mp5
New member
Well, after countless hours on this forum researching, reading, watching the vids and chatting with members, i have decide to share with the the collective here on this great site.
I own a 2012 300 ec, and have had a few little issues that I have sorted out. The latest one however, has me stumped. I seem to have lost some top end power. My bike has only 40 or so hrs on it, and after MANY jetting changes, new rings, packing and carb/airbox testing, I decided to check the pv/govenor assembly for any ansers. This ite has been great for this topic btw, and all of the vids that folks have taken the time to post has been a super help.
My bike has always hit very hard in the bottom and mid range...no problems there. And since that is the type of riding I enjoy most, it's been very fun. But I started to notice that my bike wasn't "opening up" like it should when hard on the gas, and on the pipe. So I had a few buddies try it out, thinking that maybe I was just getting "used to" my bike's power. But they said the same....that it seemed like it was only reaching about 80% of its top end.
So I opened up the primary and noticed a few things.
1. My govenor had no shims. Well, I guess this would explain my massive bottom end hit
2. The govenor assembly seems to "bind" a little bit when I press down on it manually. It seems to travel smoothly for about 1/2 of it's travel, causing the bell crank, actuator arm and actuator plate to effectively move smoothly too. But then at the 2nd 1/2 of it travel (while pushing down on it), it slightly "sticks" or binds and that effectievly binds the actuator plate to stop at what seems to be only about 80% of its travel towards the full open position at the stopper bolt in the RHS pv housing. Then, with a slightly stronger push down on the govenor, it travels to its bottom, and the actuator follows suit to it's stopper.
I checked, re-checked three checked all the linkage assembly for binding or any bolts that may be too tight, or anything else in that system that might cause the powervalve to not opn fully. I'm stumped...
When I detach the actuator arm from the plate, the plate moves 100% freely with no binding or snags around its axis. When the arms is attached and I have the pipe back on I can blip the throttle while the bike idles and the plate moves freely from the fully closed position to the fully open position with no problems, (actually, it moves VERY FAST). I have adjusted the freeplay out of the arm and actuator plate (as per GMP), so that the plate has slight preload on the stopped bolt, so all seems to be good there.
I have taken the govenor off several times and checked it over on the bench. I have reinstalled it using no shims, aswell as one shim (1.3mm), with no difference in the binding/sticky feel of the govenor (when I manually push down on it). The ball bearing are all in place and seem to be doing their job.
The only thing I have yet to try, is take out the actual powervalve assembly itself, and see if there's a problem with it. But because the actuator plate was moving freely on its own (in its own travel), i just assumed the pv mechanism was fine. And since I've never taken the pv out, even when I did the rings, (and I'm assuming the previous owner hadn't taken them out either), I would think that the pv has never needed to be set, or looked at at this point in it's early life.
So....after countless hours of seaching and wrenching, I am looking for some suggestions.
My bike has stock gearing 13/48
My jetting is
38 pilot
jd red clip #2
175 pilot
7 slide cut out on a 38 mm asII
sea level at 20-30 celcius
I have tried every Suzuki and Yammie needle, aswell as stock and a CCK). I might be alittle rich still on the main for this time of year
My plug is a nice golden tan.
Pipe and packing are good.
Carb and air filter are clean all the time. No toil oil on filter.
Float level is good
No debris in vacuum lines off carb(that I can see anyway)
The max top end my bike will presently do under these conditions is around 70 mph (120 kph)....I should think it is good for at least 90 (144 kph)....shouldn't it? Not that I care about top end speed. The bike just acts like it starving for more air.
My buddies new stock '13 Beta 300 RR walks away from mine when on the pipe in mid range, and top end as does another buddies "13 yz 250. I'm thinking this shouldn't happen
Sorry for, yet another, pv quandry, but like I said, i just couldn't find the answers........yet
Thanks for any advise...
MP5
I own a 2012 300 ec, and have had a few little issues that I have sorted out. The latest one however, has me stumped. I seem to have lost some top end power. My bike has only 40 or so hrs on it, and after MANY jetting changes, new rings, packing and carb/airbox testing, I decided to check the pv/govenor assembly for any ansers. This ite has been great for this topic btw, and all of the vids that folks have taken the time to post has been a super help.
My bike has always hit very hard in the bottom and mid range...no problems there. And since that is the type of riding I enjoy most, it's been very fun. But I started to notice that my bike wasn't "opening up" like it should when hard on the gas, and on the pipe. So I had a few buddies try it out, thinking that maybe I was just getting "used to" my bike's power. But they said the same....that it seemed like it was only reaching about 80% of its top end.
So I opened up the primary and noticed a few things.
1. My govenor had no shims. Well, I guess this would explain my massive bottom end hit
2. The govenor assembly seems to "bind" a little bit when I press down on it manually. It seems to travel smoothly for about 1/2 of it's travel, causing the bell crank, actuator arm and actuator plate to effectively move smoothly too. But then at the 2nd 1/2 of it travel (while pushing down on it), it slightly "sticks" or binds and that effectievly binds the actuator plate to stop at what seems to be only about 80% of its travel towards the full open position at the stopper bolt in the RHS pv housing. Then, with a slightly stronger push down on the govenor, it travels to its bottom, and the actuator follows suit to it's stopper.
I checked, re-checked three checked all the linkage assembly for binding or any bolts that may be too tight, or anything else in that system that might cause the powervalve to not opn fully. I'm stumped...
When I detach the actuator arm from the plate, the plate moves 100% freely with no binding or snags around its axis. When the arms is attached and I have the pipe back on I can blip the throttle while the bike idles and the plate moves freely from the fully closed position to the fully open position with no problems, (actually, it moves VERY FAST). I have adjusted the freeplay out of the arm and actuator plate (as per GMP), so that the plate has slight preload on the stopped bolt, so all seems to be good there.
I have taken the govenor off several times and checked it over on the bench. I have reinstalled it using no shims, aswell as one shim (1.3mm), with no difference in the binding/sticky feel of the govenor (when I manually push down on it). The ball bearing are all in place and seem to be doing their job.
The only thing I have yet to try, is take out the actual powervalve assembly itself, and see if there's a problem with it. But because the actuator plate was moving freely on its own (in its own travel), i just assumed the pv mechanism was fine. And since I've never taken the pv out, even when I did the rings, (and I'm assuming the previous owner hadn't taken them out either), I would think that the pv has never needed to be set, or looked at at this point in it's early life.
So....after countless hours of seaching and wrenching, I am looking for some suggestions.
My bike has stock gearing 13/48
My jetting is
38 pilot
jd red clip #2
175 pilot
7 slide cut out on a 38 mm asII
sea level at 20-30 celcius
I have tried every Suzuki and Yammie needle, aswell as stock and a CCK). I might be alittle rich still on the main for this time of year
My plug is a nice golden tan.
Pipe and packing are good.
Carb and air filter are clean all the time. No toil oil on filter.
Float level is good
No debris in vacuum lines off carb(that I can see anyway)
The max top end my bike will presently do under these conditions is around 70 mph (120 kph)....I should think it is good for at least 90 (144 kph)....shouldn't it? Not that I care about top end speed. The bike just acts like it starving for more air.
My buddies new stock '13 Beta 300 RR walks away from mine when on the pipe in mid range, and top end as does another buddies "13 yz 250. I'm thinking this shouldn't happen
Sorry for, yet another, pv quandry, but like I said, i just couldn't find the answers........yet
Thanks for any advise...MP5
