2006 EC300 problem

fury1

fury1

New member
okay I have search for similar problems here and there are plenty
my bike is running like the choke is always on,it wont clean out or rev out,it has no power at all from 3/4 to full throttle
the top end has very lttle time on it,it has plenty of compression and has a heavy kick to start it(compared to my 200)
heres what I have tried:

*changed plug
*fresh fuel
*repacked silencer and checked for blockages
*burnt out pipe and checked for blockages
*changed air filter
*cleaned carb four of five times
*changed carb from 200 with same results
*tried dropping the needle to lean it out
*swapped CDI from 200
*removed both powervalve covers checking for opening

few things I will be trying:

*swapping out coil and plug wire from 200
*checking reeds
*disconnecting kill switch
*taking off the tank and looking for a broken wire?

any ideas? am I overlooking something simple?
Bike ran fine at our last enduro in November,
took it apart last month to replace kicker gears and now
I have this problem

*could it be a magneto problem
 
Check your reeds.

if they're OK, then you may have either of 3 problems :

a head gasket problem - are you losing any water ?. Is the exhaust showing clouds of steam ?

a crankshaft seal problem (on gearbox side) - is the bike excessively smoky ? - are you losing tranny / gearbox oil ?

An electrical problem : Try this and see if it solves the problem - remove fuel tank - you will see a yellow wire connected to another yellow wire via a spade connector by the front frame section bewteen the headstock and where the frame splits below the radiators. This is the AC gfeed from the 2K3 generator to power the lights etc. Disconnect and tape up this wire and test ride - if problem disappears then your rectifier may be faulty or the wiring behind the front light is faulty.

Let us know what you find ;)

Thanks

Fergus
 
Sounds like a CDI or Magneto problem for sure. Also cheeck those reeds too.
Click to expand...
I have tried a CDI swap already with my 200,the 200 runs fine with the 300 CDI also

Check your reeds.WILL CHECK TODAY

if they're OK, then you may have either of 3 problems :

a head gasket problem - are you losing any water ?. Is the exhaust showing clouds of steam ?NO STEAM

a crankshaft seal problem (on gearbox side) - is the bike excessively smoky ? - are you losing tranny / gearbox oil ? NOT LOSING GEAR OIL

An electrical problem : Try this and see if it solves the problem - remove fuel tank - you will see a yellow wire connected to another yellow wire via a spade connector by the front frame section bewteen the headstock and where the frame splits below the radiators. This is the AC gfeed from the 2K3 generator to power the lights etc. Disconnect and tape up this wire and test ride - if problem disappears then your rectifier may be faulty or the wiring behind the front light is faulty.
Click to expand...
WILL CHECK THIS TODAY
 
tried everything above:
*reeds ok no fraying,laying flat
*changed out coil and wire from my 200,no change
*disconnected yellow wire under gas tank,no change
 
My 300 used to do this in hot humid weather. Since having RB do the head
squish and using the CCK needle it runs MUCH better.
 
fury1 said:
Bike ran fine at our last enduro in November,
took it apart last month to replace kicker gears and now
I have this problem
Click to expand...

If it ran fine before you pulled off the side cover I would look there. Double check that the power valve is moving. I would pull off the pipe, remove the right PV cover,reinstall the pipe and run the motor and rev it up to make sure the PV is moving. Just my guess.
 
already did that and its moving,I did say that after taking it apart to change the kicker gears it hasnt run right since,but truthfully,it sat from november till january and I didnt try it when I took it out of my shed before I removed the side cover to say it was doing it after the repair
 
My 06 is doing the same thing and it is driving me crazy. I am not a mechanicly minded person so it is getting very expensive!!. Things that have been done
Carby Cleaned
new float valve
reeds checked
power valve checked
ignition and wiring
new piston and rings
new cranck shaft seals
new fmf exhaust
all new gaskets
new needle coming tomorrow
I am trying to get her ready for sale.....it has cost me close to $1500 already!!!!

It will be for sale as soon as this issue is sorted if anyone is interested
Brand new chain and sprockets
Brand new fork seals
LED tail light
Race Tech suspension
Brand new FMF silencer (powercore2)
Brand new Force raiator guards
top end rebuild (not run in)
12 months ACT rego
Brand new clutch master cylinder kit
Rockstomper footpegs
barkbusters
Bashplate
I am selling because I found a brand new 08 WR450F at a good price and thought I would try something different
I am In Canberra Australia
PM if interested
 
If you have checked all the items I mentioned, then try / check the following :

Disconnect your kill switch by the CDI (its the black wire with yellow stripe that goes into a 'bullet' connector about 2 or 3 inches from the CDI) - disconnecting it here will eliminate any potential wiring fault between CDI and kill switch itself.

