2005 EC300 vs 2007 EC300

[alecsstefan]

Hi, does anyone know what are the main differences are between a 05 EC300 and a 07 EC300? How would a 05 EC300 compare to a 07 KTM 300 exc? I'm looking for a enduro bike and can't make my mind. I came across a road registered, good looking 05 EC300 that is 2000$, a 07 EC300 not road registered, not so good looking as the previews for 2600$ and a good looking 07 ktm 300 exc for 3000$. Please help me figure out witch one of them worth my money. A lot of my friends suggested me to take the ktm for it's better resale value and aftermarket parts. But from what I've read on the internet the GG is a good and a lot cheaper choice against the ktm.

Thanks,


Alecs

 

[einsteingarage]

The GasGas is as good as the KTM and cheaper. Resale is tough, but parts are easy to get and nowhere near as expensive as KTM parts. I am saying this from experience as I went from KTM to GasGas.

The only real difference between the 05 and the 07 is the rear subframe with new plastic on it. ( one piece rear fender and single seat bolt). I would go with the better deal for your money, meaning low hours, not raced, etc.

I would take the 05 from a guy who bought it but never rode it vs. a racer who rode it but maintained it. Also consider extra/add on parts that come with each.

 

[Skidad]

Just so you know the 05 can be updated to the 07-current models if you choose to do it. Sub frame, airbox, rear plastics and maybe a few other things. The new style sub frame is much better and stronger but if your not a crasher the 05 should be fine.

You just missed a beautiful 07 here from Matt R. Be patient, even good ones when they pop up don't sell very quickly.

 

[wence]

Just another way of looking at it.
Do you buy a bike that has been raced and had all maintenance done before it probably nedds it or do you buy a bike that has hardly been ridden and maybe not maintained at all???
Food for thought, my mates and I argue this all the time.
Cheers Mark

 

[alecsstefan]

I would take the one that been raced and well maintained against the other one.

 

[iancp5]

There's no way to have your question about KTM Vs GasGas answered sensibly by anyone other than yourself having tried them. I think most people on here will recommend the GG, after all we're on a GG forum so we decided. I have owned and ridden both makes. I settled on GG for 2 reasons; 1) they seem more forgiving when I'm tired and 2) in the UK there are too many KTMs.

 

[woody1965]

i rode a ktm 300and it riped my arms off great bike but just too much power for me .settled on a ec250 which i love and that was because just too many ktm,s at the meets i go to

 

[alecsstefan]

Ok, I've made my mind on the 2007 gg ec300. I will have it probably at the end of the next week. It is fitted with fmf gnarly front pipe, fmf shorty silencer, talon wheels and hubs, radiator braces and another few minor things. It was the best deal I think.

 

[Skidad]

talon wheels and hubs

That's some serious coin right there. Nice. Double bearings on the drive side just like the GG. IMO more wheels should come this way.

Some 2007's came with the FMF Gnarly pipe BTW. It's a very good pipe and a copy of a Messico or Doma I believe = better power spread.

 

[roostafish]

I'd say if you buy a bike for $2000, you shouldn't be too worried about resale. I figure a bike is worth $1000 a year, this is why it's tough for me to consider paying $7K-$8K for a new bike. After 4 years, it's only worth $2000, then stays worth $2000 for almost an indefinite period of time as long as it's in good shape. It may not be logical, but it seems to be the way it works.

 

[alecsstefan]

Does anyone know the real weight of the 07 GG ec300? On most of the specs found on the internet they claim to be 99kg dry.

 

[Skidad]

Does anyone know the real weight of the 07 GG ec300? On most of the specs found on the internet they claim to be 99kg dry.

I see them listed as 102kg or about 225lbs dry. I would say more like 106kg or about 235lbs dry is closer to reality.

 

[gasser]

225# dry is very close. Add 15# for 2.5 gallons of gas, 1.5# for tranny oil, 2.2# for suspension fluid, 3# for water, and a little more for clutch and brake fluids. That's 247 pounds ready to ride. Different tires and tubes can add up to another 7 pounds and that still leaves bark busters, skid plate, rotor, pipe, radiator, and frame guards.

 

[NerdFrog]

My '07 EC300 ready for a long ride, fully armored up and fluids topped up weighed 260#.
I'm 205# in the buff but weighed 230# ready to roll with my armour and pack on.
For night rides, add 4# to the bike (8" Halogen Trailtech) and 3# to the rider (MR16 HID Trailtech and two battery packs)
So don't get in the way of this freight train!
Don't forget to factor in the weight of packed mud - my Hyde All-in-one regularly filled up, contributing well to an extra 30# of weight!

 

[iancp5]

Don't forget to factor in the weight of packed mud - my Hyde All-in-one regularly filled up, contributing well to an extra 30# of weight!

I find the increased sag from a muddy ride renders the side stand useless!

 

[gasser]

I find the increased sag from a muddy ride renders the side stand useless!

On the plus side the increased sag/lowered seat height makes it easier to throw a tired leg over.

 

[AZRickD]

Not much in the way of mud for most riders in Arizona.

 

[iancp5]

Not much in the way of mud for most riders in Arizona.

We've plenty you can have!
First we had loads of rain to saturate the ground, then it snowed, then it rained again and melted the snow.

 

[AZRickD]

I might eat my words for this weekend's race. We'll have five out of six days of rain.

Can silt turn to mud? We have no answer for that. No institutional knowledge.

 

[iancp5]

I might eat my words for this weekend's race. We'll have five out of six days of rain.

Can silt turn to mud? We have no answer for that. No institutional knowledge.

Hmm that sounds like fine sand to me.
Wet fine sand - I have experience of this. If confronted by a large unknown patch, STOP! Look for a way around, if not, wait for a more foolish rider, if he makes it across use his route, if he doesn't wait for another etc. Expect to have to pump your brakes after 10 mins to make them work, expect to lose them entirely after 1.5 hours. After race fit new chain, sprockets, pads, wheel bearings - if lucky. If unlucky and you sank the bike in quicksand, budget for engine work as well!
Deep mud: If you get stuck in boggy mud you need to aggressively rock the bike side to side before trying to shift it. I mean throw it on either side or as far over as you can go. In the sort of mud that closes around it, it's the only way to release the suction sometimes. Watch any helpers because many don't think and try to lift the bike by a part that breaks. I once had to find a large branch to lever my bike out with. The suction was so great even 4 people couldn't get it free. In general always try and go around or look for the solid route unless you are sure you can blast through. Sometimes a pool of water signifies a hard bottom but that's a 50/50 call.

We have several sandy areas that hold enduros near me. I pull out if it's very wet. Not only does it cost too much but I wear contact lenses and if I remove my goggles to see I get muck in my eyes that wont wash out with blinking. I'm trying some "Rip n Roll" goggles because I'm unable to finish wet events even without the sand due to eye problems.