Basic setup Sachs/Sachs
- Thread starter drn51
- Start date
swazi_matt
Active member
Fiddle with clickers play with sag and ride the rocks and experience the deflection, pain and blisters then contact twowheels on the forum, get him to revalve the midvalve and when you hit the rocks again the $100 you spent on the revalve will be justified and referee to as pocket change
At 80kg you may require slightly stiffer springs but even With the stock springs you will be ok
And I am saying this from personal experience
At 80kg you may require slightly stiffer springs but even With the stock springs you will be ok
And I am saying this from personal experience
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I ran my 2010 EC300R Sachs with the stock valving. They might have different valving to what your 2011 has though as it was a race model and all indicaitons point to that. It was stiff.
From what I can remember I changed the Air gap to 135mm when I did the oil. This let me use some more of the stroke but I still to this day have been unable to bottom them.
Compression: 16 out
Rebound: 8 out
It was an improvement and very ridable, but much like the stock valving worked best when ploughing into things. What it wouldn't do well is rock gardens. I'd talk to someone re a revalve. Pleanty of tuners here who can make these forks work well and prefer them over the 45mm zokes. Also respring for your weight.
From what I can remember I changed the Air gap to 135mm when I did the oil. This let me use some more of the stroke but I still to this day have been unable to bottom them.
Compression: 16 out
Rebound: 8 out
It was an improvement and very ridable, but much like the stock valving worked best when ploughing into things. What it wouldn't do well is rock gardens. I'd talk to someone re a revalve. Pleanty of tuners here who can make these forks work well and prefer them over the 45mm zokes. Also respring for your weight.
andoman
New member
A revalve was a must for me, too.
The shock is doable, but the harsh fork masked so much that I could never really get the rear dialed in.
Biggest problem with the fork is that when I got the compression as soft as it would go (still not tolerable...) it would settle into the mid-stroke where it was super harsh over the small stuff. If I were going down hill and had to use the front brake, it got so harsh it deflected the front end out of control. With most of the rebound damping in and most of the compression damping out, it was actually quite good in the low-speed action (whoops, g-outs, drop offs). But anything requiring high speed damping was like having no forks at all.
Les at LTR (get well, friend!) revalved both ends and it is now fantastic!
The shock is doable, but the harsh fork masked so much that I could never really get the rear dialed in.
Biggest problem with the fork is that when I got the compression as soft as it would go (still not tolerable...) it would settle into the mid-stroke where it was super harsh over the small stuff. If I were going down hill and had to use the front brake, it got so harsh it deflected the front end out of control. With most of the rebound damping in and most of the compression damping out, it was actually quite good in the low-speed action (whoops, g-outs, drop offs). But anything requiring high speed damping was like having no forks at all.
Les at LTR (get well, friend!) revalved both ends and it is now fantastic!
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Exactly what I found. FFW I weigh 75kgs nudey.
Simmo737
Gold Level Site Supporter
Just about exactly my experience.
If you are a machinist and can find shims with 7mm id (hard to), do what synergy seals says.
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11765
If you aren't , ths will make it better, as long as you are capable of pulling the base valve out and apart.
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10328&highlight=Sachs
Or just send them to two wheels, he can make the work.
You won't fix it with clickers, it's set up for Spanish desert enduro mx tests
