My Gen 1 front inner tube failed where the high pressure valve stem is located. The valve stem is above the inside of the rim due to the valve stem nut thickness. This nut is essential since the stem is a constant diameter. The nut prevents the stem from extruding out the rim hole when pressurized.
The height difference stretches the inner tube more when it expands under pressure. The same failure point was evident in the rear Gen 1 tube, it just had not failed yet. The extra thickness of the Gen 2 tube should reduce this tendency. I also machined the stem nut to better fit the rim to reduce the height difference and improve the situation.
The Tubliss works well; however you need to check the high pressure side every few weeks. It bleeds down gradually; mine goes from 100psi to 80psi in 3-4 weeks. On the low pressure side I run 12psi front and 8psi rear. The low pressure does not vary.
I have no experience with a mousse. The mousse is likely a simpler system and might be less effort overall.
swazi_matt
Active member
If you like the feel and benefits of running lower pressure (or higher) and do not mind stopping for 15 minutes to plug a tube?
Tyres tend to grip longer - lower pressure grip rather than spin
Once your mousse has reached optimum pressure it possibly as good in grip (possibly better) but dead, the tyre doesn’t bounce, more like a wet sponge
Tyres tend to grip longer - lower pressure grip rather than spin
Once your mousse has reached optimum pressure it possibly as good in grip (possibly better) but dead, the tyre doesn’t bounce, more like a wet sponge
hadfield4wd
New member
I’ve heard that about the “dead feel”. I’m still working through some things on my setup. But that is part of the reason I chose the Nitro Mousse. Its supposed to help with that. Honestly I haven’t noticed yet. They are noticeably heavier too. I am waiting for a new rear tire to show up. Kenda is sending me a replacement Ibex.
I did run my tubliss at 8psi front and 6 psi rear for technical stuff.
I have a question about tire punctures. If I was to run a regular heavy duty tube at the same pressure as the tubliss, would you get the same puncture? Also, If that same puncture was to occur with a mousse, would the tire and mousse run the risk of getting water inside of the tire or absorbed into the puncture of the mousse which would add a considerable amount of weight.
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swazi_matt
Active member
the nito's apparently have a very good feel out the box (unlike other mousses that need time to get to the sweet-spot) and reports show very long lifespan with some racers here using one set for the full year rather than 2 races.Cheers for the replies. Seems to be a lot of pros and cons for both. Unsure if stopping for 15mins during a Hare scramble to plug a tire would suit. What are the life span of the mousse?
stopping to plug a hole is not always necessary, i have had some holes that could not be pluged and i rode 50km of rocky terrain with the flat tire and just tried to find the best lines possible. no damage to rim. the tubliss system works as a 360 degree rimlock so the flat tire does not come off and the inner system also works as a bumper so you are not really riding on the rim. At my last race (i was not really racing) i did the last 10km of thorny rock enduro with a flat because i was enjoying the race too much to stop. I ended up with so may plugs in the tire at the pits preparing for the next day that it looked like a rastafarian tire with dreds, i decided to stop being cheap and just fitted a new tire for the last day.
The problem with UHD tube and low pressure is that you run the chance of getting a snakebite puncture when the tube gets pinched between rim and a rock, you cannot get that with tubliss.
Basically what i tell everyone is if you cannot afford to stop to plug a tire then use a mousse, otherwise use tubliss - tubes should not be an option. You don't see anyone running tubes in their cars anymore!
hadfield4wd
New member
I went to tubliss because I was changing too many tubes at my trailer. So yes you’ll get a puncture especially when you drop pressure to 4-8psi.
As far as mousse and puncture. I don’t think its an issue at all. Especially since they are lubbed up good with grease. The mousse takes up all the room in the tire and its basically closed cell foam so it doesn’t soak it up. Water will barely get in if at all. My tire had a broken bead and was coming out of the rim. As I didn’t have a spare wheel etc I just rode it that way so I could keep riding. I had no issue with water getting in. And thats a bigger area than a puncture would be.
I have 4years and thousands of offroad miles on the tubliss setup. Many of them with a completely flat rear s12. The traction is unreal, with the completely flat tire you will eventually wear the red outer casing out and twice I have had the inner high pressure tube develop a leak where it goes around the rim lock. Both times the high pressure tube was more than a year old.
hadfield4wd
New member
Of course now I've just jinxed it all by saying that but maybe our terrain has less snakes
You’re screwed now! Better brush off your plug kit.
It all depends on where I ride. I can run all year on my local stuff we hit PA for a group ride with some good friends and 4 of 12 will have a flat.
All my mates run tublis and not one of us has had a puncture in the last 2 years since we became disciples to the original adoptor.
Of course now I've just jinxed it all by saying that but maybe our terrain has less snakes
Did you get to use your plug kit yesterday!!!
Went for TUBliss, main reason is they have longer life span. Won't be pushing for podium places so pulling over for 5mins won't be much of an inconvenience. Also got a good deal on them!! Any recommendations for a SMALL plug kit that will not be too heavy and fit in a back pack. TIA
Motosportz
New member
I'm running Gen2 with an IBEX at about 7 psi and freaking love that setup for NW slimy woods riding. Have had zero issues so far. Mounting the front one up tonight (was waiting for my GT216 fatty to wear out).
I got a Kenda Washougal (non sticky) for the front as I was not sure my favorite GT216 fatty would be good with tubliss (heard it is not).
Any recommendations for fronts with tubliss for slick gnar?
I got a Kenda Washougal (non sticky) for the front as I was not sure my favorite GT216 fatty would be good with tubliss (heard it is not).
Any recommendations for fronts with tubliss for slick gnar?
I have 14 months on the gt216 fatty on front of my bike all with tubliss. I normally run 6-8 in front and 2-4 in 505 cheater rear. I finally just ordered another front as it has shed about 1/4 of the side knobs. I got over 200 hrs out of this last fatty front. What's the supposed problem with the fatty and tubliss?
