2018-2019 AXP Xtrem Skidplates in Red or Black

My experience with these AXP guards on the 2019 EC 250/300 models is that they don't fit out of the box, unless they have been modified in the last couple of months. I bought mine last October.

GasGas have changed the sump drain bolt on the 2019 from a flush type with countersunk allen hex to a standard hex head that stands proud of the cases. This proud head fouls the rear frame hooks on the guard and you can't get them into position.

I emailed AXP to ask them about this but they didn't realise as they had not checked fitment on the 2019 models at that time.

You can replace the 2019 sump bolt with a 2018 item and the 6mm will fit fine. The 8mm type is too rigid to get the rear linkage guard into position. I gave up after several hours of fighting it and swapped to a 6mm.

My riding buddy had to heavily modify his 8mm guard to get it to fit his 2019 including moving one of the rear frame hooks to clear the sump bolt and heating the linkage flap to bend it. I think he had to cut the flap back a little as well.

All that aside, these are really well made products and very robust. I much prefer a plastic guard to a metal one.
 
Jacob, there is a little better side coverage on the AXP compared to the TMD. We have photos of both skidplates mounted on our site www.gasgaspartshouse.com for reference. Plus the AXP is thicker. We run the AXP products on our race team and have had no issues with fitment. The oil drain hole is in the wrong spot, but I take mine off every time for an oil change to do some better cleaning under there anyways.

Both TMD and AXP are great options, I had a red TMD before my black AXP both with linkage protection
 
RudolfHucker, thats interesting. We run the AXP 8mm on our race team and our personal bikes and have never had to modify any. We do prefer the sunk allen head for the drains though. One less thing to get potentially ripped off or smashed during a race and leave you with a DNF.

AXP may have slightly modified their design in production after you received yours?

Agreed, thick plastic is the way to go. What else have you done to your 2019?
 
I'm in the UK and the bike is plated for road use but we have stupid EU rules for some things so I have done the following to help improve the bike.

1. Rewired the electrics with KTM switches to allow the lights to be turned off front and rear. EU regulation require the lights to stay on but screw them, we are leaving that banana republic! This also allows a more familiar engine start button on the throttle side and engine kill on the LHS.
2. Fitted a Motion Pro KTM T3 throttle cable to replace the Oem And get a safer screw-in fitment at throttle and carb end. Not a perfect fit and I'll be watching if Motion Pro bring out a more specific cable with a moulded curve at the carb end. Access to the carb is very cramped.
3. Fitted all white plastics with custom camo graphics.
4. Fitted KTM/X-Trig PHDS to kill bad engine vibes. Needed to make up some custom adapters to match the PHDS to the GG top yoke. Have also injected silicone into the handlebars. I have had severe and painful arm cramps after 1-2 hours riding that have needed medical treatment.
5. Changed the sidestand bushes to remove the suicide flip-up EU requirement.
6. Will be addng some Fasst Impact Pegs to further address the vibration. Just found some used KTM pattern ones that should fit.
7. Fitted a TM Designworks rear chain guide. RCG-KT3. 1st thing I change on any new bike.
8. Tried a TM swingarm slider, DCS-KT3 on the assumption that the GG swingarm is the same as a KTM linkage model. The top bolt fits fine but the bottom does not line up. What a PITA!
9. Reset float height and rejetted with NEDW needle to address way over rich running.
10. Lined the back of the headlight with black gaffer tape as more light shines back in the rider's eyes than forward on the road!!
11. Fitted a threaded insert into the back of the countershaft cover to replace the silly back nut on the bolt that's a pain to fit and tends to shake loose.
12. Adapted an Enduro Engineering front axle puller to fit by drilling out the centre bolt hole. This lets the split section to take up the slack and pull up tight.
13. EE wraparound hand guards, Motion Pro Titan throttle tube (with removable tube end) and Renthal dual compound kevlar grips. More anti vibration tactics including nylon washers on the hand guard bolts.

The bike will get Supersprox sprockets when the OEM are ready to change. Stealth rear. Part number 1512, same as the Italian Husqvarnas. Like the Beta RRs, do NOT fit a KTM Stealth rear sprocket or you WILL snap off at least 1 mounting lug. The bolt holes are only about 0.2 mm different but it's enough. Also in the lookout for BPD rad guards at a sensible price. May take a while.

It's very frustrating that the wide range of excellent USA made aftermarket parts are not available directly in the UK. The exchange rate and import duties hike the prices up too much. A 100 dollar item can end up costing 150 pounds sterling after shipping, exchange rate and import duties. Roll on WTA trade deals post Brexit or a cheap air ticket and a large empty suitcase!
 
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MotoCenterGasGas said:
Jacob, there is a little better side coverage on the AXP compared to the TMD. We have photos of both skidplates mounted on our site www.gasgaspartshouse.com for reference. Plus the AXP is thicker. We run the AXP products on our race team and have had no issues with fitment. The oil drain hole is in the wrong spot, but I take mine off every time for an oil change to do some better cleaning under there anyways.

