Another newb question regarding removing the carburator. I've found that unbolting the subframe to be the easiet way to accomplish this. The bike is going on ten years old and the rubber boot doesn't seem to be very flexible, so I didn't have much luck with the subframe in the normal position. Is it generally possible to get the carb in and out without unbolting the subframe? If so it might be time to think about replacing the rubber boot, thanks Carl.
Carb Removal
- Thread starter carlg
- Start date
stainlesscycle
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if the intake boot is 10 years old, it's probably time to replace. better safe then sorry. a small crack can make for a very expensive rebuild..
i never loosen subframe.
if the airbox boot is still pliable, i jam a prybar between the frame and airbox boot and pull back . i find it's easier to pull out with carb top off and carb rotated 90 degrees. if both airbox boot and intake boot are hard as a rock, or if it's cold, it can be tough..
i never loosen subframe.
if the airbox boot is still pliable, i jam a prybar between the frame and airbox boot and pull back . i find it's easier to pull out with carb top off and carb rotated 90 degrees. if both airbox boot and intake boot are hard as a rock, or if it's cold, it can be tough..
pevs
New member
+1 a lot easier with heat from hair dryer
iancp5
New member
You can remove it with the subframe in place but it's tricky in my opinion. I tend to think it's easier to loosen the subframe rather than risk damaging something. Yes heat helps quite a bit. You know you can change all the jets and needle without removing it? You just loosen and rotate the carb as appropriate.
Thanks for all the replies. It would appear that this process is something that you wouldn't want to do out on the trail. I suppose it might be wise to check into replacing all of the rubber pieces on the intake tract just as a precaution. This whole topic came up due to the fact that I wanted to change the pilot jet. It's not accessable from the drain plug and I guess I wasn't comfortable removing the float bowl with the carb still on the bike. Nice to know that it does take a bit of work to get the carb removed.
iancp5
New member
No problem removing float bowl in place. Loosen the rubbers either side, rotate one way and remove top of carb with slide and needle attached. Rotate opposite way so float bowl is up above horizontal, 45 deg or something. Remove float bowl watching out for the little dowel that the float pivots on as it will just slide out, on the floor and roll off somewhere! Gently remove otherwise along with float and needle from needle valve. There you are access to pilot and main.
You may have to remove your chain guard or case saver - mine just needs loosening otherwise the carb just catches it when you rotate it.
After a few times you can do this in a couple of minutes.
skid jackson
New member
my ltr case guard gets in the way. Loosen that up and you get clutch fluid on the floor. However with both boot clamps lose I can bull dog the float bowl around it.
iancp5
New member
Clutch fluid? Sure it's not gearbox oil?
The slave should be a sealed unit. It doesn't matter if you get a few drips of gearbox oil leak. I have to loosen mine and it doesn't leak clutch fluid even if I take it right off.
GMP
Active member
The newer slaves ('07 +) do not have a retaining circlip that holds the piston in like the older bikes (up to '03 ??). If the slave is removed and the piston not retained, the spring will slowly eject it, and the fluid, on your garage floor. I found this out when installing a case saver on my '07.
skid jackson
New member
06+ ...........
