2009 GG 450FSR idle settings

Shimmed the valves and they are within spec. Intakes is at .14 and. 15 and exhaust .26 and .28.

Bike fired right up and sounded good, let it warm up and shut her down then no fire again. This time though it sounds like its almost there. It almost turns over hot and fires but just won't fully commit.

Difference this time around is if I let it sit for 5-10min it will fire back up where as before the motor had to completely cooled down. Basically a few hours or even just had to wait till the next day. I warmed it up and checked spark and its very strong. It almost seems like something is getting heat soaked and causing the no start. Still going through the bike and checking grounds but what else? Coolant sensor seems to be working according to the multimeter as temp goes up resistance goes down.
 
Maybe you could try to bumpstart it when its not turning on. If it starts easily then, you could be looking at a starter or battery related issue? What oil are you running?
 
I've tested the battery and also used a spare car battery i have as a jumper with no luck. As for oil I put motul 4t oil in.
 
You could still have problems with the cranking speed due to too thin battery cables or a worn starter or something else. Im not saying that you do but it is a possibility. If you can bump start it when its hot and it will not start with e-start then I would be looking at the starter and everything related to its performance.
 
I'll dig into that as well, I'm going shim down a size on the exhaust valves so they sit at .23 instead of .28. Have read several different specs on them but they all start at .20 and go to .25 or .30. When they were tight I got no sign of firing up after the bike was ran, now it wants to but its off just a bit. Maybe they are too loose now and should fall in the .20-.25 range.

Running 98 octane as well, not sure if that could cause anything compared to 91/93 octane since it technically burns slower but cleaner.
 
I think the manual calls for 98 octane to be honest.
I have a 450 pampera that has been converted into a supermoto - pretty much the same engine as you but it has a carb instead of EFI. It has always been a hard starter. I even bought a lithium battery to see if that would help but now my starter clutch is slipping. I have been push starting it for the last couple of months now. I also had a 2008 515 FSR that I bought this summer to fix and sell. Never had any starting issues with it hot or cold. I did put a new battery on it but it sure seemed that it was cranking over noticeably faster than my 450. I am planning on taking my starter apart to see if it has any wear or needs to be cleaned as well as fixing the starter clutch issue. To bump start my 450 I usually run along the bike until I reach about 15 kmh or 10mph and then I usually throw it into 2nd and jump on the seat just as I release the clutch. Seems to start pretty much every time like this. Even easier when its hot. Might be more difficult on off road tires.

I've read on the 2stroke section that they add thicker wires from either the battery to ground or to the starter to make them start easier. I have been thinking of trying this as well.

A silly idea but you could try letting the fuel pump prime 2 or 3 times before starting by turning the kill switch/ignition on and off.
 
I've the fuel pump priming multiple times and even put a new fuel pump and injector in it. I haven't found a details service manual yet for this bike that give me all the info and wiring schematic break downs either. Doing the shims again now and will keep at it.
 
How do you check and clean the starter. Etc? Its so close to firing when hot now. Almost starts the process of idling but won't fully fire. Let sit for 5min and it fires up now.
 
I have not taken mine apart yet but i believe that there are plenty of videos on youtube. I would make sure the brushes are not worn and making decent contact with the commutator bar. But to me it seems like you still have some sort of fuel issue. You could try taking the sparkplug out and adding a tiny amount of fuel down the hole right into the cylinder and then screwing the sparkplug back on and starting it. If it starts then you most probably have a fuel issue.
 
I have multiple injectors and no real change when putting a new one in. Maybe one of the sensors that communicates with the computer but I don't have a diagram of whats what. Coolant sensor, air sensor, etc thats not supplying the right amount of fuel/timing when hot. Not sure but its driving me a bit crazy
 
Hi
I am having similar issues to yours. Bike is very hard to cold start, it floods. When flooded, if I turn to start engine with the fuel pump disconnected, then it backfires and starts, and then I switch the fuel pump on again. I though it could be the fuel pressure regulator, which lets the pressure being too high, but it is not. Maybe it is the throttle sensor, which signal is too high, and the cdi commands fuel...I Will order a TPS and replace it, but the question is, hoy can I config the TPS range in the Kokusan CDI?
 
Have you checked your valves yet? If its hard to start cold valves have always been the culprit for me. My issue is it fires up cold easily but once warmed up and ridden it won't fire.

I have a new coolant sensor on the way and I pulled the ambient temp sensor last night that was caked in dirt so I'm hoping one or the other clears it up. I feel like it's a sensor that's either getting heat soaked and telling the computer to add to much fuel or vise versa.
 
Also the fuel injectors have been known to cause issues if anything clogs them the smallest amount. They can be had for like $10 online depending where you're located. Search IWP043. Got mine through Amazon since it was the quickest way for me.
 
Valve clearance is fine, I checked it, and the injector is new. I hace a spare of the water temperature sensor, the one located at the cylinder, but I do not know about the ambient temperature sensor, where is it?
 
Air sensor is in the air box, right side near starter relay. You can see it barely if you remove the filter and can also access it by removing right side number plate on exhaust side. It's a small resistor type sensor, mine was covered up with dried dirt pretty good. Haven't put it back yet though and tried to fire it up. Was reading some ducati forums and its cause hard/ no stats with a lot of people. I don't know the PN off hand and hoping I can cross reference to something easily available.
 
MikelDuke said:
Valve clearance is fine, I checked it, and the injector is new. I hace a spare of the water temperature sensor, the one located at the cylinder, but I do not know about the ambient temperature sensor, where is it?
Click to expand...

The water temp sensor connected to the cylinder head should be responsible for turning on the radiator fan and as far as I know it has nothing to do with EFI.

AzWickedSS said:
Air sensor is in the air box, right side near starter relay. You can see it barely if you remove the filter and can also access it by removing right side number plate on exhaust side. It's a small resistor type sensor, mine was covered up with dried dirt pretty good. Haven't put it back yet though and tried to fire it up. Was reading some ducati forums and its cause hard/ no stats with a lot of people. I don't know the PN off hand and hoping I can cross reference to something easily available.
Click to expand...

https://www.roadraceperformanceshropshire.com/products/bsd-ducati-air-temperature-sensor Is this the sensor you are looking for? Ducati p/n 552.4.012.1A
 
That looks like the air sensor.

My bike didn't come with a fan, from what I read the temp sensor does communicate with the computer and can affect hot startingif it's not telling the computer the right readings
 
Have you made any progress? I took apart my starter motor. The brushes were quite worn and the bearing in the front of the starter is completely destroyed. I am still waiting for a new bearing and probably will be for a while because the only place I could find a suitable bearing was aliexpress and shipping from there takes ages. New brushes were easier to find. A brushplate from a DRZ400 fit perfectly and was around 10$
 
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