2002 Gas Gas EC300 Jetting Issues

Vergey

New member
I am looking for a little advice oh wise Gas Gas forum members. I have been lurking on the forum for quite a period of time and trying to piece together information to fix the long list of issues with my EC300.

So a little background, bought the EC a little over a year ago, decided I fancied my first 2-stroke enduro bike. Rode a friends and fell in love with the GG, so got my own. Unfortunately for me the previous owner of my bike did not seem to have had the enthusiasm that I have for the bike. On my first proper ride the bike went pop- cracked block caused it to spew out all its water and melt the block the piston- you name it, it was buggered.

So I have thrown a hell of a load of money at it fixing that- renewed every bearing, crank, piston, new barrel, new head, basically everything new except the actual gears. At a cost of nearly ?2000- I figured it would be worth it because I would essentially have a zero hour bike, all be it with knackered body panels. (At least that way I feel less bad when I clip trees.)

Anyway I have then spent the last 9 months chasing issues around the bike, including the jetting- to start with it was ok- not great but rideable. Plug chop suggested it was a little on the rich side. But I figured that it probably wasnt a true reflection of the jetting as the exhaust was looking seriously tired, and I was getting a lot of exhaust leaking through the PV breathers. This situation just got worse as time went on, with the bike getting to a point where it wouldn't rev out and was slow as all hell.

So I purchased a DEP silencer, and replaced all the PV bearings- silencer looks fantastic and sounds fantastic. (The front pipe is the standard GG stainless item- nearly new so didn't replace). The only issue I have now is that the bike it running on the lean side- plug chop shows no colour on the centre electrode insulation- with the ground electrode looking slightly on the white side

So I dropped the needle clip one down, back to the centre of the needle (N1ec), which merely made the bottom end run badly. It now really stutters at low throttle, particularly pulling away, but as it revs out it clears up and takes off, it really revs out, but it what I would describe as slightly zingy. Pulled the plug, still white with no real change in appearance

I will also add that the bike has very low hours approx 40, and before doing this jetting work I have inspected the entire engine, the compression is good, the air filter was brand new, reeds look as new (again only 40 hours).

So oh wise ones, please help- what do I need to change to get the bike back to a ridable state, where I don't need to worry about it going bang again- I cant afford to fully rebuild her twice in two years.


Summary:
2002 Gas Gas EC300
Boyesen Carbon Reeds
DEP silencer
Standard GG stainless front pipe
35 pilot
178 main
N7 slide
N1ec needle
BR8eg plug

I hope this is enough info (sorry if it is a little too much of a life story but every little helps). All suggestions and help will be greatly appreciated
 
Hi, I am in UK too, best settings for my bike were as follows
38 pilot
175 main
NEDW centre clip
A/S 1.5 turns out

Bike ran strong right through range with smooth transfer onto pipe
Hope this helps its gotta be worth a try
 
I am looking for a little advice oh wise Gas Gas forum members. I have been lurking on the forum for quite a period of time and trying to piece together information to fix the long list of issues with my EC300.

So a little background, bought the EC a little over a year ago, decided I fancied my first 2-stroke enduro bike. Rode a friends and fell in love with the GG, so got my own. Unfortunately for me the previous owner of my bike did not seem to have had the enthusiasm that I have for the bike. On my first proper ride the bike went pop- cracked block caused it to spew out all its water and melt the block the piston- you name it, it was buggered.

So I have thrown a hell of a load of money at it fixing that- renewed every bearing, crank, piston, new barrel, new head, basically everything new except the actual gears. At a cost of nearly ?2000- I figured it would be worth it because I would essentially have a zero hour bike, all be it with knackered body panels. (At least that way I feel less bad when I clip trees.)

Anyway I have then spent the last 9 months chasing issues around the bike, including the jetting- to start with it was ok- not great but rideable. Plug chop suggested it was a little on the rich side. But I figured that it probably wasnt a true reflection of the jetting as the exhaust was looking seriously tired, and I was getting a lot of exhaust leaking through the PV breathers. This situation just got worse as time went on, with the bike getting to a point where it wouldn't rev out and was slow as all hell.

