Beast!

[gasgasxc]

Depending on weight and skill in 70% of conditions you should be able to rail on the 200 eventually.The 250 is the killer in the Gas Gas lineup.Most guys are faster on the 200 and 250 then the 300.1 out of 5 300 riders can ride the 300 for all its worth.

The powervalved 250 exterminated the AMA 500 class because lap timed on the 250s were faster.In the 500s last years even the 125s were putting a beating on them.The big bore is for the most part a Big Boy bike.Sorry.But that's the truth.

 

[gasgasxc]

I agree with most in here that the 200 is a bit underpowered.
But every Gas Gas I've bought over the years has had mods.
Most of the early Gas Gas enduros were bought by racers and fast guys who set them up.

You can't even compare an early Gasser to a KTM of the same era.
The Gasser beats it everywhere.As far as mods go.The Gasser engine is by far superior to build into a weapon then the KTMs.The mods for Gasser weren't just for show.

 

[Jakobi]

One other thing you may wish to check is the PV that it is actually functioning properly. When my PV jammed open it ran very poorly off the bottom (as expected), however also sounded like the bottom end was about to let go.

You've got a bit to work with and investigate by any means.

 

[12Bravo]

Update:

Fixed the seal, for now.

The front sprocket is 12T rear is 48T, so what does this mean?

If I went to a larger front say 13T and a larger Rear say 50T what would happen?
Is this 12/48 mainly a track set up, would that explain the hold on snappy I was talking about?

Thanks

 

[nknudsen]

Update:

Fixed the seal, for now.

The front sprocket is 12T rear is 48T, so what does this mean?

If I went to a larger front say 13T and a larger Rear say 50T what would happen?
Is this 12/48 mainly a track set up, would that explain the hold on snappy I was talking about?

Thanks

Just divide the rear sprocket tooth # by the front sprocket # to more easily compare ratios. Think of it like a vehicle axle ratio, a 4.10 will be snappier but slower than a faster 3.08 It's easy enough to throw a 13 on the front and see what you think.
12 / 48 combo = 4.0
13 / 50 combo = 3.85
13 / 48 combo = 3.69

 

[12Bravo]

Just divide the rear sprocket tooth # by the front sprocket # to more easily compare ratios. Think of it like a vehicle axle ratio, a 4.10 will be snappier but slower than a faster 3.08 It's easy enough to throw a 13 on the front and see what you think.
12 / 48 combo = 4.0
13 / 50 combo = 3.85
13 / 48 combo = 3.69

Thanks,

I think I will try a 13 on the front and see what happens. If anything, I may not like it and just put the 12 back on.

That would put me at 3.69 this would give me a base at 4.0 to go off of in the future.

 

[barossi73]

Stock 200 gearing is 13/50.Cant confirm,but have heard that running a 12front chews out your chain slider faster.if you put a 13 on front with your 48 your gears will all be a little longer(higher max speed,gears spread further apart)
This will make the hit feel a little softer,but makes the jump to each gear a little wider(this can be a nuisance as it can make your 1st gear a little fast for very tight work,and also on a long hillclimb you may have to sit a gear lower,as the jump up to the next gear may be too wide to get up on the power)
If you ride faster,more open terrain it wont be a problem unless youve geared it so high it wont pull top gear
A 13t front will prob be around $20,have a close look at your chain slider for wear from the 12t when you change it out

 

[Zman]

Lots of good info provided already. Does it look like it has several gaskets or a thick gasket under the cylinder? The previous owner could have focused on high rpm power band. One way to do that is to push the cylinder higher.

You mentioned it either stalls or takes off. Does it idle ok? To build on what others have said, the pilot jet or slide cut away could be way off and you are feeling a transition from a rich mixture to a proper mixture and that will enhance the feel of the "hit".

If you open your ignition cover do you see oil or smell gas? Does your trans oil smell like gas? Either will point you toward bad crank seals. The older bikes used seals that were not compatible with fuels with high levels of alcohol and fail. This will also mess with your AF mixture and can result in odd operation like you are experiencing.

 

[12Bravo]

Ok, after re-read this post and seeing where I am with this bike. This is what I have come up with, correct me if I am wrong or am going in the wrong direction.

Bike is running rich in the lower RPM range.
Having lots of spooge is caused from running rich or having higher flashpoint oil, mine is a 175 degree F oil, leads me to think again I am running rich.

I pulled the needle and I have "N1EC" on the 3rd Clip, which is into the rich area, right?

I pulled the pilot jet, I think, the one that is straight under the drain cap and uses a 6mm socket to get out. There is NO marking on it, at ALL, nothing. Just a brass thingy...lol.

SO, I have no clue what my jet is, I know the needle is on a rich setting.

Should I just move the clip up one or two and see how it runs? Or, pull the jet, replace with a marked on and get a baseline from there?

 

[12Bravo]

Lots of good info provided already. Does it look like it has several gaskets or a thick gasket under the cylinder? The previous owner could have focused on high rpm power band. One way to do that is to push the cylinder higher.

You mentioned it either stalls or takes off. Does it idle ok? To build on what others have said, the pilot jet or slide cut away could be way off and you are feeling a transition from a rich mixture to a proper mixture and that will enhance the feel of the "hit".

