2009 GG 450FSR idle settings

A

AzWickedSS

New member
Is there a starting point with setting the idle on these bikes similar to 2t's where its seat the idle screw then a certain amount of turns out?

I just put a new fuel pump in when I switched back to the stock tank and the bike fired right up without issue. Went for a short ride and it ran great. Shut it down and it wouldn't fire back up. Let it sit and it fired up but RPM's seemed higher than usual so I started messing with the it and now I'm stuck. Bike keeps flooding upon start up now and won't fire. I put a new injector and micro filter in, made sure the battery was fully charged and still no start with smell of raw gas. The idle screw I believe is the culprit but I dont know where to start with it. Should I back it off the throttle body completely then adjust inward or vise versa? This isn't my first efi bike but its different than my last RMZ and CRF and I'm stumped
 
The 4 strokes were an absolute pain in the ass but the kokusan models were miles ahead of the early magneti marelli equipped ones.
The did have a setting but I have lost all my factory specs on them. The air bleed screws worked best around 1.5-2 turns out. If the throttle stop screw has not been played with DONT!
The idle is usually set quite high around 1800rpm.
When I was at the dealer we had the performance Gasgas map and the software to update it. Cost us a bomb from Gasgas and only worked on one dinosaur computer.
Did make them run a lot stronger and start easier. Also had the diagnostic capabilities as well.
 
I guess thats where I'm having the issues. Is there another adjustment besides the screw that under the throttle cable housing? With 2t's it was always turn all the way in then come out 1.5/2 turns and you should get the bike to fire up then you can fine tune. You mentioned an air bleed, is there one on the EFI?
 
Doesn't look like the 09 has the air bleed screw, just the idle/throttle stop screw for adjusting. I can't for the life of me figure out how much to adjust it. I guess I'll start with it just touching the throttle stop and keep adjusting in. Bike keeps flooding though since it's not firing up.
 
I was pretty sure they still had the air bleed screw. Bumping the idle up will not cure a flooding bike. Cure the symptoms first. Check for leaking injectors/faulty tps/temperature sensors etc.
 
Haven't tested actual fuel pressure. I swapped injectors a few times ( I have 4 spares) just to make sure. Wasnt having issues till I tried to mess with the idle then all hell has broke loose. I cleaned the air filter last night and need to re install and test. It was pretty oily/dirty. Spark is strong so hoping that maybe from riding it the air filter sucked some oil/dirt in and is not allowing enough air in to fire easily. I've read GG are sensitive to the idle setting.and can cause issues firing. I just can't find a baseline as to where to start ( # of turns out from all the way in, etc)
 
They were done not long ago supposedly but thats also on my list now. Whatever is going on seems fuel related though whether it's the injector or the new pump. Have a new injector I'm going to try out and pull the pump and test.
 
I believe its the correct one. IWP043 is what was in it already and the few searches I was able to find reference that one as well.
 
Had the bike apart and added new radiators, injector and plug. Got it to fire up and got idle set up. Still issues though I can't seem to figure out. I can start the bike easily cold and let it warm up etc and shit it down and it will fire right back up. I can test throttle response and what not while it's running with no issues and it would hold idle no issues and restart. As soon as I take it out for a quick spin, even if it's 100yds up the street and back, once I shut it down it will not fire back up. Going to change the fuel pump out again as I noticed when I pulled the tank the last time fuel was still running out of the line even with the pump not getting power. That doesn't seem right to me with a FI bike. I'm thinking once a load hits the electrical somewhere its causing the issues. Maybe the new fuel pump is bad, maybe a temp sensor or another sensor, maybe coil, etc. Any ideas?
 
Maybe the pump had pressureised the line and that caused some of it to flow out when you took the tank off?
 
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Can you post a video of your no start condition? Maybe it will be easier for others to spot a potential problem that way. Im not sure if this applies to the kokusan ECUs but I think some of the fuel injected bikes had problems with ECU pins having poor connections. Maybe look into that aswell?
 
Bike is apart already, going to swap the fuel pump out tomorrow and go from there again. Will try to grab video once back together again. Just odd it only won't fire after its actually ridden and shut off. Sitting idle to warm up and cracking throttle i can shut it down and it will start back up. I'm wondering if the fuel bag came off or something and there is minor debris in the tank that when ridden its enough to suck it through the pump and then clog the injector just enough. Maybe the coil or another sensor is the culprit, just don't know at this point.
 
mekket said:
Can you post a video of your no start condition? Maybe it will be easier for others to spot a potential problem that way. Im not sure if this applies to the kokusan ECUs but I think some of the fuel injected bikes had problems with ECU pins having poor connections. Maybe look into that aswell?
Click to expand...

The kokusan equipped bikes were much more reliable, starting and running.
 
Gasser Nate, everything I've found online suggests the same thing about the efi system. No as problematic as previous one. I'm just stumped since it always happens after actually riding it. I'm thinking it's a sensor or fuel pump once it really needs to work since otherwise it fires up easily.

I read these bikes like to it up around 2k rpms, any idea what idle is with a cold start during warm up?
 
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They are supposed to idle at 1800 +/- 50rpm.
They also do not have a fast idle circuit as such but do obviously have and enrichener map.
 
Pulled the cam cover off and was able to get measurements. Guessing they need adjustment as they are a bit tight. Trying to find what the exact range is though. Read .15mm intake and. 20mm exhaust on another thread but not sure what the gapping is around those numbers.

Readings I got
Intake
L -.10MM
R - .13MM

Exhaust
L - .18mm
R - .18mm

Now I saw several people say DRZ shims work, any idea if its year specific for those?
 
The shims are 9.48mm - the same as DRZ and many other bikes.

Intake 0.10mm ~ 0.20mm
Exhaust 0.20mm ~ 0.30mm

I have always set mine up according to this and tried to get it in the middle of the ranges so 0.15mm for the intake and 0.25mm for the exhaust.
 
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