2010/2011 Side stand mount and lower chain guide

Jakobi

Super Moderator
A common problem with these models I know.

I noticed some damage to mine a few months back and removed the side stand to stop things getting worse. It didn't really help. I just noticed that some time between then and now the whole section that tacks onto the frame is now gone. I have a spare TM Design Works lower guide and bolts so no biggy. I'm going to have to fab something up and I'll have a mate weld it on properly, however I can't remember how the side stand mounts. Its probably easiest to just do a small tab for the lower guide, but I'd really prefer to get the stand back on, or at least have the option to mount it up again for if/when I sell the bike.

So can someone please take a few pics for me :) If you've experienced the same thing and fixed it better then I'll really love pics! And if anyone sells a replacement option that would be even better again!

Cheers
Jake
 
Quick bump on my own thread.

Checked the exploded diagrams and looks like I can basically just order the whole section I have lost. I'll that I'll need to do is weld on a small tab where the other old one cracked off (where the whole was), and bolt the whole kit up as one.

Anyone know what these are worth of have one in stock? I'm not feeling confident that GG Aus will have one. Never the less if I just add a tab I can probably still put in a work around until it arrives. I'd rather not ride without the roller there.
 
Scottys have the mount, 50 bucks if I remember, red loctite is your friend with this part. Can't believe yours has lasted this long!
 
Do you remember what the lower tab looked like? From memory the lower chain roller bolts in from the back side doesn't it? Is there a bolt that goes through the frame tab and into the mount? My memory doesn't hold up well and the exploded diagram isn't very clear.

I'll email Scotty tonight and hopefully he can have one out to me tomorrow. Thanks Simmo.
 
Just repaired this on my bike, the tab snapped but stayed put between the bolt and stand mount. I (ok dad he can weld) welded the tab back and also welded a 1mm steel washer there for support.

I think the bolt goes through a sleeve which is through the roller which then goes through the frame tab and into the stand mount?

Ill have a look and take some pics in the morning for you.
 
I think Nathan is on the money, the lower roller is where it usually gets loose and cracks around the frame bolt from the stand swinging up. I used red loctite on the frame and roller and never had another problem.
 
I have welded 2 of those. Frame material needs to get hot enough to make a good connection. It's allso good to make new piece that is thicker than original small C-piece.
 
Do you really need the stand? The woods are full of stands.:D I just take mine off every new GG. The '12 LOOKS a lot better, but I'm not going to give it a chance to fail.
 
Do you really need the stand? The woods are full of stands.:D I just take mine off every new GG. The '12 LOOKS a lot better, but I'm not going to give it a chance to fail.

I don't personally need the stand, but as part of ADR (Road registration) its meant to be on there along with mirrors, lights, etc etc. Not so much a problem while riding every weekend but a definite requirement if you want to sell the bike with rego. Also not much fun when you pull up at the pub and everyone else is drinking beer while you're still looking for a good place to lean your bike ;)

I have welded 2 of those. Frame material needs to get hot enough to make a good connection. It's allso good to make new piece that is thicker than original small C-piece.

That was my plan. Did the same thing with the front frame tab that connects the lower pipe mount. Somehow managed to snap that right off.

Just repaired this on my bike, the tab snapped but stayed put between the bolt and stand mount. I (ok dad he can weld) welded the tab back and also welded a 1mm steel washer there for support.

I think the bolt goes through a sleeve which is through the roller which then goes through the frame tab and into the stand mount?

Ill have a look and take some pics in the morning for you.

Thanks Nath. That would be ace. If its just a small tab with a hole drilled in it lifes good and easy. One of my riding mates just lives 5mins down the road and has a welder. He'll just pop over for a cool one when I'm ready.

To those who have repaired. Did you weld it from both sides for a better join? Did you remove the swingarm for access or could you get in there with it still on? I have to replace my silencer mounts so might as well go about regreasing all the pivots and doing the job right. Looks like heavy rain is going to set in now anyway. Also, how worried would you be about the CDI? Disconnect before welding or just make sure you earth close to the weld?
 
When I noticed the mount had cracked I was re-greasing linkages etc anyway so swing arm was already off. No doubt it is easier to get in there with a welder though without the swingarm being in the way.

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In this photo below you can see the order of things. Bolt from the inside through the roller/sleeve through the chassis tab (which is snapped in the photo) then into the stand mount.

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Dad tac welded the bracket back to the frame from both sides, then welded the washer onto the back side of the bracket and welded it all the way round. It looks a lot more solid now, is twice as thick as standard and touch wood shouldn't be a problem anymore.

My problem I think was after unloading the bike from the ute I always lifted the front wheel in the air using the stand to support the bike while I used the fork bleeders to equalise fork air pressure. Won't do that anymore, probably unnecessary stress.
 
Right on Right on.

I'll disconnect the CDI and get the other earths undone. I'll remove the swingarm for access. I''ll have it welded and then bolt my brand new gold plated $120 worth of parts back on there. Heres hoping she sees out another 7000kms!

PS. Nath - Pretty sure thats how I broke mine. Not pulling the bike to lift the front/rear wheel. I've never felt that this is good for any side stand, let alone gassers flimsy option, but I do think it was during giving the bike a good pull trying to get some solid ground under it. Ooops.
 
Just an update. Parts have arrived from Scottys. Very exy OEM pieces of metal for sure! I joked around saying they should at least throw in a couple stickers and they rebutted by sending me about 50! Someones cleaned out the workshop and stuffed em all in my order. Hahah! Good value Scottys! :D

The back end of the bikes been stripped down. Swingarm and linkage removed. All bearings greased and very to please only one had a few beads of water in it. No corrosion! The swingarm pivot even came out with not much more than a few light taps with a rubber mallet. Got to love that molygrease. I'm going to try and heat up the carb boot and see if I can clearance it from the shock a bit more while its down, and also replace the rubber gromets on the silencer. Mates coming around to do the weld up tomorrow! After that she'll be good to go until the next lot of goodies arrive!

... Guts seat foam and cover
... G2 quick pull
... YZ kick starter

Then keep rackin up hours until the bottom end comes apart! Go S3 Gas Gas!
 
Dodgy weld job done! :) Ended up just using a part of the old mount that had snapped at the top bolt so its a bit thicker by nature. Its not the prettiest weld but it has been hit from both sides and should be stronger than it was stock. I think I might just run either the GG roller with a nylock nut on the end as I won't be using the kick stand. I'll save my exy part for another day. Either that or I will run a typical bearing style TM Designworks roller for now to see how the weld holds up. Good stuff!
 
All done. Bike back together. Linkages like new. Ended up going with the TM Designworks lower roller. Had to shim it out with 2 washers to get the distance right, and then used another washer on the other side of the tab and a nylock nut + loctite. I might get a pic up if anyone wants one.
 
Could be, but I rarely let mine flick back. I'm sure mine happened while pulling the bike back firmly onto the stand when it kept feeling like it was going to fall or sink into the ground. Its only a thin tab it mounts on really.
 
Really seems the kick stands on these were an after thought. Hopefully the design will get better? Seems like the 12' and 13's are a little beefier.
 
They are, but I still don't use them. One more thing to fail or hit in a fall. Everyone has their needs but this is not one of mine.

The stock roller seems crude, but its completely bulletproof with no bearing to seize. As simple as possible to do the job correctly is always best. All that clearance allows mud to be ejected. I think I've replaced the steel sleeve twice in twelve years on four different bikes for wear.
 
Hey jake, looking in my parts box I found a g2 100 and 200 cam, were you after them? I'm not going to use a g2 on the next bike.
 
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