2012 EC250 brake pedal

robszombie

robszombie

New member
Well, bent the brake pedal badly at the last race, managed to sraighten it fairly well. Bought a new one & will keep the original as a spare. I'm gonna be more careful of the pedal in future. 125 euros!!!!
 
I don't like the idea of drilling the pedal to mount the snake, as it would weaken the pedal. can they be looped around the pedal instead?
 
robszombie said:
I don't like the idea of drilling the pedal to mount the snake, as it would weaken the pedal. can they be looped around the pedal instead?
Click to expand...

You are only talking about a 3/32" hole, very minimum and I've had it on the last 10 bikes with no issues, and I can be a very rough brake abuser. Much, much better than a bent or broke lever in the middle of a race. Just make sure you leave enough slack in the cable for the brake lever movement. I usually either wrap the other end around the frame bottom rail or drill a small hole in the skid plate. I don't ever use the little mounting tab they give you to bolt under a motor side cover bolt, yuk, no thank you.

But if you don't want to drill the brake tip, yes you can tightly wrap the cable around the brake tip in one of two ways, I've tried both. One way is to route it thru the brake tip and cinch it up tight and as long as it sits between the tip teeth you never even feel it when braking. The other way is to wrap it around the brake lever itself and cinch it up tight just behind where the brake tip mounts to the brake lever. I don't like this one as much as the cable, even when tight, can still slip down the brake lever.

Honestly, there is not an issue with drilling a very small hole in the forward end of the brake tip, just put it in the appx middle of the brake tip "meat" of the material and you'll be fine.
 
I just used the 3rd hold for the brake tip that is unused either front or rear when you decide where you want the tip to set. I would think that nice feature would exist on the '12 as well.
 
I make my own using 3/32" diameter braided steel cable and either two aluminum end stops or one end stop and an aluminum ferrel. I drill a larger hole in the brake pedal tip to accomodate the larger cable. I drill another hole in my skid plate, making it slightly lower than the brake pedal tip in the resting position. That way you can make the cable nice and tight. When you depress the brake, the cable loosens slightly. You should still verify your cable isn't limiting travel of your brake pedal before your next ride.
 
does this mean the new pedal design is not the ticket....

i make brake snake outta old clutch cable, 2 ferrules, and a piece of vent hose over it. definitely make sure you have slack enough to fully depress brake.
 
I've had a brake snake snag something and that bent the pedal once! I don't bother anymore, but they do help sometime. If the pedals bend/break occasionally I fix then with the HTS2000 rods and a MAPP torch.
 
If you've ever had sapling get stuck between your brake pedal and frame, you'll always run a brake snake. It's really hard to back up when your rear brake is stuck full-on.
 
I snapped off several brake levers due to fresh trail.. sapling jamming in so bad even after snapping off most of the brake.. One on my 03 250 and two on my 97 250.. The snake would help..
 
DSC00148.jpg


That little hole in the brake pedal tip looks like the perfect place to attach a snake ;)
 
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