I've heard some of the late model 05' EC300's come with a dual mapped CDI but no toggle switch. How can I tell which one I have. My CDI is located under the seat up under the gas tank where it meets the seat and air box. Not sure if this is the same location for all models? thx/Mike
05' Ec300 Cdi
- Thread starter gasIdaho
- Start date
Cdi
I have the 05 MC250 . I heard they ran out of the standard dual map Kokusan CDI late 05 and stuck something else in there. My CDI is under the tank and the dual map is mounted to the fender. I don't know about other bikes.
I don't know what I have, but I don't think my bike delivers power anything like an MX bike, more like a trials bike
I have the 05 MC250 . I heard they ran out of the standard dual map Kokusan CDI late 05 and stuck something else in there. My CDI is under the tank and the dual map is mounted to the fender. I don't know about other bikes.
I don't know what I have, but I don't think my bike delivers power anything like an MX bike, more like a trials bike
DAGWOOD1971
New member
hi m8,cdi unit should be under your seat.
flick the cdi unit out of the rubber strap and underneath you should,hopefully,find 2 wires,one orange and one black.
these will be joined or separated.
if you have these,all you need is the handlebar toggle switch and,hey presto,dual ignition mapping.
flick the cdi unit out of the rubber strap and underneath you should,hopefully,find 2 wires,one orange and one black.
these will be joined or separated.
if you have these,all you need is the handlebar toggle switch and,hey presto,dual ignition mapping.
Bandit9
Platinum Level Site Supporter
I spent the evening loading up the truck and the camper. Decided to leave earlier and work on the bike tomorrow afternoon after I get set up. In other words, when there will be no phone or wife or kid distracting me.
I am really hoping the jetting is whack. That way it will be easy and give me hope.
I should be able to report on the spacer removal and to what I have in it as far as jets and needles on Sunday. My buddy is bringing a bunch of jets and needles for us to play with on Saturday. I do know that the needle is not the LTR needle. So that gives me hope right there. I will be ordering an LTR kit tomorrow on my way North to the woods...
I am really hoping the jetting is whack. That way it will be easy and give me hope.
I should be able to report on the spacer removal and to what I have in it as far as jets and needles on Sunday. My buddy is bringing a bunch of jets and needles for us to play with on Saturday. I do know that the needle is not the LTR needle. So that gives me hope right there. I will be ordering an LTR kit tomorrow on my way North to the woods...
GMP
Active member
You should see significant improvements. No need for a reed spacer on a 250, they dropped that on the '07s. The '07 motor is close to the '06 and my bike just plain rips, no complaints! Check the condition of the reeds while your in there, VForce reed petals are good for a season, not a lot more.
Let me know how you make out, if your still not satisfied there are other things to do.
Let me know how you make out, if your still not satisfied there are other things to do.
Boomhauer
New member
I had a good conversation today with a dealer and they said not to run the CDI switch in the sunny mode unless you find yourself using the clutch quite a bit. And for sure don't have it in the "Sunny" mode if you are in deep sand as you are already "Racing" the engine really hard.
When you flip the switch from one setting to the next there is a difference of about 10 degrees in the timing. So that being said, running the switch in the "Sunny" mode will lean the motor a bit and if you run your bike like this there could be slight damage.
When you flip the switch from one setting to the next there is a difference of about 10 degrees in the timing. So that being said, running the switch in the "Sunny" mode will lean the motor a bit and if you run your bike like this there could be slight damage.
GMP
Active member
Are you sure? Ten degrees seems rather extreme! 
Thats like rotating the stator plate approx 10mm clockwise, if the slots would allow it. Of course that would be a static timing advance but you get the idea. I would have thought maybe 1 - 2 degrees at certain RPM by the way it feels. On the 250 it really doesn't feel like a big difference, noticable but not that significant. I think that sloppy jetting could eaisly mask any difference you may feel from the CDI on the 250. 300 may be another story.
Thats like rotating the stator plate approx 10mm clockwise, if the slots would allow it. Of course that would be a static timing advance but you get the idea. I would have thought maybe 1 - 2 degrees at certain RPM by the way it feels. On the 250 it really doesn't feel like a big difference, noticable but not that significant. I think that sloppy jetting could eaisly mask any difference you may feel from the CDI on the 250. 300 may be another story.
Boomhauer
New member
Maybe it was 8 degrees Glenn.
I know it was up there though. Or maybe I confused it with something else.
It was a very informative conversation. Shoot I thought just go out there and run it in the "Sunny" mode. I won't now, unless I find my self clutching the bike all the time.
I know it was up there though. Or maybe I confused it with something else.It was a very informative conversation. Shoot I thought just go out there and run it in the "Sunny" mode. I won't now, unless I find my self clutching the bike all the time.