If you open your ignition cover do you see oil or smell gas? Does your trans oil smell like gas? Either will point you toward bad crank seals. The older bikes used seals that were not compatible with fuels with high levels of alcohol and fail. This will also mess with your AF mixture and can result in odd operation like you are experiencing.

It looks like it has one regular gasket under the cylinder.

 

[JP4]

Ok, after re-read this post and seeing where I am with this bike. This is what I have come up with, correct me if I am wrong or am going in the wrong direction.

Bike is running rich in the lower RPM range.
Having lots of spooge is caused from running rich or having higher flashpoint oil, mine is a 175 degree F oil, leads me to think again I am running rich.

I pulled the needle and I have "N1EC" on the 3rd Clip, which is into the rich area, right?

I pulled the pilot jet, I think, the one that is straight under the drain cap and uses a 6mm socket to get out. There is NO marking on it, at ALL, nothing. Just a brass thingy...lol.

SO, I have no clue what my jet is, I know the needle is on a rich setting.

Should I just move the clip up one or two and see how it runs? Or, pull the jet, replace with a marked on and get a baseline from there?

You need to figure out what jets are in the carb before doing much of anything else. You've identified the needle and clip position, now you need to determine the main and pilot jets.

The main jet is the stubby little hexagonal 6mm brass that you removed. Look closely, there will be a number stamped on it, likely something between 165 and 180. The pilot jet is next door to the the main in a recessed circular pocket. It is removed by turning anti-clockwise using a narrow flat blade screwdriver. They look like this: https://www.google.ca/search?q=pictures&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=653&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMI9MjI__e4yAIVwhY-Ch1xAAXf#tbm=isch&q=40+kehien+pilot+jet&imgrc=2SUE443RMtNjxM%3A It too will be stamped with a number, something between 35 and 45 I would imagine.

Keep digging ... good luck man ... it's all a learning experience.

 

[12Bravo]

You need to figure out what jets are in the carb before doing much of anything else. You've identified the needle and clip position, now you need to determine the main and pilot jets.

The main jet is the stubby little hexagonal 6mm brass that you removed. Look closely, there will be a number stamped on it, likely something between 165 and 180. The pilot jet is next door to the the main in a recessed circular pocket. It is removed by turning anti-clockwise using a narrow flat blade screwdriver. They look like this: https://www.google.ca/search?q=pictures&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=653&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMI9MjI__e4yAIVwhY-Ch1xAAXf#tbm=isch&q=40+kehien+pilot+jet&imgrc=2SUE443RMtNjxM%3A It too will be stamped with a number, something between 35 and 45 I would imagine.

Keep digging ... good luck man ... it's all a learning experience.

I didn't pull the pilot jet, but I did pull the main jet. There is nothing on it, literally, I took a magnifying class and there is nothing on it!

Do I need to remove the bottom pan to get the pilot jet out? Main was easy, just pull the plug.

One thing I did do just to see what it would do, maybe a big mistake, but I did it. Moved the clip up to number one position. Put it all back together adjusted the idle screw to 1.5 out and the ASO to 2 out. Started the bike and it bogged out. Adjusted the ASO to 1.5 out and left the Idle screw alone, perfect! Idles good and will even idle in gear now. One thing I noticed was the throttle response, when the ASO was at 2 out, blipping the throttle bogged. Adjusted to 1.5 out and now it has good response. Will know tomorrow how it does in the field, raining right now.

Will be pulling the plug to see what it looks like, it was new and only has maybe 1.5 hours on it. Might stop and get another to have a fresh start to see how lean or rich it is running.

I will dig deeper in the pilot jet and main jet tomorrow. But the main has no markings at all, I have a really good once over with glass and NOTHING is on it.

 

[JP4]

All jets have a number stamped on them. If you don't know what main you have, replace with the factory recommended stock number. You need to know what you're working with.

You will need to remove the bowl (bottom of carb) to remove the pilot jet on an AS1 (Air Striker 1) carb.

By raising the clip to the top position on the needle you have leaned it out. Turning in the airscrew richens the idle circuit - that's the only area it has an affect on.

I'm no jetting expert, but you want to start from a relatively neutral setting and then adjust one circuit at a time, starting with the idle circuit (pilot jet and airscrew) and then go up from there.

Once you know what jets you have, try clip 2 or 3 on the needle and see if you can get a good idle with the A/S between 1.5 and 2.5 turns out, without having to screw the idle screw way in - the spring is not all bound up. If you can achieve that, your pilot is good. If you can't, but it gets better as the airscrew is turned in, you need a richer pilot. If it gets better as it is turned out, you need a leaner pilot.

Once you got that sorted, you can move on to the needle and main.

And remember, when jetting, the bike must be at operating temps, and you can't just make changes and then whack the throttle to see what the effect is. Adjust the A/S in 1/4 turns, do a lap around the lawn, and see what's changed. Same for the needle and clip. Main is a little different. Only change one thing at a time, and be patient.

 

[gasgasxc]

The jet was drilled.
The bike has probably been modified to some degree and jetted to precision for climate and elevation.A good shop should get you a ballpark on the main.

So many variables at work here.You need to find some guys that ride with a good turner in the bunch.A shop really can't help you on this one.You jet the bike where you ride the bike.Not down the alley behind a bike shop.