So I purchased a DEP silencer, and replaced all the PV bearings- silencer looks fantastic and sounds fantastic. (The front pipe is the standard GG stainless item- nearly new so didn't replace). The only issue I have now is that the bike it running on the lean side- plug chop shows no colour on the centre electrode insulation- with the ground electrode looking slightly on the white side

So I dropped the needle clip one down, back to the centre of the needle (N1ec), which merely made the bottom end run badly. It now really stutters at low throttle, particularly pulling away, but as it revs out it clears up and takes off, it really revs out, but it what I would describe as slightly zingy. Pulled the plug, still white with no real change in appearance

I will also add that the bike has very low hours approx 40, and before doing this jetting work I have inspected the entire engine, the compression is good, the air filter was brand new, reeds look as new (again only 40 hours).

So oh wise ones, please help- what do I need to change to get the bike back to a ridable state, where I don't need to worry about it going bang again- I cant afford to fully rebuild her twice in two years.


Summary:
2002 Gas Gas EC300
Boyesen Carbon Reeds
DEP silencer
Standard GG stainless front pipe
35 pilot
178 main
N7 slide
N1ec needle
BR8eg plug

I hope this is enough info (sorry if it is a little too much of a life story but every little helps). All suggestions and help will be greatly appreciated

hi mate welcome,im from herts to lol (potters bar)

ive been having trouble to ive changed my needle just lately

slide 6
178 main
38 pilot
N3EG clip pos3

had a bad burble at low to mid and this needle cleaned it up, if you need a hand with anything give me a shout
 
Thank you everyone for all their suggestions, certainly looks like the N3eg needle is the place to start. I will let everyone know how I get on, thanks once again.
 
I have one question- gasser grant you are using slide no6 where as Harry has very similar set up bar using the standard no7 slide. How much of a difference does the slide make, and if the answer is lots what led you to change the slide.
 
I have one question- gasser grant you are using slide no6 where as Harry has very similar set up bar using the standard no7 slide. How much of a difference does the slide make, and if the answer is lots what led you to change the slide.

The slide is standard as far as im aware, I have not changed it.
im not sure if its leaner or richer hopefully someone can explain.
yo might want to up the pilot jet to a 38, I was going to down size to a 35 but I got rid of the n1ef needle
 
I have ordered the needle and a 38 and 40 pilot to see which is better, as I said I kind of want to be on the safe side, cannot afford another melted piston and block
 
don't blame you mate sounds like you have spent a lot of money on your bike.

I think your old needle is leaner ? and a 7 slide is leaner and lean is bad
 
Perfect is perfect on the idle jet. Whatever gives the best idle, then screw in half a term. Aim for about 1.5 turns out from fully seated.
 
Yeah at the moment I don't dare tally up the reciepts for the bike, and the really upsetting thing is that cosmetically it still looks tatty as all hell. At least mechanically she is sound, and after the money I have pumped into her I am not going to sell her.

Motopsycho, just out of interest why do ou only run 33.3:1 rather than the standard 50:1? It is just that I am still learning with these oil burning buggers- up till this one always had 4 strokes, which seem a lot easier with fuelling set up, but the effort sure seems worth it. Don't think I will be going back any time soon
 
Jack Lee at John Lee Motorcycles in Northants re jetted my EC300 recently and told me to run it on 80:1!

Was a bit dubious, but seeing as he raced Gassers for years thought I'd give it go.

2 x 4 hour races and 2 practice days later I'm absolutely convinced he's right - it's so crisp from absolutely nothing and revs out amazingly.

Try it and see for yourself
 
Too much oil won't hurt anything except the silencer packing. Not enough oil isn't very good for pretty much all those moving parts.

How much oil your engine needs is dependant on a range of variables from how you ride it, how its tuned, to what characteristics your particular oil has. Debating which ratio is best is a bit of a pointless exercise.. What is important is that when you pull your engine down that there is a good coating of oil on all the moving parts, and a nice little pool of it in the bottom of the crank case.
 
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