What brand of jet kit is this?

nknudsen

Member
Does any one recognize this jet kit? It came in my 2000 and could be that old also. I have a hunch it's a LT racing but does anyone know for sure? It has an obnoxious lean decel in standard form. One clip richer helped some on decel. Any info on what needle it might be would be great. The bike came from Smackover when new and I'd guess this did too. Thanks!
 

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Does any one recognize this jet kit? It came in my 2000 and could be that old also. I have a hunch it's a LT racing but does anyone know for sure? It has an obnoxious lean decel in standard form. One clip richer helped some on decel. Any info on what needle it might be would be great. The bike came from Smackover when new and I'd guess this did too. Thanks!

LTR, same as my kit....a little different....mine is for a 2hundo
 

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Hi Rick, have you altered yours from what LTR specs it at? Does yours have a lean sounding decel or rev down when engine braking?
 
No....it is fat..... My kit has been in my kit carby since I bought the bike back in 00. Serious!
I ride it all 4 season's same getting and from sea level to 6k
It will idle no problem, no hanging idle either. Is it perfect...no...like i stated..it's fat to protect the vital parts. But my crab is wore out sloppy.

Like all LTR kits the needle ID numbers are filed off. Can't member what the needle is. GMP would know.
 
CCJ, CCK, DDK, in that order, depending on the age of the kit. DDK was the last, in '03.

Noah,

You likely have the old kit, CCJ/CCK was a bit lean in some 250s. I would suggest three needles in decreasing order of $$:

JD Blue, hard to beat for max power in a 250
NECF, nice and smooth, excellent milage
DDK, pretty close, cheap too


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
CCJ, CCK, DDK, in that order, depending on the age of the kit. DDK was the last, in '03.

Noah,

You likely have the old kit, CCJ/CCK was a bit lean in some 250s. I would suggest three needles in decreasing order of $$:

JD Blue, hard to beat for max power in a 250
NECF, nice and smooth, excellent milage
DDK, pretty close, cheap too


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Thank you Glenn! The bike also came with N1EC, N1EE, N1EG needles. Are these even worth trying?
 
Those are the standard OEM family of needles that have been included with the bikes for years. In the old carbs, they can work OK sometimes due to the richer F diameter the carb prefers. Not that good in the newer carbs.

The needle you have is better in a 300 due to the stronger signal. I had the same issue in an '03 250 with a slight lean condition and flat torque, the DDK with its richer taper was a lot better. Back then there were fewer needles to choose from. If you like smooth power order a NECF and NEDF. That will cover half clip adjustments. I think these work real well and do not cut low end torque due to the same richer F dia. The JD Blue is where its at for max thrust and more of a midrange hit, and also gives outstanding milage. I ran for 2 hours Sunday on a very fast course, no pit, and drained a gallon out of my tank Monday, amazing!
 
Those are the standard OEM family of needles that have been included with the bikes for years. In the old carbs, they can work OK sometimes due to the richer F diameter the carb prefers. Not that good in the newer carbs.

The needle you have is better in a 300 due to the stronger signal. I had the same issue in an '03 250 with a slight lean condition and flat torque, the DDK with its richer taper was a lot better. Back then there were fewer needles to choose from. If you like smooth power order a NECF and NEDF. That will cover half clip adjustments. I think these work real well and do not cut low end torque due to the same richer F dia. The JD Blue is where its at for max thrust and more of a midrange hit, and also gives outstanding milage. I ran for 2 hours Sunday on a very fast course, no pit, and drained a gallon out of my tank Monday, amazing!

Great info! My riding partner just got a 13' 300 pumpkin and did the JD kit. I need to see what needle he didn't use. Will the AS2 needles fit the older AS1 carb?
 
Yes, needles are the same design as far as fit but the new carbs like leaner diameters, so do not take any advice here without this being very clear. All my experience is with the older carbs like yours.

The JD needles for the PWKs are the same, so a Blue from a KTM kit is the same as a Blue from a GG kit. If he has a Blue, grab it. Forget the Red, way too lean of a jump in dia., unless your at high altitude. My bike pinged, rattled, surged, etc., had to stop after only a few minutes to change it on the trail.
 
CCJ, CCK, DDK, in that order, depending on the age of the kit. DDK was the last, in '03.

Noah,

You likely have the old kit, CCJ/CCK was a bit lean in some 250s. I would suggest three needles in decreasing order of $$:

JD Blue, hard to beat for max power in a 250
NECF, nice and smooth, excellent milage
DDK, pretty close, cheap too


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

My LTR needle measures around 2.66-2.68mm on the thick section. Is this a early lean needle?
 
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Noah,

2.66mm to 2.68mm covers three diameters! Maybe get a better caliper, or compare to a known dia. needle. Accounting for some error and maybe wear on the needle, plus age, I'd guess its the CCJ.

diameters:

J = 2.685mm
K = 2.695mm

When I said early needle being leaner I was refering to the C series taper. The first needle was a CCJ, J being a faily rich dia. CCK came next (one step leaner dia., then DDK with of course the richer D taper.
 
Noah,

2.66mm to 2.68mm covers three diameters! Maybe get a better caliper, or compare to a known dia. needle. Accounting for some error and maybe wear on the needle, plus age, I'd guess its the CCJ.

diameters:

J = 2.685mm
K = 2.695mm

When I said early needle being leaner I was refering to the C series taper. The first needle was a CCJ, J being a faily rich dia. CCK came next (one step leaner dia., then DDK with of course the richer D taper.

Ok, I measured again with a better caliper. It measures out at .1045" or 2.654 mm. The bike runs great, idles down fine but just has a non uniform decel sound. It sounds lean to me but then I would think it would have idle hanging issues? Or do these bikes just sound off on decel? A 50 pilot doesn't seem to help the issue. It reminds me of if you ride a bike with the fuel shut off by mistake and the carb is almost empty. The hollow & non uniform engine decel sound it makes if that makes sense? This is the only run ability issue it has and is pretty minor but some what annoying.:confused: At that measurement, is it the older lean needle?
 
Update on old post and carb issue.

Here's some info on an old post I've forgotten to update. My lean decel or pipe popping ended up being that the slide was set to high. I had set it up to idle for days at a nice rpm when I first got the bike running, but it had this lean sounding decel issue. About a year ago I lowered the slide/rpm, the idle isn't as great but the annoying decel issue is gone. This after trying multiple pilot, main, needles, slides and A/S settings.:mad:
 
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