Try the coil/ HT lead/ plug cap assembly from your 200.

If your jetting is OK and all the mechanical necessities are OK, then it must be an electrical prbolem.

Have you checked the magneto and pulse generator (pick up coil) resistances ?

Magneto wires are the black/red and red/white wires going to CDI - you should have approx 13 ohms across these wires.
Pulse generator/ pickup coil wires are the red and green wires going to CDI. You should have approx 100 ohms across these.

Easiest way to check these is disconnect CDI and use a couple of paperclips to stick down into the CDI connector on the loom (holes in connector are too small for regular multimeter probes)

Best of luck !!

Fergus
 
When my 06 de300 did the same thing it was because I serviced the power valves wrong. Sounds like your having a problem with the power valve to me.
 
If you have checked all the items I mentioned, then try / check the following :

Disconnect your kill switch by the CDI (its the black wire with yellow stripe that goes into a 'bullet' connector about 2 or 3 inches from the CDI) - disconnecting it here will eliminate any potential wiring fault between CDI and kill switch itself.I forgot to try the kill switch,I will give it a go

Try the coil/ HT lead/ plug cap assembly from your 200.I have already tried this with no change

If your jetting is OK and all the mechanical necessities are OK, then it must be an electrical prbolem.I have no reason to think the jetting is that far off,I have used the same jetting for 2 years

Have you checked the magneto and pulse generator (pick up coil) resistances ?this is my next step

Magneto wires are the black/red and red/white wires going to CDI - you should have approx 13 ohms across these wires.
Pulse generator/ pickup coil wires are the red and green wires going to CDI. You should have approx 100 ohms across these. thanks for this one,I didnt know what reading I would need

Easiest way to check these is disconnect CDI and use a couple of paperclips to stick down into the CDI connector on the loom (holes in connector are too small for regular multimeter probes)

Best of luck !!

Fergus
[When my 06 de300 did the same thing it was because I serviced the power valves wrong. Sounds like your having a problem with the power valve to me./QUOTE]not sure why the powervalve would just quit on me,I rebuilt the top end last year and cleaned everything and reassembled it correctly,it is moving properly now,but it will be next to check,just have to tear the top end down to service it
Click to expand...
 
Magneto wires are the black/red and red/white wires going to CDI - you should have approx 13 ohms across these wires.I have 24 ohms,but I see i said ec300,but its a DE300 and has the 2k2 ignition
Pulse generator/ pickup coil wires are the red and green wires going to CDI. You should have approx 100 ohms across these.I have 97 ohms here,
Disconnect your kill switch by the CDI (its the black wire with yellow stripe that goes into a 'bullet' connector about 2 or 3 inches from the CDI) - disconnecting it here will eliminate any potential wiring fault between CDI and kill switch itselfstill going to try this

even though the powervalve is moving,im still thinking that the P/V may be the culprit as others have suggested,what else could there be wrong???
 
Possibly a displaced ball in the PV governer, from manually moving the PV or governer during assembly. You need to look at the range of motion of the PV actuator plate under the right side cyl cover while reving the motor, it should go stop to stop. If movement is not complete, check this, as well as the belcrank setscrew to see if it has come loose (unlikely, but hey..).
 
went to try another silencer along with the P/V cover off as well,well now the bike refuses to start and has no SPARK!!!!
 
Kevin,

What does the stator look like where it mounts to the cases? Clean this up as well as all the connections.

Kill switch wires?

I have a spare 2K-2 in a box, I'll check the coil resistance and post back later.

edit: same as yours kevin, 24 ohms across the stator coil to the CDI and 92 ohms across the trigger coil.
 
Last edited:
Mate mine is sorted now!!

Check the needle jet, they are not replaceable in our carbs and when they wear they do what ours have been doing! I know you said you tried a different carb but is it's jet worn also?? A different needle can sort it.
Hope this helps
 
switched out the entire carb assembly,my 300 carb runs great on my 200,as a matter of fact I raced the 200 a couple weekends ago with zero problems
 
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