2013 200cc bike?

I just rode a '12 for the second time today. '13 200 is coming to US, but no electric start. It can be retro fittted to the 200 though.
 
Nice bike! Handles well and has good power. First ride was grass track and this was tight technical off camber. Lack of steering lock on the '12 was very apparent, compared to my Husky WR165 and Husaberg TE250. Seat will make a stand up rider out of anyone!
 
Don't worry about me.. I'm just the resident bogan skippy :p

Good news NHuskys! Have you spent any seat time on GG 250 or 300s to compare against them? I'm seriously considering putting a 2013 model in the shed next to my 2010 model.
 
I got limited time on '13 300... more power than I think I need, but off course my 300 riding friends say, just use what you need and you'll never run out at a bad time. I want to ride a 250 before I make a final decision.

I prefer the lower height and increased steering lock of the '13. Even a substantial price difference won't get me on a '12, in the tight, off camber trails I ride. If you ride more open terrain, this may not be important to you.
 
The steering lock is VERY easy to fix. Just put steering lock bolts with smaller heads in the triple clamps. That is all the factory did. :)
 
About the steering lock, you can only increase it slightly until the forks hit the frame. I have mine fine tuned with shims so there is barely 1mm clearance. Its still noticeable and bothers me at times. Last race the zig-zag ribboned off before scoring was so tight I had to stop and spin the tire to turn. All the other issues I have fixed but this one would be tough.

Is the '13 frame any more narrow across the spars where the fork tubes make contact? Please measure this on a '13. If not then just make the best of the '12 like I did. I really don't find it a problem on the trail much, just in scoring and moving the bike around.
 
The steering lock is VERY easy to fix. Just put steering lock bolts with smaller heads in the triple clamps. That is all the factory did. :)
I just took mine out , much better now , i may put something back in just to stop the forks hitting the frame though:rolleyes:
 
About the steering lock, you can only increase it slightly until the forks hit the frame. I have mine fine tuned with shims so there is barely 1mm clearance. Its still noticeable and bothers me at times. Last race the zig-zag ribboned off before scoring was so tight I had to stop and spin the tire to turn. All the other issues I have fixed but this one would be tough.

Is the '13 frame any more narrow across the spars where the fork tubes make contact? Please measure this on a '13. If not then just make the best of the '12 like I did. I really don't find it a problem on the trail much, just in scoring and moving the bike around.

I will measure the 2 bikes tomorrow. I noticed that the bolt head was half the size of the head on the 12.
 
I will measure the 2 bikes tomorrow. I noticed that the bolt head was half the size of the head on the 12.

That was true on one side of the 2013 I just prepped ... but not the other.

You do want to make sure you've got clearance between the fork leg and the frame or radiator guards or whatever is close however.

I had to locate a fresh set of fork tubes for a Kawasaki rider once ... he'd crashed and broken the cast stopper off his lower triple clamp, and the next time he wadded his aluminum fork tube made intimate and intense contact with the steel frame tube ... ugly!
 
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