Bandit9
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Well, she woke up big time! I removed the spacer, then scoped out what he had in there. To my surprise, it had a 148 main jet with a 40 pilot, and a CG K needle with the clip on the leanest (bottom) notch. No flippin' wonder it didn't have any ass off the bottom. But it did bring a smile to my face.
That meant there was a ton of power in there waiting to get out and it was easy and cheap to bring out.
So a buddy of mine brought me a LTR 1? needle a 175 and 180 main and a 45 pilot out to the camper on Friday night. On Saturday morning the 175 MJ went in, LTR 1? in the 3rd clip, and the 45 PJ. Niiiiice improvement. Had much more bottom end, well hell everywhere. Today I put the 180 in, and dropped the needle down one notch in the 2nd position. Even better, especially in 3rd gear. I think I ended up somewhere around 2.5 turns out on the air screw. Before I used to have to clutch 2-4 times coming out of a corner to get it to get up and go, now it is maybe once, and that is it. Lost of pop at the twist of the throttle. Very nice. However, I think the 180 is bit on the rich side, lots of spooge, so I am going to get a 178 and see what happens with a few clip changes on the needle. Should have it dialed by the end of next weekend.
Thanks Glenn for your assistance. These 250's are pretty strong. Now I have to go back and adjust my suspension. It handles differently now with the additional boost.
Also I can't wait to let the guy I bought it from ride it next weekend. He is going to die. He messed with his jetting on just about everyride. I am talking needle changes, slide changes, pilots, mains, you name it. He never could get it to run like he wanted. So I am interested in seeing his face after he rides it.
That meant there was a ton of power in there waiting to get out and it was easy and cheap to bring out.So a buddy of mine brought me a LTR 1? needle a 175 and 180 main and a 45 pilot out to the camper on Friday night. On Saturday morning the 175 MJ went in, LTR 1? in the 3rd clip, and the 45 PJ. Niiiiice improvement. Had much more bottom end, well hell everywhere. Today I put the 180 in, and dropped the needle down one notch in the 2nd position. Even better, especially in 3rd gear. I think I ended up somewhere around 2.5 turns out on the air screw. Before I used to have to clutch 2-4 times coming out of a corner to get it to get up and go, now it is maybe once, and that is it. Lost of pop at the twist of the throttle. Very nice. However, I think the 180 is bit on the rich side, lots of spooge, so I am going to get a 178 and see what happens with a few clip changes on the needle. Should have it dialed by the end of next weekend.
Thanks Glenn for your assistance. These 250's are pretty strong. Now I have to go back and adjust my suspension. It handles differently now with the additional boost.
Also I can't wait to let the guy I bought it from ride it next weekend. He is going to die. He messed with his jetting on just about everyride. I am talking needle changes, slide changes, pilots, mains, you name it. He never could get it to run like he wanted. So I am interested in seeing his face after he rides it.
GMP
Active member
A 148 main with a C series taper needle in a 250???
Your lucky it didn't seize!
Don't jet by spooge, jet by feel. Spooge will appear very differently in SA vs. straight silencers, and varies greatly with oil brand. These bikes seem to make the best torque with what appears to be slightly rich jetting. 178 -180 with the LTR -01 is where they usually end up.
Your lucky it didn't seize!
Don't jet by spooge, jet by feel. Spooge will appear very differently in SA vs. straight silencers, and varies greatly with oil brand. These bikes seem to make the best torque with what appears to be slightly rich jetting. 178 -180 with the LTR -01 is where they usually end up.
Boomhauer
New member
I would like to go on the record and appologize to anybody that read my 1st post about the 8 degrees. I did confuse it with something else.
The diference of the 2 modes is about 3 degrees. The main thing is that you have to adjust your jetting for one or the other to keep from running to lean or rich. I will adjust mine for the "Rain" mode and just use the "Sunny" setting if needed.
Thank you and have a nice day!
The diference of the 2 modes is about 3 degrees. The main thing is that you have to adjust your jetting for one or the other to keep from running to lean or rich. I will adjust mine for the "Rain" mode and just use the "Sunny" setting if needed.
Thank you and have a nice day!
GMP
Active member
Mine seems jetted about perfect in both modes. Really not a big difference, in most cases I have to try and feel the difference. Biggest difference is in the sand, where the bike comes on the pipe a little quicker in the Sunny mode. I switched back and forth quite a bit when it went from open to tight trail, but had to look at the switch to be sure what mode I was in. Plug looks textbook perfect, I aint messin with it. Like I said I think this is more of a tool to manage a 300.
The 3 degree advance is most likely not static, but a difference at one or more points in the map (timing vs. RPM). Judging by how high the bike revs and still makes power in Sunny mode I would say that it is not applicable to the high RPM range, as more advance usually kills this. Midrange most likely.
The 3 degree advance is most likely not static, but a difference at one or more points in the map (timing vs. RPM). Judging by how high the bike revs and still makes power in Sunny mode I would say that it is not applicable to the high RPM range, as more advance usually kills this. Midrange most likely.
