Waay quieter engine. Wish I'd done this ages ago

[(F5)]

Well the various PV rattles that are all part of GG ownership are actually not. Or at least not as bad as I thought. I used to get various buzzing & a clunk on deceleration, so after watching that Youtube vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dI0fUUHaDjQ

it was worth a look to see if the lower lever for the PV was hitting the cases. I'd adjusted the slack out from the early days, but behold, yes the lever was hitting the cases. Clunk. buzz, yeah I could see it.

Instead of bending that lever I took it off (don't forget gas torch on the upper nylock nut or it will shear) & hit the corner of the rivet that holds the wire on & that was enough to clear the case considerably. I dressed the inside so the burrs didn't rub in the wire.

A mate's bike I worked on wasn't like this & his bike was always quieter than mine. So what's the diff?

My bet is the wire is different lengths.

Also thinking about it, people report when they adjust the slack out of the system that they gain low end even though it should in theory be opening earlier. I was thinking & realised that untethered, the PV will open under the pressure of the engine running. Don't find that likely? Well look at the after-market PV Banshee cylinders (based on Rotax's RAVE valve), they have a diaphragm behind a sprung PV that gets pushed out of the way to open. So tie it back to the & governor & it will be actually controlling things.


Anyhoo. Trail ride yesterday & (along with junking the '07 chain guide if it can be called that & fitting an '11 one) the bike was like running a new engine, everything was much smoother & quieter.

Wish I'd done it ages ago.

 

[Moto7man]

Good writeup! I'm going to check mine now.

 

[Jakobi]

Good work F5. I wonder if it would occassionally jam in position aswell causing those other issues you'd have where it would just fall on its face on you.

 

[(F5)]

in unrelated news I also found on mine that the (top) triangle plate would rub a little on the wire at close to full rotation. Now that is likely as I sheared the bolt off the triangle plate when I couldn't be bothered heating the nylock nut & had to weld on a new bolt, but possibly it was a fraction less stand off at the back causing the wire to get a smidge closer.

But also the wire was bent around a little off square, so fixing that got rid of the issue.

Indeed some of the issues I've had may be slightly related, but mostly carb I still feel. I also took the float needle out & lightly sanded the brass section in case there was a burr or tightness that hung up the float needle when on a lean.

I did a few uphills yesterday with no drama, but they weren't that long (but were steep). The downhills were long & were even steeper. Had me a bit scared & the last thing I was thinking about was the engine running (actually I was blipping every so often just to be clear).