2stroke oil- full,semi or neither

D

damo18

New member
Hi guys, I have just got back in the 2 strike game by purchasing a 2012 gas gas 300r and I need to get up too speed with oil. The advantage of full synthetic in my eyes is over ruled by the cost. Can these machines run properly and keep engin ware down on semi or less 2 stroke oil?

The only mod the bike has is a power valve port block, is there any other mods that are easy and cost effective

Also where is the mapping switch supposed to go, mine is on a radiator hoses?
Thanks in advance for the advice
 
Damo18,
Can't really help with the oil question as I have always used the recommended.. However on my 2012 I moved the mapping switch up onto the handle bars. Was much easier to switch when needed but I did find that occasionally I would switch it accidentally..
Josh
 
I have found my bike runs better (at least according to my ear) with motul 710. Wear is good. It doesn't answer your questions as it runs worse with motul 800 (and other fully synthetic oils) which is higher quality. I would suggest just using (and jetting accordingly) the oil that is easiest to find near you and stick with it

I have my switch on the handlebars as well, but honestly hardly ever use it so it might as well be on the radiator hose

PV spacer is probably my best mod, especially for hard enduro
 
If you're in the UK, exol fully synth is dirt cheap. I run it at 32:1, no problems at all!

Every study ever conducted has shown that more oil is better than less, but more expensive oil. Only problem is your jetting will have to be spot on!
 
reply

thanks guys.

With the mapping switch, is there enough cabling to move to the handle bars with out added to the length of cable?
 
reply

Can I ask is there anyone out there who does use a semi-synethetic 2T oil and is liking it?

thanks
 
Who cares how the oil is made, as long it meets the recommend specs from Gasgas.
I use only Motul 800, but I run it in my 125 and 144. In a 250 or 300 I would use a oil with a lower flame point like the Motul 710.
I run my motors with 1:50 to 1:60


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You have raised an interesting point. When using a good quality synthetic oil you have piece of mind that you can go a bit lean at times (hopefully) without dire consequences
With a low spec oil you will prob want to make sure your jetting is correct
 
swazi_matt said:
You have raised an interesting point. When using a good quality synthetic oil you have piece of mind that you can go a bit lean at times (hopefully) without dire consequences
With a low spec oil you will prob want to make sure your jetting is correct
Click to expand...



When you compare the specs from all the big manufacturers, they recommend 1:32 on mineral oil and 1:50 or 1:60 ob fully synthetic oil.
I honestly never spend a thought on using mineral oil instead of the fully synthetic racing oil motul 800.


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It takes more mineral oil in your fuel mix to give the same protection as synthetic so you don't necessarily save money by using a non-synthetic. My personal guide for mixing fuel is at 36/1 for mineral oil(Yammalube), 43/1 for semi-synthetic(Klotz), and 60/1 for full synthetic(Amsoil Dominator or Intercepter). In the 300 gasser the oils flashpoint is very important if you like to lug the bike or ride tight technical terrain. Chose an oil with a flashpoint below 100 degrees centigrade (210 fahrenheit). You can research a specific oil online to find it's flashpoint under technical details. A high flashpoint oil like Motul 800 will load up your engine and exhaust and cause it to run crappy at best or foul plugs at worst.
 
gasser said:
It takes more mineral oil in your fuel mix to give the same protection as synthetic so you don't necessarily save money by using a non-synthetic. My personal guide for mixing fuel is at 36/1 for mineral oil(Yammalube), 43/1 for semi-synthetic(Klotz), and 60/1 for full synthetic(Amsoil Dominator or Intercepter). In the 300 gasser the oils flashpoint is very important if you like to lug the bike or ride tight technical terrain. Chose an oil with a flashpoint below 100 degrees centigrade (210 fahrenheit). You can research a specific oil online to find it's flashpoint under technical details. A high flashpoint oil like Motul 800 will load up your engine and exhaust and cause it to run crappy at best or foul plugs at worst.
Click to expand...
And this is why I prefer the 710 (just didn’t know it)
 
No it doesn't ;)

Quantity of oil is as important as quality. Remember that it serves to provide a barrier between the piston and bore, by way of oil film, the only way that is achievable is by having a decent quantity of oil, the quality determines how quickly it breaks down and how clean it burns.

What is on the cylinder will be scraped off by the rings on the next stroke. Oil does not magically seep into the nikasil and pop back out when the rings have passed it.

Once again, many dyno runs have proven more oil is better, it reduces friction and promotes better ring sealing.

If your bike starts smoking like a pig at 32:1, then you need to look at your jetting. Fact.

I have no loading up issues in the woods and my bike gets its neck wrung at the Motocross track. Barely any ring wear after 2 years riding between 5-10 hours a week. And bugger all smoke when warm.
 
motopsycho87 said:
No it doesn't ;)

Quantity of oil is as important as quality. Remember that it serves to provide a barrier between the piston and bore, by way of oil film, the only way that is achievable is by having a decent quantity of oil, the quality determines how quickly it breaks down and how clean it burns.

What is on the cylinder will be scraped off by the rings on the next stroke. Oil does not magically seep into the nikasil and pop back out when the rings have passed it.

Once again, many dyno runs have proven more oil is better, it reduces friction and promotes better ring sealing.

If your bike starts smoking like a pig at 32:1, then you need to look at your jetting. Fact.

I have no loading up issues in the woods and my bike gets its neck wrung at the Motocross track. Barely any ring wear after 2 years riding between 5-10 hours a week. And bugger all smoke when warm.
Click to expand...

I bet if you were to come ride with me in the hills of Tennessee we could get your bike to smoke like a pig too if you run Motul 800 in a 300 2stroke no matter how well it's jetted. We have very rocky, technical hill climbs that will load up a bike thats burning a high flashpoint oil. Tennessee and much of the rest of the world has much steeper and rockier terrain than England (I lived there for 2 years). There is a multitude of good options for 2stroke oils and all seem to do a good job of protecting the motor if used properly which means enough oil for a given operating temperature. The required amount of oil can vary dramatically and is determined by the makeup of the oil - that's why oil companies put a maximum mix ratio on their oils. Just because the KTM or GasGas factory use a full synthetic at 60/1 or 50/1 ratio doesn't mean we can safely do the same with a mineral oil. I have years of experience running a semi-synthetic at 43/1 ratio (Klotz and Champion Water pumper), full synthetic at 50-60/1 (Amsoil Dominator and Intercepter, Motul 710), and even full synthetics designed for 100/1 ratio (Amsoil Saber which I ran at 80/1 in my 300 and 75/1 in my 250). I can't tell any difference in power or how well the engine wears.
 
2cents worth-I guess im old school but when people speak of 1:60 up to 1:100 oil ratios i think "hand grenade"
Id rather live with a little spooge (assuming jetting is close,it means some oil is unburnt upon leaving the engine...not that there is too much oil in the mix).
If there is no spooge at all then 100% of oil has combusted.Ash is a poor lubricant...
40:1 full synth a little spooge,no worrys
Very high flashpoint synth such as belray h1r are best for wot/mx applications,they will spooge more even if your jetting is perfect if you ride tight and technical.
Some lower flashpoint oils will also leave more residue on the plug (my own observation only)
I like castrol power1 tts @40:1 for "a bit of everything" riding.
Disclaimer,i dont have an engineering degree,but i read/research a lot,and have a decent amount of exp from chainsaws to tractors.LOL a kiwi has spoken!
 
2stroke oil

I have run klotz r50 40:1 great. little spooge no big deal great film on internals when doing top ends
 
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