Brake line issue

[singletracker]

When I bought my bike the brake line was free to slide up and down in the fork tube guard clamp, but I thought that was strange so I put a rubber tube around it to take up the slack and tighten it up. That may have been a mistake, but I did it because my Watchdog odometer cable wasn't free to move, and I had them ziptied together.

The problem is that my brake line keeps getting kinked into an S shape and I'm afraid that it is going to break. I think it may be because of the way I had the Watchdog cable connected to the brake line and it didn't allow the brake line to move enough so it kinked.

Sorry for the long post, but I'm curious how others are mounted, and what I should do different. I'd appreciate any feed back that I get.

Thanks

 

[andoman]

Are you talking about the clamp on the fork leg protector?
It should be tight there. It should move freely up and down in the guide behind the number plate.
FWIW, I moved said guide to the left front of my number plate (as viewed from the saddle). Puts a slight forward "lift" of the fork guide via the brake line as the fork compresses. Thus keeping the guide from rubbing on my upper fork tube.

 

[singletracker]

Yes, it's the clamp on the fork leg protector.

 

[Jakobi]

It'll be binding behind the headlight or jagging on a guide. Its meant to be fixed to the fork cover as this stays still relative to the lower fork and the brake. Its the whole lot that moves up when the fork compresses. If its binding on something up top it will then buckle/bow out.

 

[socalgasgas]

If it bowing out between the clamp and bottom of the fork the brake line is still moving inside the tube you added. They side down very easy if not nice and tight but back up not so much. Get the right size clamp or make your own and get rid of tube you added.

 

[singletracker]

Pictures

Here these pictures should help. I'm pretty sure the problem started when I wrapped the watchdog cable around the brake line to keep the WD cable from getting kinked. I noticed that Chilly had his routed that way so I thought I would try it. I don't think it allowed the brake cable to move up and down freely enough.

 

[singletracker]

Forgive my bike for being such a mess. We raced a 90 mile enduro yesterday, and I haven't had time to wash it yet. BTW, we took first place in the Senior B class. Woo Hoo!

 

[Jakobi]

I'm betting the tape you've used to link the two cables together are jagging on the guide behind the light as the suspension compresses. It might not do it every time, but it only has to catch every now and then to jag the cables out of shape. Tape them down lower and then tape them up higher above the headlight and let the guide do its job in the middle.

 

[singletracker]

I'm betting the tape you've used to link the two cables together are jagging on the guide behind the light as the suspension compresses. It might not do it every time, but it only has to catch every now and then to jag the cables out of shape. Tape them down lower and then tape them up higher above the headlight and let the guide do its job in the middle.

I can see your point, but this happened before I put the tape on it. I didn't use zipties up high for the very reason that you stated, but after the cable got bent I started experimenting with various ways to route the WD cable, and the latest thing I did was tape it. At this point it is bent so bad that even if I straighten the cable a little it won't take much to bend it again. I think a new brake line is in order, but I don't want the same thing to happen again.

 

[Jakobi]

Hmm I hear ya. Any chance you can get a big fat mate to bounce on it and see whats going on?

 

[swazi_matt]

I had a similar issue, what you need to do is slide the protective cover/tube down th e brake line (may take some effort) until it reaches the clamp on the fork protector then u sorted

 

[Jakobi]

That makes sense. Comparing yours to mine, there is definitely more cable showing between the mount and the top of the fork guard.

 

[singletracker]

I really don't think that it is getting hung up on anything at the moment. I'm nearly certain that it has to do with wrapping the WD cable around the brake line at the peak of the cable, which didn't allow the brake cable enough movement. Now it is weak and prebent, so the only fix is a new cable and being more careful with routing the WD cable next time.

 

[GMP]

I've always run the sensor wires in another small poly or Nylon tube, taped parallel to the brake line. The ICO sensors come that way or at least they used to. Where the line flexes at the top is where the wires are broken out and shrink wrapped as not to limit the flex of the brake line. It just functions as a low wear guide for the wires just like the tube over the brake line.

 

[andoman]

Capture the Sleeve

I've always run the sensor wires in another small poly or Nylon tube, taped parallel to the brake line. The ICO sensors come that way or at least they used to. Where the line flexes at the top is where the wires are broken out and shrink wrapped as not to limit the flex of the brake line. It just functions as a low wear guide for the wires just like the tube over the brake line.

Slide your sleeve down your line to the clamp on the fork protector. Capture it with a rubber ferrule (like stock) or some tape. NO un-sleeved brake line should be above the fork-protector, except for a foot or so between the top of the sleeve arcing over to brake master cylinder.
Here is a pix of the stock rubber ferrule that captures the nylon sleeve. The stepped down dia. at the bottom is captured in the clamp on the fork protector.
(Obviously, my forks are off the bike: re-valve.)

 

[singletracker]

Thanks guys. I think I'll pull the plastic sheathing down and clamp it in the fork guard clamp. The rubber tip on the plastic sheathing isn't a reducer but I'm sure I can make it work. This should give the line the extra strength and protection that is needed, and I'll make sure that there isn't any hangups anywhere else.