2014 factory 300 topend failure (5h)

D

davidof

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So my bike just broke down. Was out doing some great winterriding when I noticed a change in the engine. Was close to home so I rode It real slow home. Did'nt feel like walking with the bike in deep snow and - 12C.
Took the cylinderhead of the bike today and It wasn't pretty. Will clean the bore tonight and see how bad the damage is. The problem seems to be a waterleak that caused the coolant to dissapear. The radiators was completly empty when I took It apart.

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davidof said:
So my bike just broke down. Was out doing some great winterriding when I noticed a change in the engine. Was close to home so I rode It real slow home. Did'nt feel like walking with the bike in deep snow and - 12C.
Took the cylinderhead of the bike today and It wasn't pretty. Will clean the bore tonight and see how bad the damage is. The problem seems to be a waterleak that caused the coolant to dissapear. The radiators was completly empty when I took It apart.

View attachment 6254

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Click to expand...

Looks like a partial seizure on all four corners. I would be looking at having the cylinder re-plated. Or, a new s3 cylinder is an option, if you want to spend the money.

Any idea how you lost the coolant?
 
Yeah I'm gonna send It away and have It replated. Headgasket is the prime suspect at this moment.

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It may clean up with a diamond hone. The marks are likely aluminum transferred from the piston to the bore surface. What oil and ratio were you running?
 
At that temp we are probably seeing a "cold seizure". Bike needs to be warm. Block off radiators etc.

Jeff
 
I had a similar melt down shortly after getting my '13 300. Lost all coolant. Bike was running a little funny but I never smelled coolant so it wasn't suspect. I rode technical rocky single track for about 30 miles before a final 4th gear WOT run up a steep mountain road back to the truck. It just died near the top. Wouldn't start. No compression. When I took it a part, most of the fasteners on the top end we're just hand tight.

Was that where my coolant went? Maybe.

The motor had gotten so hot the o-rings in the head had disintegrated. So maybe that's why the bolts weren't tight.

Anyway. I did have a similar experience. I was able to clean up the cylinder and re-use it. I replaced the water pump seal, new top end, etc... 80 hrs on it now and it's been fine.
 
Zman said:
It may clean up with a diamond hone. The marks are likely aluminum transferred from the piston to the bore surface. What oil and ratio were you running?
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I could just clean It up and throw in a new piston and the bike should probably run great. I would still know that It's not 100% ok and that I don't like so I'm gonna send It away anyway. I run the bike on premixed alkylat.

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shang said:
I had a similar melt down shortly after getting my '13 300. Lost all coolant. Bike was running a little funny but I never smelled coolant so it wasn't suspect. I rode technical rocky single track for about 30 miles before a final 4th gear WOT run up a steep mountain road back to the truck. It just died near the top. Wouldn't start. No compression. When I took it a part, most of the fasteners on the top end we're just hand tight.

Was that where my coolant went? Maybe.

The motor had gotten so hot the o-rings in the head had disintegrated. So maybe that's why the bolts weren't tight.

Anyway. I did have a similar experience. I was able to clean up the cylinder and re-use it. I replaced the water pump seal, new top end, etc... 80 hrs on it now and it's been fine.
Click to expand...
Funny my topend bolts was also loose. No damage on the o-rings. There's a clear trace of coolant all the way around the cylinderhead, so I guess there is where It went. If I rode It more often I probably could have noticed It earlier.

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Soon It will be up and runing again. New oem piston, gaskets and replated cylinder.
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That looks like the Emgo shifter. I have one on my bike and I like it better than stock.
 
More problems. I'm getting coolant in the cylinder and It's dripping out of the drainage to the powervalve cover. I have checked the orings and the head for cracks, but they are ok. What can cause this problem?

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Only really a couple things it could be.

Head or head O-rings
Cylinder or base gaskets
or the area at the front of the cases.

You'd have to be unfortunate to have the gasket between the cases just fail, but it's a worst case scenario.
 
Jakobi said:
Only really a couple things it could be.

Head or head O-rings
Cylinder or base gaskets
or the area at the front of the cases.

You'd have to be unfortunate to have the gasket between the cases just fail, but it's a worst case scenario.
Click to expand...

Or a cracked cylinder water jacket wall (worst case scenario).
 
pscook said:
Or a cracked cylinder water jacket wall (worst case scenario).
Click to expand...

That was included in my 'cylinder or gaskets'.

I'd probably still rather drop the coin on a whole new jug than have to split the cases just to address a coolant leak. Not that splitting the cases is hard, its just more 'work' as opposed to more 'dollars'.. But they do say time is money!
 
Jakobi said:
Only really a couple things it could be.



You'd have to be unfortunate to have the gasket between the cases just fail, but it's a worst case scenario.
Click to expand...

I have been that unfortunate. If you can eliminate the cylinder head as the possible source of the leak (including water jacket, base gasket, and o-rings) you may have to split the cases to identify the leak in the cases, in front of the crank case.

After I was pretty damn certain that my leak was not at the water jacket (cracked head), base gasket, or o-rings, I filled the coolant system with the crank case drain plug removed. Sure enough I would get a dribble of coolant out of the crank case drain. After splitting the cases (for a second time) I found the leak, between the cases, at the coolant passage.

I would not assume this is your issue, and would trouble shoot the other potential culprits first, but I would consider this a possibility.
 
I have a question. I've sent the cylinder away for replating. To prep It before plating It gets sandblasted. I noticed now that there is a rough surface in the groves for the o-rings. Is It possible that the problem is there?

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