2018 GP300 not starting / breaking kickstarters

Neil E. said:
If the ignition timing is too far advanced you could get a "kick back" happening. This could happen by kick or estart. There is an oval washer that locates the stator plate in it's mounting slots. If this washer is missing, the timing could be way off.

The only way to find out is to remove the cover and pull the flywheel (a special puller is required).
Click to expand...

Well, turns out the Neil E. had a point. The washer /cotter pin what ever you call it was nicely cutted in half and flywheel had moved a bit. This in turn makes the ignition to have too much "forward" timing leading to a nice kick back.

Have no idea how this could have happened but now a lot of things make sense; the kick back, rough running, easy stalling etc.

But the starting issue has to be of different origin, since the engine doesn't turn at all :confused:

Anyway, thank's for the help so far, the battle continues...
 

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Well that's great news, a big step forward and explains a lot!

That's the 'Woodruff Key' that has sheared.

The reason it's sheared is probably because the flywheel was not pushed securely onto the taper of the crankshaft, maybe the flywheel nut wasn't tightened properly? Maybe dirt/debris on the taper not allowing it to seat properly? Maybe damage to the taper on the crankshaft or taper on the flywheel?

Before you fit a new Woodruff Key, carefully inspect both tapers, run your fingers around both tapers feeling for any damage or 'high spots'.

All the best, Dave.
 
No new woodruff key yet. Just today got the flywheel pulled.

And the starting issues are based on the starter not turning the engine over. This is probably due to the weak batter (new 240 cca battery coming as a guarantee) and high compression.
 
Let's get the credits organized. It was Jakobi who called out the flywheel keyway. This will have a significant influence on ignition timing. I was mentioning the stator plate location relative to the oval washer stamped with "T".

If the oval washer is modified, the stator plate can be advanced or retarded. Since the trigger (impulse coil) is mounted to the plate, any movement of the plate also throws off the timing.
 

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Haha, well I wasn't going to say anything, but seeing as you mentioned credits, check post #10...

Davehuge said:
I guess there is a woodruff key in the end of the crankshaft to locate the flywheel and fix the ignition timing, could the key have sheared or be missing, allowing the timing to slip?
Click to expand...

I guess if I pointed my finger at enough things, then I would be correct on at least one! There's method in my madness! ;)

Anyway, the important thing is you've found the problem...I hope your dealer/GasGas will be paying for the flywheel puller! :rolleyes:

Hope you're able to get out and enjoy your new bike very soon, it's a real shame you've had this problem, you've been very unlucky. But...look on the bright side...I guess you've learn't a lot about your engine! :D
 
A quick recap on this.

Got the Woodruff key and new battery from importer.

Installed both.

The result is a bike that now starts very nicely with kickstarter and also runs totally differently than before. No kick back at start, no stalling, nice torque and no vibrations. Finally I have a bike that is living up with the reputation of a 300 2-stroke.

So all the problems of the bike were due to the rotation of the flywheel and too much advance in ignition.

The battery didn?t do any magic with the electric starter, still useless (does not turn the engine even one revolution). But anyway I can ride the bike🤟

P.s. There is a small return favour in the sticky maintenance manual thread...
 
I am glad you got it sorted. Being an old grandpa I still learn new things every day.
Concerning the starter, give it some time, use it only when the engine is fully warmed up. It sounds weird but it gets better after the first 30 to 40 hours. The cinstruction of the gears, especially those under the small cover is, lets say it friendly, not the best...
 
All is well that ends well.

Got a new starter from the importer and now the engine practically explodes running.

The old starter never started the bike like this, even when brand new. And after some hours of trying it just died.

So now I finally have the bike that I put the money on the table for.

Me so happy :D
 
Hello All,

Thanks for all the very useful information sharing throughout this forum!

I have an 2018 300 GP just clocked over 18 hours, besides the E-start only working a handful of times when warm the bike handles amazing and makes awesome power. Now after doing the second oil change (to Motorex Gear oil 10-30 from Castrol Power 1 Racing 5-40), the bike is not idling as well as it used to and is giving the odd kick-back when kickstarting. After a rev of the engine as it returns to idle it sounds like it is "hunting" and the idle is not high enough to keep it running without revving it plus it does not rev as crisp of idle. 2 days before it was running perfectly.

It still seems to be running fine on the track wide open but you do notice the hunting on decel into corners.

Any ideas on what might be the cause here?

Air filter was on the dirtier side but no signs of anything making it through.

Any thoughts would be hugely appreciated.
 
Changing the gearbox oil wouldn't cause the problems you've explained.

Try the simple solutions first, try a new spark plug.

Also could be caused by a small blockage in the carb, for example debris blocking the tiny orifice of the pilot jet.

However, I'm wondering if your ignition timing has slipped, that could cause the issues you're having.

If you read back through this thread you'll see Undertow's ignition timing slipped because the woodruff key had sheared, the woodruff key locates the flywheel on the crankshaft and together with the position of the stator plate, sets the ignition timing.

His bike was also a 2018 model. If the nut securing the flywheel was not tightened/torqued correctly it could allow the flywheel to rotate on the crank and shear the key.

Shouldn't jump to conclusions but there's a possibility there's a batch of bikes with this issue caused by a problem on the assembly line, for example if an assembly worker's torque wrench was faulty, not set correctly or he picked up the wrong torque wrench.

Let us know how you get on.

All the best, Dave.
 
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Hi Dave,

Thanks for your thoughts here. Yeh I was trying to imagine any possible way oil could effect this but also didn?t think it was possible.

Today I took the carby off, bowl off and cleaned it. There were no deposits that I could see anywhere but I did not have a the perfect sized flathead screwdriver to take the pilot jet out so just sprayed carby in there.

I went and tested the bike this afternoon and the issue remains. Didn?t seem to be kicking back at all but it was still hunting on decel.

One thing I did notice was the engine side boot hose clamp doesn?t seem to do up particularly tight. Could be an air leak. Next thing I will try is the air screw, and spraying some brake cleaner around that boot. Then I?ll have to get back in and get the pesky pilot jet to make sure it is not blocked.
 
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