What fork springs are you guys using for your specific weight?
- Thread starter 95jersey
- Start date
I am 190 naked. I just upgraded to .46F and 5.4S
I had a 5.2 rear and had to over tighten the pre-load to get the right sag.
mtnmanseth
Member
180 lbs nekkid / ~205 ride ready, B rider
.46 up front, 5.6 rear
.46 up front, 5.6 rear
You are my weight. You are WAY to heavy for .40 and you are too heavy for .42 and 5.2.
The harshness you are feeling is that your suspension is only working in the bottom part of the stroke. In order to get softer and more compliant you need to go stiffer.
A .42 and 5.2 is for someone under 175lbs with gear.
TheLetterJ
New member
You guys are really going to dislike my setup then!
230lbs in gear
.46 fork
5.8 shock
I don't have my exact preload and sag numbers (or fork oil height) handy, though they are written in a notebook somewhere in my garage. I do know that the rear of the GG is at 95-100mm race sag, and I run minimal preload up front. Forks feel good as far as springs, the shock could stand going up to a 6.0 spring and it needs more low speed comp.
I've been running 1-2 rates softer than recommended in the fork on all my bikes for the last 9 or 10 years. On my faster/desert bikes, I usually run 1 rate higher than recommended in the rear too. I'm very tall, with monkey arms, so I tend to get my weight further back than the average rider when going straight while up on the pegs.
230lbs in gear
.46 fork
5.8 shock
I don't have my exact preload and sag numbers (or fork oil height) handy, though they are written in a notebook somewhere in my garage. I do know that the rear of the GG is at 95-100mm race sag, and I run minimal preload up front. Forks feel good as far as springs, the shock could stand going up to a 6.0 spring and it needs more low speed comp.
I've been running 1-2 rates softer than recommended in the fork on all my bikes for the last 9 or 10 years. On my faster/desert bikes, I usually run 1 rate higher than recommended in the rear too. I'm very tall, with monkey arms, so I tend to get my weight further back than the average rider when going straight while up on the pegs.
Just as i got the bike i tried .45 and 5.4 front was like rock hard and rear was ok but 5.2 was better
My static and race sag is fine with 5.2
Problem is that front suspension is working oppositely, i only use 1/3 - 2/3 of travel. I have wp mxma4800 forks and have read that most of the guys puts .4 if used in two stroke.
Also racetech suggests 0.416 and 5.32 for my weight.
I remember changing rear spring to one step harder than oem on my xr650r ant that was terrible idea. It made fast compression even worse and i had to go back to oem spring.
Strange I am bottoming out my forks with .42 pretty bad. Just sitting on the bike they drop mm ore than an inch. But I have zooks not WPA.
memphis2857
New member
250 before gear and I run .50 up front and a 6.4 on the rear. 2015 300
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memphis2857
New member
I found this and believe it to be fairly accurate.
The chart for the rear is not even in the ballpark for a heavier rider. I’m 260lbs and was running a 6.8 on my 15. On my 18’ I run a 6.9. Front seems fairly close though
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My tuner and I have been in discussions with RaceTech about 2108 Gasser springs.
There is only one guy there (in the tech dept) that has dealt with the GG KYB issue. He has outfitted a few 2018 Gassers with springs and can advise you on spring rates. But he has to go with his personal application list. Ya can?t try to use the YZ shock chart because the leverage is different.
Sooooo... waiting for him to get back to work on Monday to figure out the part number, cuz nobody else has the knack.
There is only one guy there (in the tech dept) that has dealt with the GG KYB issue. He has outfitted a few 2018 Gassers with springs and can advise you on spring rates. But he has to go with his personal application list. Ya can?t try to use the YZ shock chart because the leverage is different.
Sooooo... waiting for him to get back to work on Monday to figure out the part number, cuz nobody else has the knack.
Im around 105kg (235lb) in the nip.
On my 2011 im running 5.8 on the rear and have to crank the preload to get close to 110sag, yet my mates 5.2 on his 2003 yields similar results! Going to pull the linkages and see if there is a difference.
SSS on the front with 0.44 springs are beating the life out of me (fast or slow speeds) no better than my 45mm marzocchis at the min for my use.
I think I need to go to 6.0/6.2 on the back to back off the preload and keep the head angle right so the forks work properly at the same time increasing the front to 0.48/0.5.
On my 2011 im running 5.8 on the rear and have to crank the preload to get close to 110sag, yet my mates 5.2 on his 2003 yields similar results! Going to pull the linkages and see if there is a difference.
SSS on the front with 0.44 springs are beating the life out of me (fast or slow speeds) no better than my 45mm marzocchis at the min for my use.
I think I need to go to 6.0/6.2 on the back to back off the preload and keep the head angle right so the forks work properly at the same time increasing the front to 0.48/0.5.
swazi_matt
Active member
Surely with all the differing suspension components on GG from year to year and also between models of the same year (sachs, WP, Marzocchi, reiger, kyb) this is all a bit superficial. And when you take into account the differing rider skill levels, type of terrain etc. it makes the pinch-of-salt even bigger.
I think there are a few key things that should be guiding your choice of spring. The first is obviously your sag (you can even do it for the front but a lot less accurately – rider sag should be about 33% of the total travel – but better to just see if you are using all of your available travel (without bottoming out where you shouldn’t) this can be done by putting a zip tie around your fork stanchion and seeing where it is sitting at the end of a ride)
The second thing is to work with a tuner – you can go with non-standard setup like soft valving and hard springs for example. If you are buying your springs from the tuner it may allow you the opportunity to try out different rates before settling on the final decision and paying for them – but worst case scenario is that they will be able to guide you to the best spring rate just based on the sag numbers (if your sag is out you may know which way to go – harder or softer – but not know by how much). I also believe that there is a need to change the valving to suit your springs.
The short of it all is that you are half way there just by being on this page. If you are considering changing your springs it means you are prepared to spend money on the most important part of your ride. I had spent a heck of a lot of money on my bikes suspension before I replaced any damaged plastics or stickers.
I think there are a few key things that should be guiding your choice of spring. The first is obviously your sag (you can even do it for the front but a lot less accurately – rider sag should be about 33% of the total travel – but better to just see if you are using all of your available travel (without bottoming out where you shouldn’t) this can be done by putting a zip tie around your fork stanchion and seeing where it is sitting at the end of a ride)
The second thing is to work with a tuner – you can go with non-standard setup like soft valving and hard springs for example. If you are buying your springs from the tuner it may allow you the opportunity to try out different rates before settling on the final decision and paying for them – but worst case scenario is that they will be able to guide you to the best spring rate just based on the sag numbers (if your sag is out you may know which way to go – harder or softer – but not know by how much). I also believe that there is a need to change the valving to suit your springs.
The short of it all is that you are half way there just by being on this page. If you are considering changing your springs it means you are prepared to spend money on the most important part of your ride. I had spent a heck of a lot of money on my bikes suspension before I replaced any damaged plastics or stickers.
