what forks on 2008 ec250 europe
- Thread starter nelly001
- Start date
noobi
New member
Probably Marzocchi 45mm open chamber forks. Measure the stanchion tube to be sure. What do you need to know?
2008 forks
i measured the stansions black anodised and they were 48mm.it has a tiny air bleed screw in the fork top.i need to know what air gap and oil to use on rebuild.the fork legs are plain black no markings at all.i also have a problem with the rebound on the 1 fork when the screw is wound right out it carrys on turning not stopping as the other 1 does.
i measured the stansions black anodised and they were 48mm.it has a tiny air bleed screw in the fork top.i need to know what air gap and oil to use on rebuild.the fork legs are plain black no markings at all.i also have a problem with the rebound on the 1 fork when the screw is wound right out it carrys on turning not stopping as the other 1 does.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Sounds like Sachs 48mm OC.
The bleed hole is some small allen head (like super small - 3mm maybe). From all I read I think the air gap is around 120-135mm fork compressed, spring out. I run mine at the full 135mm on a 2010 EC300 R. I'm pretty sure every year GG has used Sachs they've had different valving. Trying to source parts for these forks is more than a headache.
I think they came with 2 sets of fork caps too! One wiith adjustable preload and one without.
PS The Sachs have a strange rebound screw that can be competely removed from the cap. Don't strip the threads on it when re-asembling, and don't ask why I know not to.
PPS. The parts from when I damaged mine months ago are only just shipping now.
The bleed hole is some small allen head (like super small - 3mm maybe). From all I read I think the air gap is around 120-135mm fork compressed, spring out. I run mine at the full 135mm on a 2010 EC300 R. I'm pretty sure every year GG has used Sachs they've had different valving. Trying to source parts for these forks is more than a headache.
I think they came with 2 sets of fork caps too! One wiith adjustable preload and one without.
PS The Sachs have a strange rebound screw that can be competely removed from the cap. Don't strip the threads on it when re-asembling, and don't ask why I know not to.
PPS. The parts from when I damaged mine months ago are only just shipping now.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Sounds like you must have the ones with the preload adjustment. My caps were very simple. Cap, bleeder hole, and the brass screw (which had an o ring on it). The rebound screw threads into the damper rod and I misaligned putting the cap on and cross threaded it.. oopps.
Hope you don't have the same problem. Compression clickers are at the base of the forks and require a quite large flat blade screw driver to make adjustments.
Hope you don't have the same problem. Compression clickers are at the base of the forks and require a quite large flat blade screw driver to make adjustments.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
When you wind the rebound screw in does it click and go in easily and eventually bottom out? Or is it just spinning on the spot. Once the cap is removed you should be able to push the reboudna djuster out completely, feed the thread back into the damper rod until it bottoms and then install the cap.
forks
ok i have cleaned and reassembled filled with 5 weight 125 airgap and they feel pretty plush.the fork took a bit of fiddling to get the same amount of clicks both sides 18 or 19 i think.the fork caps were the standard rebound only ones with the compression on the bottom of fork.i will be drilling and tapping the fork cap to take some speed bleeders to get rid of the stupid little screw.another thing i will have to look into is moving the handlebars forward so i can adjust rebound without removing the bars.now all i have to do is ride the bike and adjust comp and rebound on forks and the ohlins rear shock i fitted from a 450 vor a friend has broken for parts.
ok i have cleaned and reassembled filled with 5 weight 125 airgap and they feel pretty plush.the fork took a bit of fiddling to get the same amount of clicks both sides 18 or 19 i think.the fork caps were the standard rebound only ones with the compression on the bottom of fork.i will be drilling and tapping the fork cap to take some speed bleeders to get rid of the stupid little screw.another thing i will have to look into is moving the handlebars forward so i can adjust rebound without removing the bars.now all i have to do is ride the bike and adjust comp and rebound on forks and the ohlins rear shock i fitted from a 450 vor a friend has broken for parts.
bchatt
Bronze Level Site Supporter
I ground some flats onto an old 4mm allen key, cut down so that it will fit under the bars. I carry that in a plastic tube taped to the clutch line, so I can stop and make adjustments out on the track.
Simmo737
Gold Level Site Supporter
If you are willing/ able to crack open the cartridge to access the rebound piston, or are super comptetent and are confident to access the rebound piston through the base valve opening in the cartridge... Any problems you have with deflection and mid stroke spike will go away by fiddling with the mid valve stack. The shims are 7mm id, which is hard to source. Twowheels on this site has an easy and cheap fix that he can mail you if you can install it.