Both TMD and AXP are great options, I had a red TMD before my black AXP both with linkage protection
Click to expand...

Thank you! That is exactly the information I was looking for. It looks like I will be buying the AXP when the TMD is completely thrashed, it wont be long....:D
 
I have one on my 2018. Coverage is reasonable, better than stock. Fitment was a challenge.. Bit of work getting the hooks over the frame rails.

I had one issue in use, where I poorly attempted to clear some exposed roots. Managed to get the root wedged between the linkage and the skid as the bike dropped backwards over the root. This flexed the whole bashy enough to unclip the hooks from the frame. I doubt this would happen often, but I did it!! Fortunately, I somewhow flexed the hooks up enough and a good kick snapped it back into place. There is some additional play in it now from where the hooks have bent away from the main plate a bit. I think I'll probably need to get some heat into it to fixerrrup.
 
Thats sounds impressive how you managed that!! haha, but freak things happen I guess. Be happy you have roots! lol not much of that out here in the desert =(
 
Rudolf, do you have a pic?? Id like to see the white with the graphics =) Bummer about the parts availability over there =/ we keep everything here in stock after offer worldwide shipping if you haven't check our prices. Let us know how we can help you out.

www.gasgaspartshouse.com

Also, do you feel a lot of vibration in the bars? what type of bars do you run?
 
Thanks for the offer. I shall look at your website and check out what you stock.

I have had a number of KTMs and a Beta 300RR before the GG and a number of aftermarket parts have moved from bike to bike. Just moved from a 2015 KTM 300EXC and a lot of parts have transfed across.

The majority of the vibration is through the bars and has caused havoc in my hands and arms. The GG and KTM have the same Neken bars. I never rode the KTM 300 without the PHDS instaĺled having moved the PHDS from the previous KTM 250EXC as soon as I bought it. I have ridden the KTM for up to 10 hours a day without these vibration issues so I am hoping that this weekend will be better having adapted the PHDS to fit the GG and today I have added a 2nd hand set of Fasstco Impact Pegs.

I shall look out a photo of the camo graphics and post it. They were created by Moto Shack in the UK and the guys there are really skilled and pleasant to deal with.

https://www.motoshackcustomgraphics.co.uk/
 
White plastics with camo graphics
 

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MotoHead said:
Do you have to remove the pipe in order to install or uninstall the skid plate?
Click to expand...

yes, at least in the case of the "extreme" model with water pump and ignition protection. (2018 model)

FWIW, if you move the frame support bracket off of the drain hole to the left and drill an access hole to reach the drain plug you can change the oil without removing the skid plate.
 
dzhitshard said:
yes, at least in the case of the "extreme" model with water pump and ignition protection. (2018 model)

FWIW, if you move the frame support bracket off of the drain hole to the left and drill an access hole to reach the drain plug you can change the oil without removing the skid plate.
Click to expand...

Nahh ya don't!

I have the extreme on my 2018 and I can flex on/off with the pipe in place. It's a right pain getting the linkage part to snap into place, but the front can certainly be flexed up with the pipe in place.
 
Jakobi said:
Nahh ya don't!

I have the extreme on my 2018 and I can flex on/off with the pipe in place. It's a right pain getting the linkage part to snap into place, but the front can certainly be flexed up with the pipe in place.
Click to expand...

I would be very interested in seeing a quick video of this.
Your bike have an EC or XC pipe? I wonder if there is a difference in the belly diameter of the pipes that may allow a little more clearance. I worked on it for a while & I'm almost certain my XC wasn't clearing it no matter what approach I used.

I'd love to be wrong. frankly the bike is a bit noisy with the plate being able to shift right because I moved the mounting bracket. I modded it mostly because there was no way I was pulling the pipe and skid plate every time I changed the oil.
 
dzhitshard said:
I would be very interested in seeing a quick video of this.
Your bike have an EC or XC pipe? I wonder if there is a difference in the belly diameter of the pipes that may allow a little more clearance. I worked on it for a while & I'm almost certain my XC wasn't clearing it no matter what approach I used.

I'd love to be wrong. frankly the bike is a bit noisy with the plate being able to shift right because I moved the mounting bracket. I modded it mostly because there was no way I was pulling the pipe and skid plate every time I changed the oil.
Click to expand...

Haven't taken my XC250 pipe off once to get mine on. Just get a bit forthright with it. Pair of gloves on helps! Get frame rail hooks in position first then flex front under pipe & give it a good whack to get over pipe mount. Mine has chewed a bit of plastic out going over pipe mount so fits piece of piss now! Maybe a bit of dremel work if ya worried but they go on fine. They're plastic-they flex!

Pull mine every 3-4 rides to change oil. Easy as. Buy a 10mm ratchet ring spanner(got one from China for a few bucks) to speed up bolt removal. Can seriously fit or remove in minutes. Hardest bit is the bolt removal/installation.
 
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