2001 Ec300 Does It Have A Top End? New To Gas Gas

[MXR]

I'm so glad I found this site. I just purchased a lightly used 2001 Gas Gas EC300. It has great compression, unbelievable bottom end and midrange. However, when it hits the topend portion of the powerband it hits a wall. It just doesn't pull, it only revs. I've had Japanese 250T's with low to mid power, but they still had a topend pull. All the reviews I've read talk about it's linear power. I agree with that, until I think about the top end. Is there anything that this could be, Powervalve or something??? Is this normal going from a Japanese 2T to a Gas Gas. By the way, these bikes are incredible for technical and trail riding.
I appreciate any input you can give me. I've got no one else to ask.

 

[iancp5]

What pipe are the you running? The Gnarly signs off early but provides lots of bottom. Other than that, jetting as usual can have a big effect as can tired reeds. Might be worth checking base gaskets - often people go thin for bottom end. It's a fairly well balanced engine and if there's no faults should provide plenty of top but you can apply a whole load of tweaks to adjust the power characteristics - pipe, reeds, jetting, base gaskets, flywheel, timing, PV cover, end can etc. Naturally check for faults first. I'm not the best person to advise on this though as I don't need top end for my riding.

 

[jeffd]

I think Ian hit the nail squarely on the head - I had an '01 and the gnarly pipe on the bike focuses power low to mid. Find a doma or a messico pipe - newer pipes don't fit (but you might be able to "make it fit"...) I forget which years will fit your bike.

Also remove the PV cover and check to make sure it's not full of goo. Clean the power valve assembly and make sure it's operating properly. Matt R. did a great update to a PV disassembly instruction that can be found in the technical section of the website here.

jeff

 

[widebear]

The lack of rev on the 300 is just; the nature of the beast; there is nothing that you can do to make any tangable differances to make it behave like a 250, changing pipes will make a subtle but not dramatic change. Gear it for your terrain and ride it like an open bike , which it what it is.

 

[Eric K]

My '06 EC300 pulls strong to 9700 RPM with the stock GG pipe. That is excellent for a 300 in my book. The engine provides very linear power over a very broad range.

My '01 XC300 with a Doma pipe runs like my ’06 EC300 with the stock GG pipe – linear power with great top end power. My ’01 XC300 with a FMF Gnarly would not rev nearly as high or produce as much top end power.

For comparison, I ran the FMF and Doma pipes on the same hill with my ’01 XC300. The Gnarly pipe would pull the hill in 3rd gear with moderately high RPM while the Doma pipe would pull the hill screaming in 4th gear. That is a pretty substantial power difference to me. Both runs were in dry conditions with a trials tire so there was little wheelspin. With the Doma I didn’t notice any loss of low end power compared to the FMF, it was just more controllable.

 

[MXR]

Thanks Ian, Jeff, Widebear, and Erik.

I've got a stock Gas Gas pipe. It does have a 1/2 inch deep ding in it, I don't know how much that will effect the power. From all of your posts, I'm thinking it probably is the powervalve and jetting. From what Eric was saying, I should be getting a more linear progression of power through the top end, instead of it just signing off after the midrange. If you guys think the ding in the pipe is a big deal, and my jetting isn't the LTR set up, I might just get that Power package that has the Doma pipe etc. How much difference does that Power Valve Cover from LTR & their jetting kit make? Also, will aftermarket reeds make a big difference? If so, what brand is best?

 

[Bearman]

The ding in the pipe definitely won't be helping. It is fix-able though

The LTR powervalve cover only helps the bottom (i think)

 

[iancp5]

Thanks Ian, Jeff, Widebear, and Erik.

I've got a stock Gas Gas pipe. It does have a 1/2 inch deep ding in it, I don't know how much that will effect the power. From all of your posts, I'm thinking it probably is the powervalve and jetting. From what Eric was saying, I should be getting a more linear progression of power through the top end, instead of it just signing off after the midrange. If you guys think the ding in the pipe is a big deal, and my jetting isn't the LTR set up, I might just get that Power package that has the Doma pipe etc. How much difference does that Power Valve Cover from LTR & their jetting kit make? Also, will aftermarket reeds make a big difference? If so, what brand is best?

If it's a big ding 1/2" deep then it will be having some effect on power delivery, exactly what would be hard to tell. Considering how similar pipes with differents characteristic look it's got to be having an effect. I don't think the PV cover makes any difference to top end and indeed not very noticeable at any range on the 300. I tried it and removed it. Bike felt smoother without. EC200 owners have a very different take on them and find them a big improvement. For jetting, I found Pobit's suggestion for smooth delivery the best I've ever tried. He also posted suggestions for top end orientated jetting.

 

[Loosenut]

Another factor is the compression your engine builds. I lost top-end with the higher compression with the RB Designs head work. Well, maybe I didn't really lose it, as the low-end and midrange are much more meaty than in stock EC form. With the stock head and FMF pipe my '05 reved out very well. Much better than my 2000 EC/XC300, but lacked the low-end of the older bike.

 

[widebear]

I find the most effective way to ride the 300 is, jet it perfectly and keep upshiften that succa so your allways in the meat of the powerband. For tight technical trails its the e ticket

 

[Eric K]

Thanks Ian, Jeff, Widebear, and Erik.

I've got a stock Gas Gas pipe. It does have a 1/2 inch deep ding in it, I don't know how much that will effect the power. From all of your posts, I'm thinking it probably is the powervalve and jetting. From what Eric was saying, I should be getting a more linear progression of power through the top end, instead of it just signing off after the midrange. If you guys think the ding in the pipe is a big deal, and my jetting isn't the LTR set up, I might just get that Power package that has the Doma pipe etc. How much difference does that Power Valve Cover from LTR & their jetting kit make? Also, will aftermarket reeds make a big difference? If so, what brand is best?

Where is the ding? If it is in the header pipe, then you might notice a difference. If it is in the cone sections of the pipe, then you would not really be able to tell a difference.

The Doma pipe is nearly identical to the stock GG pipe.

The LTR power valve cover helps low end to a moderate extent. No effect once the power valve is open.

Before you start spending big dollars get your jetting set up correctly. For starters read what others have run for jetting in the jetting section. Try some of the common settings and see if they work for you. LTR jetting works well for many people.

 

[socalscott]

Prolly reeds. You getting a ratty sound instead of on-the-pipe hp?
There's only brrr-rat, instead of braaaaa?

My bros. 04 EC has the same lack of upper mid to top hp. He's running
a Doma, LTR jetting and PV cover. PV's are working.
Gonna slap some new reeds in this afternoon. He also machined the head
down aboot .015" to correct previous uneven hack job! Squish gap should
end up over .060".

 

[socalscott]

Badda-bing...reeds, reeds, reeds. They were wasted. Check them
immediately.

Shockingly, the RAD Valve bodies reed contact surface was extremely
pited, it required a rough file, fine file and finaly a lapping stone!

Now she pulls and pulls up top after installing some Boyesen ProLites and
a squish gap of .053". Compression is still a low 130lbs.! but bro. already
planed for a piston anywho.

It's my ride for Saturday, so I'll treat it to high dez goat trails and hill climbs.
I'm gonna be sore, as I'm used to KTM 200 power.