2000 EC300 clutch basket

B

bonkeye

New member
anyone have a picture of the back of the clutch bascket also do they has cush drive on the back? ~

my bike had had a ratting sound for a while but goes when rev'd out of gear when in gear it pull's fine with no loss of power, only thing wrong is when the engine is at really low revs (any gear) there is a loud knocking noise till the revs build up then it goes away.... now latley the rattle on idle has become a deep knocking noice but the symtoms are the same, ive had the clutch out no signs of wear or even wear on the bascket fingers, been told by a few people they think the bike has cush drive on the back of the bascket (was told after i pulled out the clutch) but i didnt notice anything amiss when i had it out, any help on this would be great, dont really want to take it to a workshop as money is really tight at the mo so any repairs need to be done by me


Thanks
Mark
 
Hey mark my 2000 250 does the same I was told that it is just the fingers on the clutch basket rattling/vibrating.. Does the noise disappear when the clutch is pulled if so I was told its nothing to worry about
 
Rabbitist said:
Hey mark my 2000 250 does the same I was told that it is just the fingers on the clutch basket rattling/vibrating.. Does the noise disappear when the clutch is pulled if so I was told its nothing to worry about
Click to expand...

no the noise stays even if the clutch is in/out, this is louder than clutch finger rattling
 
took it apart again today to try & find whats wrong with it, ive fond a few things im not sure about..... but the power valve is not stuck & is oporating correctly

power valve thing (not sure whats its called

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hV8DH12jH24&list=UUvudl6wAtI64HimOF2Prqkg&index=3&feature=plcp

clutch basket seems to have vety slight compared to the gear on the back, rivits are all still inplace, when its off you can feel it move also

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-AcOXvf_PQ&list=UUvudl6wAtI64HimOF2Prqkg&index=2&feature=plcp

crank end float..... there is only side to side play no up or down movment... i had my fingers in the exhaust port to hold the piston & rocked the crank & felt no up or do paly on that either, but guessing im going to have to remove the cylinder to get a more accurate on it....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aw97c11_tFk&list=UUvudl6wAtI64HimOF2Prqkg&index=1&feature=plcp
 
that's probably too much play in the clutch cush drives.

the pv governor play is probably not your noise. the other end rides in a bearing too... i'd replace both bearings


the end float is significant enough that i'd get in there and take a look/replace crank bearings......


it is a 2000, if it's not been apart before, it may be time for the bottom end to be redone..


the knocking noise/vibration could also be motor mounts not tight....
 
before i took the bike apart i checked a few things ove & i got one thing wrong the noise does stop when i pull the clutch in

yes its a 2000 300ec...... im sure the bottom end has been apart in the past but not sure whats been changed but i did take out the spark plug & spun the crank & bearings seems really smooth its just that side play i wasnt sure on, from what ive red about the cush drives that they can go from agresive clutch use & im forever flicking the clutch on hill climbs etc, just a habit i need to get out of but had to do it all the time on my CR250

all the mounts are tight, first thing i checked.
 
The dampers on that basket are shot for sure. With good ones in there would be no deflection at all. Could be a bitch to get them out and reuse the basket as the rivets that hold it together need to be drilled out.
 
PEB said:
The dampers on that basket are shot for sure. With good ones in there would be no deflection at all. Could be a bitch to get them out and reuse the basket as the rivets that hold it together need to be drilled out.
Click to expand...

i'll sort somthing to drill the rivits out, how much roughly are the cush drives to buy?
 
cushions

The dampers or cushions are $5 each plus shipping.
I got mine from Halls $46 with shipping, same price at Gofasters.

I have a set for sale if anyone is interested, unused!
 
had a closer look at the bascket & rivits & they seem to be slightly loose they dont flop about or anything just able to spin them so rather than drilling them out isit just the case of hitting the rivits too tighten them up? just wondering if the loose rivits are allowing the basket to move slightly rather than the rubbers going as its not moving all that much
 
your both right, a little money now fixing them could save me a load of money later if one breaks while on the bike & destroy the engine

ive started to drill out the rivits which im having loads of fun due to them spinning soon as i touch them with a drill bit but i'll get them out soon enough
 
took the basket apart & rubbers all intact but they do have a fine lip on them, only on the one edge can feel it if i run my finger across it also tapped the hole with a 5mm tap so i'll pick up some button heads later today.

ive got some blue thread lock here will that be ok or should i go out the stronger red thread lock?
 
blue would work, you just don't want them vibrating out. make sure you clean the tapped holes out, any tapping fluid residue will cancel out the thread lock...

you gotta use button head sockets - anything with a bigger head and there won't be clearance.. if you can't find 14mm length -it's an oddball size - just use 16mm and grind the 2mm off. (or maybe 16mm is not too long - but i think it is) - a word of warning - button head sockets can be a bitch to remove once there is loctite on them....
 
ok thanks i got the botton head's not sure of the size i told the person what i needed & he got them right away & is close enough, ive heard about tapping fluid canceling out thread lock so i slowly tapped them out dry so wont have any issue's with that canceling out
 
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