Hi. I SUCK at electronics but I have a question. is it possible to simply and cheaply convert ac to dc? If i understand correctly, the 12 volt regulator on the frame is for electronics only and not spark related. Wouldnt it be possible to change that out for a 12 volt ac-dc converter and be done?
AC-DC Simple??
- Thread starter Noobi06
- Start date
For lightning and display, especially display
This is a question of how good your wiring skills are. The simplest method is to install a rectifier without changing any stator connections. The rectifier output is ONLY connected to the devices you want to power. These devices will receive DC power and are NOT grounded to the frame. So the real issue is "can you isolate all the lights etc. from ground"?
This is why lifting the ground point at the stator is done. It allows all devices to be grounded. So ungrounded AC voltage feeds the regulator input only. Then everthing else is grounded. This will provide efficient full wave DC power. If you keep both sides grounded, you will only get half wave rectification. It produces a lumpy DC output that is good enough for battery charging (the battery load averages out the oscillatiion).
The original GG setup is to run all lighting on AC voltage with only a regulator in the system.
This is why lifting the ground point at the stator is done. It allows all devices to be grounded. So ungrounded AC voltage feeds the regulator input only. Then everthing else is grounded. This will provide efficient full wave DC power. If you keep both sides grounded, you will only get half wave rectification. It produces a lumpy DC output that is good enough for battery charging (the battery load averages out the oscillatiion).
The original GG setup is to run all lighting on AC voltage with only a regulator in the system.
Can I lift the ground and doing stator stuff without having a battery?
What F5 is describing is leaving the stator grounded with lights on AC. Cheapo rectifier to get DC for specific devices which are not grounded. I've never used a capacitor instead of a battery, but it will work. You are asking about isolating the stator and not having a battery. This should be OK.
Keep in mind that battery charging needs extra voltage. This is done with the white wire. Bottom end of the stock stator is grounded. All the lighting windings are in series. The yellow wire taps off most of the way up the windings. The white wire is at the top of the windings for maximum voltage output. Without a battery you do not need the white wire. Leave it totally unconnected. Hook your rectifier input to the yellow wire and the bottom of the windings which have been lifted (unsoldered) from ground. Solder a new wire to this lifted ground (any color is fine, yellow would be good). Make sure the new connection point is protected with heatshrink. This takes care of the rectifier input.
Now the rectifier output (black?) connects to the frame as your new DC ground. The other rectifier output wire (red?) which is DC positive goes to a fuse and then to your devices (lights, etc.).
Keep in mind that battery charging needs extra voltage. This is done with the white wire. Bottom end of the stock stator is grounded. All the lighting windings are in series. The yellow wire taps off most of the way up the windings. The white wire is at the top of the windings for maximum voltage output. Without a battery you do not need the white wire. Leave it totally unconnected. Hook your rectifier input to the yellow wire and the bottom of the windings which have been lifted (unsoldered) from ground. Solder a new wire to this lifted ground (any color is fine, yellow would be good). Make sure the new connection point is protected with heatshrink. This takes care of the rectifier input.
Now the rectifier output (black?) connects to the frame as your new DC ground. The other rectifier output wire (red?) which is DC positive goes to a fuse and then to your devices (lights, etc.).
(F5)
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A battery or Capacitor (say 25v 2200uF) smooths the supply voltage. Absolutely essential for many electronic devices.
CR250 for example use thus setup. I've bith used and copied it on road racebikes running programmable ignitech ignition. They let out the smoke if you don't have a Capacitor (or battery) apparently.
CR250 for example use thus setup. I've bith used and copied it on road racebikes running programmable ignitech ignition. They let out the smoke if you don't have a Capacitor (or battery) apparently.
Thanks to everyone for the replies. I am really really bad at electronics so I think im just going to use a dc converter for the display or something. If it doesnt work, I might just follow these instructions and change the whole system to dc.
Would be cool to convert though since all new lightnings, blinkers etc that are led are dc
