Bogging and top end

Capz85

New member
Bogging at top end

Took my bike out for the first time last week with the supermoto setup on,noticed at the top end it was reluctant to rev out all the way sort of bogging and not getting to the power valve, I noticed I had it on reserve so I put it back to on and it sort of cleared,stopped for a while and went again and it was doing it again, I'm thinking that the jetting or powervalve need some adjustments,as it will be used on the road I'm looking for ways to make it scream at the top,got a fresco "big one" on order, was looking at maybe adding a larger main and dropping the needle.

Anyone experience similar ?
 
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Took my bike out for the first time last week with the supermoto setup on,noticed at the top end it was reluctant to rev out all the way sort of bogging and not getting to the power valve, I noticed I had it on reserve so I put it back to on and it sort of cleared,stopped for a while and went again and it was doing it again, I'm thinking that the jetting or powervalve need some adjustments,as it will be used on the road I'm looking for ways to make it scream at the top,got a fresco "big one" on order, was looking at maybe adding a larger main and dropping the needle.

Anyone experience similar ?
Which year, engine cc, carb, pipe, current jetting specs?
 
2011 ec300 standard at the min, will be using a fresco big one pipe with the fmf may chop it down

It's got a 40 pilot and 175 main N1EF needle #3
 
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Ha right I'll get rid of that then, are the jd red needles any good I heard they are good with a different exhaust and bigger main or the N1EG
 
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my GG started losing power up top bad and wouldn't rev out.
after checking the obvious, nothing changed.
then dumped the high test gas and ran race fuel[again]
problem solved
maybe the oxygenated gas?
idk
 
my GG started losing power up top bad and wouldn't rev out.

after checking the obvious, nothing changed.

then dumped the high test gas and ran race fuel[again]

problem solved

maybe the oxygenated gas?

idk


Sounds like it was waaay too lean. Race gas leans an engine out. If you were already on the lean side with pump gas then went to race gas you were on the verge of doing damage.


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Ha right I'll get rid of that then, are the jd red needles any good I heard they are good with a different exhaust and bigger main or the N1EG


Guys on here really like the nedw or nedj needles or the n3 series. I run the nedw and it is very linear and smooth power. The n3 provides a harder hit


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
can you expand on the "N3" needles please?
N3 __ ? what are the last 2 digits or numbers that work well?
Thks. Cactus reid
 
N3E_ is half a clip richer than N3C_
The last spacer is the diameter. It couples with the pilot, the slide cutaway, the air screw, the slide height, and the float level. Different reeds, engine setups, carb models also impact this off idle area more than others.

Safe starting point is old AS1 carbs like an F/G diameter, the newer AS2 prefer W/J
 
Guys on here really like the nedw or nedj needles or the n3 series. I run the nedw and it is very linear and smooth power. The n3 provides a harder hit


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'll 2nd that. N3cj is really nice.

Nedw felt too smooth, I like that hit.
 
So can you recommend me a good needle, like I said I will be on the road, looking for more top end and a big hit and big grin factor:D
 
Sounds like it was waaay too lean. Race gas leans an engine out. If you were already on the lean side with pump gas then went to race gas you were on the verge of doing damage.

the jetting is fine, per the plug, per the top end, per the temp,etc.
I think its that the pump gas has some weird additives that just don't burn right
I appreciate the reply
 
I have a question about the slide cutaway....I don't have one also
I have the n3 needle on order, currently got 40 and 175 in would I need a larger pilot if I put a 180 main in or is it too much
 
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