Carb boot doesn't fit??

[95jersey]

I have been dealing with this poor fitting carb boot (between carb and reed cage) since I have bought the bike. No matter how I align everything it does not fit correctly.

Does a new part work better or is there any better fix?

 

[Jacob 'Berg]

I have been dealing with this poor fitting carb boot (between carb and reed cage) since I have bought the bike. No matter how I align everything it does not fit correctly.

Does a new part work better or is there any better fix?

What, specifically, is the fitment issue? It can be a little tricky getting the air boot, carb, and front boot to fit up properly on some of these bikes. I always start from the air box boot and work forward. I then attach the front boot to the carb, tighten this connection, and then pull the complete assembly forward, tightening the boot to the reed cage last.

If the front boot is worn, a replacement may be in order. It is cheap.

 

[95jersey]

What, specifically, is the fitment issue? It can be a little tricky getting the air boot, carb, and front boot to fit up properly on some of these bikes. I always start from the air box boot and work forward. I then attach the front boot to the carb, tighten this connection, and then pull the complete assembly forward, tightening the boot to the reed cage last.

If the front boot is worn, a replacement may be in order. It is cheap.

I tried these, had the bike apart and back together a dozen times and always a little misaligned. Looking to see if anyone else had similar issues or not. Boot is fine.

 

[cbutler]

I heat the air box boot before I even start putting it back together

 

[JP4]

I have not seen a +2010 GG with an airboot that mates to the carb cleanly.

I'm thinking that the airboot is a part from a previous airbox/frame configuration from way back that has been recycled on newer models. But it just doesn't fit. Not sure why they kept pushing them out like this? Either they had no money to fix the problem, or worse, they didn't know or care.

All I can say is use a heat gun, and twist and tweak as best you can, and try to ignore the gap on the exhaust side where the airboot joins the carb as best you can, and hope it doesn't leak. It's just ugly, and I could never get it right, even when the bike was new.

If they get it right the Torrot GG's are not going to have these sorts of issues.

 

[95jersey]

Here is a pic of the misalignment. Photo makes it looks worse than it is..

 

[95jersey]

Here is the boot I made from automotive hose. I cut it 1cm longer to make up for the gap.

 

[95jersey]

Here is the finished product. Now the carb is FIRM in place, doesn't move under engine load and seals tight.

 

[Neil E.]

What you have done is probably as good as it gets. Some bikes had a spacer on the reed cage that provided extra length. There has also been different reed cages (and probably blocks) over the years. Everyone has to use a heat gun to get the parts together. Some are much worse than others and no explanation has been determined.

The procedure seems to be:
1) Assemble carb to airbox boot plus carb to reed boot
2) Heat the heck out of the airbox boot
3) Force everything forward onto the reed cage spigot
4) Clamp in place

 

[Jakobi]

Watch that the airboot doesn't contact the rear of your shock near the top mount too. My 13 has been rubbing here and wearing at the shock. Doesn't seem to be an issue on the 14+ as the OD of the Reiger isn't as big as the Ohlins.

 

[gasser]

For my bike modifying the connection at the rear of the carb was a better way to go. I purchased a rubber plumbing connector from Lowes for less than $10. It was a perfect fit for the back of the carb on one end and just small enough to fit inside the airbox boot on the other. Now if I ever have to remove the sub frame or swing it up to get at the shock it is real easy to get the boot back on the carb.